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1 

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m 

©RAND Trunk F^ailway 

AND THE 

pPIGHELlEy AND 0NTARI0 # 

NAVIGATION CO.'S STEAMERS 

IS THE 

GREAT PLEASURE ROUTE, 

OFFERING A MOST ATTRACTIVE SELECTIO N 
: OF POPULAR EXCURSIONS 



Via Niagara Falls, River St. Lawrence, with Thousand 
Islands and Rapids, Montreal, Quebec, River Sague- 
nay, Gulf Ports, Lower Provinces, Lake Champlain and 
Lake George, Saratoga, The White Mountains, Etc. 



Pullman Palace Sleeping- Cars will be attached to the evening- train 
from Suspension Bridge at 4:55 p. M., and Niag-ara Falls at 5:10 P. M., and 
will run through to Kingston Wharf, where passengers can remain in 
the car until the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Co.'s steamer 
arrives from Toronto, en route for Montreal and other eastern points. 

Daily Fast Express Train will also be run from Portland at 9:CK» a. m. 
to Toronto, Hamilton, Port Huron and Chicago, requiring 

ONE NIGHT ONLY 

on the road to any of these points. This is the only line reaching- the 
Muskoka Lake and Perrj- Sound districts. 

Tickets and information may be obtained at the principal ticket 
offices, also of the agents of the Grand Trunk Railway Company, from 
whom excursions and tourists' routes and rates of fare can be ol)tained. 



L. I. SEARGEANT. J. CHABOT, 

Gen'/ Man'gr G. T. R. Gen' I Man'gr R. b' O. N. Co. 

V^Wl. EDGAR, ALEX. MILLOY, 

Geir/ Pass. Agt. G. T. R. Traffic Man'gr. 



THE 



44 



Phat 6oy's'' 



18 Tears on the ^t Lawrence. 



THK REOPLK NIKX AND THH^ 



f\ * Ciijid(^ * for * JOGrists * j^ijd * JraUi^Ier^. 

m : TENTH EDITION. COPYRIGHTED, 1891. 



E. F. BABBAGE, Publisher. 

( ^ JUL 9 183-1 . 



ROCHESTER, N. Y. : 

DEMOCRAT AND CHRONICLE PRINT, 47 & 49 EAST MAIN STREET. 



C-N.C 




I 



THE ONLY DR. BABBAGE IN AMERICA. 

This is a picture of my Twin Brother, Dr. E. F. 
Babbage, of 8 1 E. Main St., Rochester, N. Y., the 
renowned speciaUst and inventor of Rheumatic Victor, 
sure specific for Rheumatism ; also Phat of Life, the 
great stomach, brain and nerve food. 



f 1 0G6 

3\^ 



INTRODUCTION. 



IN presenting this work, ''The Phat Boy's Eighteen 
Years on the St. Lawrence River," I am aware 
that financial or personal ends are always the para- 
mount object to-be attained by an individual who puts 
forth anything in this worl(j. I therefore plead guilty 
to the above charge, and for so doing propose to give 
to the tourist or traveler down this grandest of trips, a 
faithful description of every point of interest that 
meets the eye of the beholder. 

"The People I Have Met and the Things I Have 
Seen," is the outgrowth of the ten editions that have 
been issued by me and cheerfully received by the pub- 
lic. It is the only correct guide for the tourist or 
traveler down this majestic stream, as it is compiled 
from the thousand and one questions answered, that 
were asked me by parties who passed down the trip 
during my ten years of service as " Guide to the St. 
Lawrence." It is my honesty and good faith to state 
what prompted this issue. 

I feel capable of compiling a book which, although 
it does not contain any pictorial illustrations of the 
scenic beauty connected with the trip, I am confident 
that a plain, unvarnished description of all the various 



l'^aG^^-5"-/1/ 



points of interest would be sufficient. The tourist can 
thus feast the eye on a thousand pictures that a volume 
ten times this size could not contain, for no matter 
how often 5^ou open the eyes during the day, they will 
fall upon some delightful scene, where the God of 
Nature has smiled upon her, within an hour. Neither 
have I given a highly colored description of the Rapids ; 
they have been viewed and described by thousands, 
and the effect produced is as varied in character as the 
individual writers differed in temperament and looks. 

Trusting this volume may meet with as cheerful a 
greeting by the public as it has always accorded my 
efforts to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or 
lonesome traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its 
mission will have been accomplished. 
Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE, '' Phat Boy," 
Guide to the St. Lawrence. 



THE PHAT BOY'S" 18 YEARS 

ON 
THE St. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands 
and Rapids, is day by day attracting more and 
more attention among tourists. There is so much 
that is grand, weird, sublime and exhilarating in the 
scenery and balmy atmosphere of the majestic river, 
as it passes in its onward flow from the lake to the 
gulf, that we need not for a moment wonder why it 
is that there is a great annual increase in the number 
of those intelligent people, who, from East, West 
and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to 
recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that 
luxuriating season known to every American as 
" vacation." 

A vacation on the St. Lawrence means a sojourn at 
some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel 
of either class for a few days, or for one, two or more 
weeks, as the time, finances and inclinations of the 
individual may dictate ; or it may, as in hundreds of 
instances it does, only include a voyage of rapid 
transit from New York to Utica, Clayton, Niagara 
Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to Alexandria 
Bay or Montreal, then return home. There are 
several different popular starting places to reach the 
river ; it is presumed you will take the most convenient 
one, and we will consider ourselves pleased with the 
selection. 



HERE IS WHERE YOU BEGIN, 

dear reader, to puruse an effort, of mine which has 
taken up my leisure moments for the past eight months ; 
it is not a physical effort, or it would have been larger, 
but being a literary one is a good reason why it can be 
held within such a small space as two hundred pages. 
A physical effort anywhere near my ^ize you would 
have very little use for. While traveling, where could 
you store it away ? No sardine box would hold it. 
You could not put it into a satchel or trunk nor tuck it 
away in any little convenient place. But this little 
volume can be carried most anywhere. I have tried to 
make it of such a desirable size that it can rest secure 
in the coat pocket, shawl-strap or in the hand. It is a 
dose for an adult, not to be shaken before taken, as you 
are expected to shake until your sides ache before you 
get through it ; do not be in a hurry ; take it easy, it is 
niore pleasant that way. Do not feel offended if your 
name is not mentioned among " The People I Have 
Met." Think what a large head it would take to 
contain all I have passed through ; but console yourself 
that you may be among " The Things I Have Seen." 

It is a pleasure as well as a duty to state that I am 
indebted to Mr. George C. Hawley, Stenographer, of 
Rochester, New York, who so ably assisted me in taking 
my dictation for this work. 

HOW THE METHODIST CHURCH LOST 
A BISHOP. 

Some time ago, way back in the fifties, I had acquired a 
taste for reading, and purchased a copy of the New 
York Ledger, which was then publishing, for the first 
time, the story entitled *' The Gun Maker of Mos- 



cow." My father, who was an ardent and vigorous Meth- 
odist, inquired what I was reading; I said the "New 
York Ledger ;" he says, "What, story papers, novels ?" 
"Why," I said, "I did not know, it was a paper published 
and it contains stories," and he remarked, "Do you like 
stories ?" and I said, "Well, I have not as yet acquired 
much taste for stories. This is the first story that I 
ever attempted to read, except Robinson Crusoe and 
Jack, the Giant Killer. I read old Rob. until he found 
a companion named Friday, then I dropped him. So I 
cannot say that I have acquired much taste for story 
reading. However, I might develop that taste." So my 
father promised to buy a book with a story on every 
page if 1 would read it through. So, boy-like, I prom- 
ised I would, and he proceeded to purchi^se me a book, 
which I found after being presented, was a Bible, and as 
I had made my promise, I intended to keep it, but 
extorted from him another promise, that after I had read 
it through, that he would buy me another book, knowing 
that it would not be another Bible. I read it through ; 
not understandingly, but because I desired to keep my 
promise to my father. 

Handing him the Bible one day, I said, "There, 
father, I have read that book through, as I promised I 
would." He, smiling, said, "Can't you find any new 
stories in this ' I have been reading this good book for 
over forty years and I can find a new story every time I 
open or peruse its blessed pa^es." "Well," I said to 
him, "you promised that when I had read this through 
you would buy me another book and I know you will 
keep your word," which he did, and the next book he 
bought for me was an edition of Spurgeon's Sermons, 
which of course, was a change, and I perused it with 
great care together with pleasure as well as benefit. 



8 

One sermon in particular impressed me and that was 
one he preached to sailors going from England to Wales 
on board ship one Sunday when becalmed. It was simply 
a collection of fine stories, beautifully woven together, 
and as I had acquired a taste for story telling, it was 
very easy for me to commit the sermon to memory by 
using four or five little notes which could be placed upon 
a common calling card. It was the duty of our whole 
family to attend church at least three times of a Sunday 
and once on Sunday night, for we were always regular,^ 
but this Sunday night in particular, it did seem to me as 
if the heavens were open and we were to experience 
a second deluge, for I never in my life saw it rain so 
hard, and we were to be dragged out to church in that 
shower, quite a distance to the Swamp Angel Methodist 
Church, so I interposed a condition and stated that if 
father would stay at home, as well as the rest of the 
family, I would preach them a sermon. My father looked 
me straight in the eye and said, "Where did you get your 
sermon from?" and I said, ''From the book you presented 
me," and he said, " All right ; we will stay at home." 
And so the family, at his call, went into the parlor and 
were seated. Afterwards I came in and placing the 
Bible on the centre-table, opened it to where my text 
was and placed a little card with the notes therein. 
After singing a hymn selected from the books we had, 
my father was requested to pray, which he did, and I 
arose to deliver myself of the discourse, which lasted one 
houi and ten minutes. My father's eyes were upon me 
from beginning to end, and while the tears rolled down 
his cheeks my attention was called to the furrows they 
had made in his face, and when I closed we sang another 
hymn and my mother closed the services with prayer. 



The only thing religious that I forgot was the taking 
up of a collection and dismissing them with a benediction, 
but my mother told me the next day that my father 
never slept a wink that night, and the next morning 
placed $500.00 in the Rochester Savings Bank to my 
mother's credit, and went to see Professor Dewey to pur- 
chase a scholarship for me in the Rochester Theological 
Seminary, but the next day I ran off with a circus, 
and the next twenty years of my life I spent in the 
show business. So you see how close I came to becom- 
ing a Bishop. 

It is evident that nature done her part of it in giving 
me this manly form and ponderous size, therefore if I 
had done my part and went to college there is no doubt 
that I would have forced myself to the front and become 
a Bishop, 

MY VISIT AT THE SUNDAY SCHOOL 
EASTER. 

I am not positive as to the day, whether Ash- 
Wednesday, Candlemas day, Patrick's day or Good 
Friday, it was one of those days that my twin brother, 
Dr. E. F. Babbage, said to me '' Let us visit the church 
and Sunday school of our youth, that we attended 36 
years ago, next Easter day." I accepted the invitation and 
joined him and proceeded to the Cornhill M. E. Church. 
We were greeted upon our arrival by our old friend, 
Brother George Leat, who escorted us to a front seat near 
the preacher, that we might drink in a sufficient quantity 
of the spirit at short range. The printed program 
which was distributed among the audience was rendered 
in a very pleasing manner and the pastor preached an 
able sermon about charity and the beauty of giving to 
the cause of missions. 



lO 

After the sermon we were invited to remain to 
Sunday school and were requested to take seats upon 
the platform with the superintendent during the session 
of the school. We were asked to make some remarks. 
The Doctor arose and in a few well chosen words 
informed the scholars that he was not much of a talker, 
but he had brought his little brother along who was a 
public speaker and who would be more than pleased to 
address them. Of all the embarrassing positions that it 
has been my good fortune to have been placed in, this 
was really the climax. I have in my life time addressed 
audiences ranging from too to five thousand, but never 
had spoken to an audience composed of children. Not 
until after I had risen to my feet did I take in the situa- 
tion. It became self-evident to me that it required 
a sage philosopher to address a Sunday school and I 
knew that I was none, but it was necessary for me to say 
something, therefore I told them that T)^ years ago I 
was a scholar, seated where these little boys were; that all 
of the religious instructions that I had ever j-eceived 
were imparted to me in this church and Sunday school; 
that for thirty odd years I had been thrown upon 
the world, and that the amount of spiritual teachings that 
I took in while a boy had sustained me through all these 
years, and I hoped for the next 30 years all these little 
boys and girls within the hearing of my voice might 
expand and grow in good deeds to be as much better 
Christian men and women than I am larger than you 
are to-day. 

13 IT COOL AND PLEASANT AT THE 
THOUSAND ISLANDS? 

I am asked that question scores of times during the 
winter months, by people who are desirous of finding a 



comfortable place to rest during the heated term. After 
taking a perspective view of this huge mountain of flesh,the 
330 lbs. which adorn my manly frame, they fire this ques- 
tion at me: - " Do you pretend to say that the climate at 
the Thousand Islands is such that a person possessing 
the avoirdupois which you appear to have, can be made 
comfortable without the aid of a fan mill or a Wickes 
Refrigerator ?" All that is necessary for me to say is, for 
18 summers, I have made it my home as it is the only 
place I can recuperate my lost energy. If there is any 
device which will more accurately test the heat than a 
shirt collar of a man whose weight is 330 pounds, I would 
like to be in possession of it. I make the statement, and 
I am willing to prove it by a preponderance of evidence, 
that there has never been but two days in any summer 
that I have been overcome by heat, nor more than two 
nights but what this 330 pounds could slumber 9 hours 
under a blanket. Two nights last summer I will admit 
were uncomfortable. If the dear reader will pardon 
me, I will relate a little incident which befell me. One 
of these hot nights I awoke and found myself lying 
upon my back. The perspiration had oozed from my 
manly brow, filling the hollow of my eyes to such an 
extent that I could not open them. It dawned upon me 
that the best, thing I could do would be to perform 
a contortion act and turn this large body over on its side 
so that the water might run out. I did so and the 
experiment proved a complete success. 

MY ELEVENTH COMMANDMENT. 

It has been my good fortune during life to have 
traveled a great many miles — been in every city in North 
America that has a population of ten thousand souls, and 



12 

in some states have visited nearly every town and county. 
I have a natural inclination to observe not only men, 
but I have made a study of human nature, consequently 
I give it as my opinion that about eight out of every 
ten persons that I have had the pleasure to meet, have 
in his or her lifetime received religious instruction 
when young, have attended Sunday school more or less, 
and have been impressed with the ten commandments. 
Some no doubt have committed them to memory, and 
have abided by them and used them as a guide until 
they have attained the age of maturity or discretion. 
There are those possibly who have found it incumbent 
and necessary to add my eleventh commandment, which 
r ^ads thus: " Thou shalt look after thyself first, last and 
all the time, and the green stuff." Many I have met who 
have discarded the ten commandments altogether and 
held the eleventh exclusively. Relating this little 
story regarding my codicil to the ten command- 
ments, to a fellow passenger on board the steamer 
" Chicora," plying between Toronto and Lewistown, he 
informed me that they had an eleventh commandment in 
England, which he learned before he came to America 
which read thus: "Do up everybody or else everybody 
will do you up." A gentleman from the Green Isle per- 
chanced to hear this and said, " Begorra, you want to 
add .a little to that: 'And thou shalt not get caught at it.' " 
Now, dear reader, you can pay your money and take 
your choice. 

WAS IT A GOLD MINE? 

Well, looking upward from the dock into the mouth of 
a very pretty female passenger on one of the boats, we 
thought it was ; but upon inquiry found it was one of 



13 

those very artistic bridge jobs of dentistry performed 
by Dr. E. M. Scrantom, corner Main and St. Paul 
streets, Rochester, N. Y. As it is impossible for me to 
keep that young person always near me to show up his 
unique work, it will be a pleasure for me to show you 
his next best piece of work in point of excellence, which 
is in my own mouth. He is entitled to this gratuitous 
notice, for to his ability I owe the good mastication 
which assists assimilation of food and aids digestion 
which makes me so healthy to-day. 

E. F. B ABB AGE, Publisher. 

"DON»T DO IT." 

This startling head-line, when it strikes the eye, 
denotes that there is something to be said of personal 
benefit to the reader of the article, and we hope to 
make it pleasant as well as profitable to those who 
take the time to peruse it. To begin with, we desire 
to say, don't get fat ; do not allow yourself to develop 
beyond the line which is laid down for the average man 
or women ; because, if you do, the average chair will 
not fit, the average seat in a railroad coach will be too 
small ; you will be obliged to shrink into it, and then 
take up the seat of another after you get in. The 
same trouble will occur at amusements, which you 
enjoy very much, but it so distorts you to occupy the 
chair that the pleasure is lost ; the average door to a 
hack is too small, and so is the omnibus, and you are 
obliged to walk. Here you will enjoy it, especially if 
it is a little slippery, dropping now and then three hun- 
dred and thirty pounds, because your friend thinks it 
does not hurt a fat man to fall. You will get little 
sympathy from any one, this I guarantee, because I 



^4 

have tried it. By way of illustration, if I had not 
eaten anything for three days but a yard of pump 
water, and was to come to a friend and say I was 
hungry, and had not had anything to eat for three days, 
he would look me all over, and in reply would say : 
" Well, I guess you can stand it until next fall." So 
the fleshier you are, the less sympathy you get. And 
" If Dr. Tanner stood it for forty days, you have suffi- 
cient fat to last you six months, to say the least." 
Second, you become, as it were, a curiosity, and all look 
at you with amazement and wonder what circus or side 
show you escaped from, or to what dime museum you 
belong. Third, there isn't anything made for the average 
man that will fit you, therefore everything must be made 
to order that you wear, except a necktie, pair of socks 
or handkerchief. The latter must be seven-eights of 
a yard wide in order to hold the perspiration it will mop 
up in once passing over your manly brow. Fourth, 
when at the age of 21, and weighing 225 pounds,' I had 
no trouble in making a selection of a partner for life. 
She climbed the golden stairs several years ago, and 
now I am fair, fat, funny and over forty ; would pass in a 
crowd for thirty-nifie, if my daughter was not around. 
If I find one now who loves a fat man — I am a little too 
fat — therefore, this world is very chilly for me. 

After you have become a little above the average 
size, as I have in development, and are conspicuous, 
everybody will know you ; if they do not, it will be easy 
for them to find out ; all they are obliged to do is to ask 
anyone. You will not know only those of your rela- 
tions and friends very near to you. Then this world 
will be very lonesome and cold, or your experience will 
be different from mine. No one will ever ask you to 



15 

"get in and take a ride," no matter what, the circum- 
stances may be — as they think of forty accidents that 
might occur, and you are too large a body for the aver- 
age springs or seat in any vehicle. It would be a treat 
(were you not sensitive) if you could walk one block 
and hear the expressions that come from the vulgar 
throng as they pass. One female, with eyes like two 
saucers, exclaimed : " Glory be to the father, Mary 
Ann, phwat's that ? " And another says, '' Gott in him- 
mel, what a fat man," or a lady of color declare, 
" Umph ! Umph ! ! Dat am de fattest man I ebber 
seed." 

SIR WALTER PELHAM, ENGLAND'S 

GREATEST HUMORIST, 

paid the Thousand Islands a visit, and gave his unique 
entertainments in different places. While in a conver- 
sation with him on the dock one day a steamboat arrived 
with about two hundred passengers on board and 
remained about fifteen minutes, during which time Mr. 
Pelham stood by my side taking in the situation. After 
the boat had left he remarked that it was a fortunate 
thing to me that I was not sensitive in regard to my 
personal appearance, etc. '' For," said he, ''of these two 
hundred passengers I do not believe one of them missed 
seeing you and scanning your manly form from head to 
foot. I would suggest that when you die you be placed 
in a memorial window for future generations to gaze 
upon." When he had finished these complimentary 
remarks I presented him a copy of my book. The next 
day a poem was handed me, together with Mr. Pelham's 
compliments, and I am sorry to say that it has been lost, 



i6 

strayed or stolen, and consequently I am unable to pro- 
duce it in full, and can only give what little I remember. 

From Florence to E. F. Babbage. 
In your " People I have met and the Things that I have seen," 
I noticed you your widowerhood deplore ; 
Now, I am a slender maid. 
Not of adipose afraid, 
Who could love you if you scaled a hundred more. 

If you were twice your size, my sighs the same I'd breathe, 
Fat ne'er puts out a flame that's lit by love ; 
Then come along with me, 
And let us married be, 
And be my little, popsie wopsie dove. 

For when we two are one, the better half then I, 
Your adipose of course will half be mine, 

Therefore at once agree. 

Oh ! think how sad 'twill be, 
Thy Fatima for you to longer pine. 

Oh, guide of sweet St. Lawrence, devote your fat to Florence 
And leave the wandering river's flowing tide ; 

The beauty of the waters 

Compare not with Eve's daughters. 
So make me just the happiest of brides. 

Then board the nuptial craft, or matrimonial raft, 
Your oil will sure subdue life's stormy waves ; 

And live with me in peace. 

And have your joys in grease. 
Till called to lard our vaults or common graves. 

" Till death do us part, as it were, etc." 

A LITTLE ONE FOR THE BENEFIT OF 
"DANA'S" SUN. 

George P. Ewing, a congenial drummer for a cele- 
brated New York manufacturing company, chanced to 



17 

hear a conversation between a mother and her daughter 
while taking a trip from Alexandria Bay to Montreal. 
The young lady had purchased a copy of my book, 
and after reading it had handed it to her mother, who, 
upon looking at the picture on the cover, exclaimed very 
excitedly, " Where did you get that fearful book with 
Grover Cleveland's picture on it ?" The daughter 
soothed the old lady by telling her that it was not 
Cleveland's picture, but it was a photo of Mr. Babbage, 
and the book contained a description of the St. Lawrence 
River, written by the Author after eighteen years' ser- 
vice, and a perusal of it gave her more pleasure than 
anything she had read since she left home. 

A HORSE ON THE SCHOOL MARM. 

The large verandas of the different hotels, cottages 
and houses of the Thousand Islanders, support easy 
rockers and comfortable furniture of all sorts for the 
accommodation of their guests, and when full and 
brought in close proximity, present fine opportunities to 
relate reminiscences and spin yarns until one cannot 
rest. I will say that I had the pleasure of being one of 
a lively crowd who had assembled on the balcony of one 
of the large hotels last summer ; there were twenty of 
us, and all females with the exception of myself, and I 
am a female's friend, because my little brother is a doc- 
tor. I soon found that I was in the midst of a lot of 
school teachers, and before I could recover my accus- 
tomed modesty, I was persuaded to relate a funny 
story ; at first I declined with the explanation that I 
could not think of any story that would be of interest 
to them, but, I remarked, that as you insist upon my 
saying something, and as I observe that you are all 



i8 

school teachers, I will relate the school marm story. 
There was a little red school-house in a very remote 
place ; two boys were near a window looking out ; one 
of the boys being much larger than the other, he saw in 
an adjoining lot a mule ; turning to his schoolmate he 
said : "Johnnie, if I had a couple of lips like that mule, 
I would like to kiss the school marm." This caused the 
smaller boy to laugh, which attracted the school teach- 
er's attention ; she called him forward and interrogated 
him as to the cause of his laughter ; he said he did not 
care to tell. "But if you do not I will whip you." He 
related in substance what his friend had said after much 
persuasion ; as a punishment she kept the larger boy 
after school. One of the young ladies • remarked, that 
if she had been that teacher she would have whipped 
him right on the spot, and I said, " no you wouldn't, you 
wouldn't hit a boy on the spot ; that is the worst place 
in the world to strike a boy." She blushed, covered 
both hands with her face and I left. 

MY MEETING WITH DAVID DUDLEY 

FIELD, OR HOW I EARNED 

TWENTY-TWO CENTS. 

A season or two ago Alexandria Bay was honored 
with a visit from David Dudley Field, the distinguished 
jurist. Seeing one day he was about to be a passenger 
on the boat Island Wanderer for a trip among the 
Islands, I thought I would introduce myself to him, and 
at the same time make him a present of my book and 
map, as it would give him the name of every island, 
cottage and stopping place of the boat on her trip. 
Approaching him, I said : " Mr. Field, I have here a 
little book which on page 49 commences a description 



19 

of your trip this afternoon." He took the book out of 
my hand and upon reading the title, said : "I don't want 
anything humorous ;" and I remarked that it was only 
humorous where it was not descriptive, and if he didn't 
care for it I had a picture of the St. Lawrence River. 
Before I could say any more he had turned the book 
over and saw the price of it was twenty-five cents, and 
he commenced going through almost a contortion of 
body, and fumbling in his pockets for the twenty-five 
cents to get rid of me, and I saw that his efforts were in 
vain, for all he could produce was twenty-two cents, 
and he forced me to take it, notwithstanding the fact 
that I had said to him that I came there for the pur- 
pose of making him a present of my book, also a picture 
of the St. Lawrence River, which I repeated again. 
Then he said, "Why didn't you do it then," and my 
answer was, that ''You didn't give me time, and seeing 
that you have thrust this twenty-two cents upon me, I 
shall have the pleasure of keeping it until I return home, 
and then it shall go into my museum of curiosities. 
When you come and visit me you shall see it," 

HOW WOMEN FISH. 

Having read various descriptions of how fishing is 
carried on by the fair sex at the several watering places, 
permit us to mentionsome of them. One writer said : 
"Ah ! what joy to have a bite ; what rare delight to 
find one's bait gone" — and it was only by the suicidal 
policy of some water-weary fish who chanced to pass 
our way that we could record one fish for our day's 
sport. How different is the fishing at the Bay. 

As an illustration, a very funny anecdote was recited 
to me by Mr. J. C. Covert, editor of the Cleveland 



20 

Leader^ who said, "Talk about ladies catching fish, I am 
somewhat of an angler myself and take a great deal of 
comfort fishing at the Bay. The other day I was out 
fishing with my wife, who, by the way, has no preten- 
sions as a captivator of the finny tribe, yet she caught 
seven fish before I had time to put my line into the 
water." This somewhat astonished me, and I remarked 
that he must have been very slow that morning. He 
answered by telling me, "No ! On the contrary, I was 
very lively ; all my time was employed taking the fish 
off and baiting her hook." He entered a protest after 
that and let the boatman attend to Mrs. Covert's line 
while he enjoyed the sport. 

A gentleman says of the fishing near the Hudson : 
"The first thing a woman does when she goes fishing is 
to make herself look as hideous as possible — a sort of a 
cross between the Witch of Endor and Meg Merrilies. 
This is done by a hideous straw hat big enough to cover 
a chicken coop, the oldest and most unbecoming dress 
she has got, a pair of gloves six sizes too large, and, if 
possible, rubber boots. And the sight of woman, lovely 
woman, so dressed, presents a spectacle of pity." You 
will not have occasion to pity any of the ladies who go 
fishing from the Bay, for they look so jaunty you would 
envy them and their enjoyment as well as fish. I have 
known Mrs. Madden and party to bring home thirty fish 
varying in size from a 3^ black bass to a 7 pound 

pickerel. A friend writes from C — Lake, telling 

how he spent a day fishing there, accompanied by three 
ladies and a gentleman friend. " Women never step 
into a boat here, they always jump. Of course she 
slips, falls down, yells for help, nearly upsets the boat, 
and is put to rights by the most eligible young man in 



2t 

the party. Nothing will do then, but she must row, 
and she knows as much about rowing as a cow does 
about billiards She handles her oars as if they were 
trees, splashes every one with water, and after half an 
hour's work she is about ten feet away in the wrong 
direction, when one of the men takes the oars and we 
are soon at our fishing place. She tries to bait her 
hook, and after getting the hook into all her fingers (in 
fact everywhere but into the minnow), her friend baits 
her hook, and she throws it out. The first time it 
catches onto one of the ladies' ears, the next throw, 
into the back of the gentleman's neck, and the third 
time into the coat of her friend, who quietly cuts it out 
(it is his best coat), and he gently puts the line into the 
water without saying a cuss word, and says he hopes she 
will catch a whale. 

After a few moments of quiet all are informed she has 
a bite ; she pulls it in steadily to find it is part of the 
carcass of a dead horse. She is soon relieved of the 
burden and catches a small perch. She is so delighted 
that she must let it flop into the faces of every one in 
the boat, tries for twenty minutes to take it off the 
hook, but her fingers are so sore she lets the job out to 
her male companion. One of the other ladies has sat 
for two hours without moving a muscle, while the other, 
I believe, would fish with a hair-pin baited with a piece 
of red flannel hung to a skein of silk in a stationary 
wash-tub, and solemnly declare when she got through 
that she had millions of bites" Dear lady readers, we 
have no such experiences to relate at Alexandria Bay. 
The boats are the prettiest, the fishermen the nicest, the 
fish the largest and best, the boatmen bait your hooks. 
The hotel furnishes the lunch, and you are sure to catch 



fish. When they are cooked and you eat your meal 
served upon an Island, and do not say you have had the 
most pleasant day ever spent fishing, draw on me for 
the balance. P. B. 

A WORD TO MY PROFESSIONAL 
FRIENDS. 

While it may not be known to all who are fortunate 
enough to obtain a copy of my work and peruse the 
same, nevertheless it is a fact that about twenty years of 
my life I was engaged in what is commonly called the 
show business. 

In 1858, I started in, in the employ of Mr. George Lee 
of New York City, now proprietor of Port Jarvis, N. Y., 
Opera House, in connection with Jack Hudson and 
Billy Jackson, who were considered at that time the 
best side show people in the business. I then connected 
myself with John Graffam as a glass blower in i860 
and '61. My next step was with the W^oodruff Bros., 
later George Woodruff, the celebrated Bohemian troop 
of fancy glass blowers, La Rue's Carnival Minstrels, and 
MacEvoy's Hibernicon, etc., etc. It would be a pleasure 
to go on and write a detail sketch of my career as a 
showman, but the old saying is, that life is short and we 
have not long to live and we are certainly a long time 
dead. I will omit a biographical outline of my life until 
later ; I will say that it has been a pleasure to me to 
meet my old associates and professional friends during 
my 18 )^ears on the St. Lawrence, among which I am 
pleased to mention Mr. Sol. Smith Russell, whom I first 
met as far back as 1867. He was quite young at that 
time, but full of ambition and talent, and I have watched 
with a great deal of interest his professional career. I 



23 

have many a little anecdote which I could relate of his 
ability, tact and humor, but it is a question in my mind 
whether they would be of interest to my readers, and I 
know not whether Mr. R. would love to have them 
published. I will be brief and say, that had I been a 
wise man I would have accepted the position offered me 
to become his manager, which he proffered. I would 
have been worth a half million instead of Mr. Fred D. 
Burger his present courteous and amiable manager who 
can draw his check for that amount. I do not envy 
them, am only glad to be classed with their " Poor 
Relations." Ed. Harrigan and his manager, Mart W. 
Hanley, with their families, made the trip with me from 
Niagara Falls to Montreal, taking the steamer from 
Kingston through the Thousand Islands and Rapids of 
the St. Lawrence to Montreal. After watching Mr. 
Harrigan all day, and noticing how minutely he takes 
In all that surrounds him, and how for hours he was 
among the deck hands studying character, I am satisfied 
how easy it must be for him to write a play depicting 
the many positions and scenes in every day life that he 
has himself passed through. I called upon him in May 
and found the two young kids Johnnie Wild and Billy 
West with Reilly and the four hundred. Wm. R. Hay- 
den, Senator Crane, Yokes Family, Jno. P. Smith, W. S. 
Meysteer, Mr. and Mrs. Chas. MacEvoy, Mr. Neil 
Burgess, Henry E. Abbey, John Schoeffel, Lafe Heidel, 
John Henshaw, Frank B. Cilley, Charles B. Christ, Cus 
Williams, Dan Morris Sullivan and Mr. Joseph Murphy, 
Tom Karl, the great Barnaby, P. T. Barnum, Buffalo 
Bill, Denman Thompson, Charles J. Evans, Gus 
Pennoyer, Frank Edwards, Charles H. Bradshaw, Pierce 
Jarvis, E. O. Rogers, Mr. James Lewis, John W. Ransone 



24 

and wife, and enough others to more than half fill the 
soup tureen, 

THE ONE I ENVIED MOST. 

A short time ago a party of old-time show people per- 
chanced to assemble in one of the leading hotels in 
Rochester. It was my pleasure to be among the num- 
ber. After listening to a large amount of old narratives 
of trial and tribulation I was called upon to delineate 
one. I did so and the substance of it I will state here 
in a narrative form for the benefit of some young 
aspirant who desires to follow the business. . 

Gus Pennoyer, the agent, business manager and 
treasurer of the great actress, Lotta, and myself were 
doing the Pacific coast in 1872. I was the accredited 
representative of Charles MacEvoy's original Hiber- 
nicon. We had been in San Francisco five weeks 
together. He started out one week ahead of me to bill 
Vallejo, Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Mar>sville, etc. 
As I followed him it was necessary in order to make my 
announcements of the coming of my show to cover his 
paper; on several occasions he very kindly allowed me 
to do so two or three days in advance. One day while at 
Marysville we went into the office of the hotel. I told him 
that I had a little matter that I wished to communicate to 
him and if he would take a seat I would divulge it. He did 
so and listened to me with a great deal of interest. I 
told him that as the agent and representative of Charles 
MacEvoy's Hibernicon I envied him and his position as 
agent of Lotta. He remarked, laughing, ''Well, hold 
on a minute, let us compare notes and so see who has 
got the best of it. What are your duties ? What serv- 
ices do you render ? " I said " I am his credited agent, 



25 

and as such I secure all dates, lay out the routes, order 
all printing, and do all of the business connected with 
the success of the entertainment except giving the 
same. He follows in my track, pays all bills contracted 
by me " He asked me if it wasn't necessary for nie to be 
with my company. I told him no ; I didn't see them 
sometimes for six weeks. I was always supplied with 
funds in advance by my manager. Then he said. " My 
dear boy, you have envied me and have been honest and 
told me of it. I am going to be honest and tell you that 
while I am the agent of Lotta, my duties are very much 
different from yours. I have in charge Miss Lotta, her 
mother, a parrot and a dog, must attend to their transpor- 
tation from place to place, and from depot to hotel, and 
from hotel to opera house or hall ; must see that they 
have a corner front room on the parlor floor, must be 
ready at all times to ma ch ^worsted at the corner 
grocery store, walk three or four miles per day to exercise 
the dog, sleep with one eye open to be ready to go for a 
doctor in case the old lady or the parrot should be taken 
ill, attend to the box office receip':s as well as the tickets 
at the, door, commit all the parts so as to be able to 
assume any one of the characters in the cast in case of 
sickness or inability to perform of some member of the 
troupe. You say you now have six hundred dollars of 
MacEvoy's money. I represent Lotta and don't carry 
five cents. Your salary is ten dollars a week more than 
mine. Taking everything into consideration I am of the 
opinion that you are the one to be envied, and not you 
to envy me." 

YOU KNOW HER. 

She is one of the strong minded of the female sex, 
and generally has her own way in everything. At any 



20 

rate, she stands ready at an}' and all times to combat 
with an}' one of the lords of creation, or otherwise, who 
may dispute her sway. We prefer your imagination to 
till in a description, because it would be next to an 
impossibility for me to do so. She has all the requisites: 
the thin, tall t'lgure, the hatchet face, sharp nose, wears 
glasses, and always carries an umbrella. About one 
each day will pass down this route in Summer, except 
when an Eastern or Western Excursion comes : then it 
will be hard to select those who are not of her kind. 
The first object that strikes her eye is our manly figure. 
After looking it well over, she remembers that fat peo- 
ple are proverbially jolly and good natured, so she 
breaks into conversation, and about the first question 
she asks is : "Were you always as large as you are 
now ? " " Oh, yes I I was born this size." The answer 
causes her to discover ^hat she has left out the word 
'* proportion." So she apologizes, smiles for the first 
time, and we are friends for the trip. 

WILL HE HAVE IT THERE? 

An English tourist registered at " The Crossmon," 
Alexandria Bay, asked the clerk for a corner room up 
one flight, on shady side, a special hall boy, meals 
served in room, a bath, and candle instead of gas, steam 
heat and— " Hold on I " said the clerk ; " 1 think you 
have made a mistake ; this is not heaven." 

LORD H. U. MERRIAM 

was a visitor at Alexandria Bay last season, and while 
he remained put up. from choice, at the jNIarsden House, 
Alexandria Bay. We were very intimate and social 
during his stay, and I inferred he came where I take 
my meals to see if he could get as fat as I am. 



27 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. 

Some few years ago Mr. Perkins was a passenger on 
one of the boats. I do not know whether he took me 
for the captain, director or manager of the line, or not, 
but he exerted himself considerably to form my 
acquaintance. There was nothing unusual about that, 
however, as there is something ^^ distingue'' about me, 
and when on the boat I stand considerably "above 
proof." I have frequently dined at the same table with 
the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin, and retinue — after 
his lordship had left. But to return to Eli. The day 
in question I was upon the boat, as usual, describing the 
points of interest, especially the one on the Canadian 
shore, where the St. Regis Indians come year after year 
to gather the famous elm and basswood with which to 
make their celebrated baskets. I was delineating at 
some length upon the noble red man, when Eli came to 
me and said, ''I will write you a verse of poetry about 
that." Glad to get a memento in that shape from so 
distinguished an individual, who had so often been 
accused of being witty, I said it would please me very 
much. Here is the verse : 

" Once here the noble red man took his delights, 

Fit, fished and bled ; 
Now most of the inhabitants are white, 

With nary a red." 

I thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent 
occasions took great delight in repeating the lines to the 
passengers, never forgetting for a moment to remind 
them that they were written for me by the alleged 
American humorist. One day, after delivering myself 
of the poetry and repeating to the passengers that it 
was written by the celebrated poet, writer, humorist 



28 

and lecturer, Eli Perkins, I was approached by an 
exceedingly polite and affable gentleman, whom I 
learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of Rochester, 
N. Y., who asked me if he understood me correctly in 
attributing the authorship of the lines quoted to Mr. 
Perkins. I assured him that he had written them 
expressly for me, and produced in Eli's own hand- 
writing the original copy. With a subdued smile rest- 
ing upon his countenace, Mr. Rochester informed me 
that there must be an error somewhere, as a gentleman, 
a Mr. Fletcher, had written a poem in 1834, in which 
the exact verse occurred, and he proceeded to repeat 
the verse from memory. This took me slightly back, 
and I subsequently came to the conclusion, with "my 
friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that a cabbage leaf was 
never more at home than when in the crown of " Uli 
Perkins' hat." After that I had no more use for the 
poem, but determined if I ever met "Uli" I should call 
to his mind the circumstances connected with "his little 
poem." I had not long to wait, for one day, while in 
Evansville, Ind., at the St. George Hotel, I met the gen- 
tleman, and recalled the circumstances connected with 
the little verse, and he, with a perfect air of nonchalance^ 
said that he had never given it a thought since — 
dashed it off in a minute. I told him how remarkable 
it was that great minds often run in the same channel, 
and related my experience with his gem. He scowled, 
and, turning on his heel, said it was indeed a singular 
word-for-word resemblance, but changed the subject at 
once, and asked me to his room on the following morn- 
ing, which invitation I cheerfully accepted, doting all 
the evening upon having a nice time, and swapping a 
few gags, etc., etc.; but my hopes were blighted, for 



29 

the next morning I was informed of his very early 
departure — gone up to lie to the people of Rockport, I 
was told. '' Uli " is a great man and contracts a larger 
amount of business upon a small amount of capital 
than any public character I know of. When Eli reads 
this I expect he will load his big gun — not intellectual, 
but otherwise — and come for me. I will therefore give 
him a pointer in advance ; there won't anything scare 
me but a stomach pump. 

ALEXANDRIA BAY AS A MECCA FOR 

ALL PERSONS AFFLICTED WITH 

ASTHMA OR HAY FEVER. 

The effect produced almost instantly upon those 
troubled with these diseases is simply marvelous, to say 
the least. You would hardly credit the assertions if I 
should make them. Permit me, as an illustration, to 
cite one instance which I deem remarkable. Dr. 
Buckley, one of Rochester's noted physicians, was so 
low in August last that he had to be taken on a bed 
from his home to the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg 
railroad and placed upon the cars. He arrived at 
Alexandria Bay that evening. The next morning I 
met him walking on the dock smoking a cigar, feeling 
as happy as he ever felt in his life. 

The daughter of an editor of a Rochester paper also 
came here to avoid asthma and remained six weeks. 
She never had the least show or sign of the disease 
while at Alexandria Bay but took an excursion one day 
over to Canada and was not on the land more than an 
hour when she was forced to return or suffer an attack 
of hay fever. 



30 

H. R. CLARK, of New York. 

This little volume would not be complete if it did not 
mention his name, not only in connection with the fish- 
ing at Alexandria Bay, but the facts of his having 
given more time and money towards stopping illegal 
fishing than all the owners of cottages and islands com- 
bined. He was elected an honorable member of the 
Canadian Fisheries Commission, and was the prime 
mover in forming the Anglers' Association of the 
Thousand Islands," and personally captured more nets 
than all others interested. He is the most enthusiastic, 
as well as the best posted gentleman that comes to the 
Islands to fish, and knows more about the habits and 
nature of the finny tribe than any other party -who 
comes here. He won the gold medal given for the 
largest and best catch of fish for the season of 1885. 
His standing offer to catch ten pounds of fish in a given 
hour, in any day, from the St. Lawrence River, during 
the season, or give ten dollars to any charitable institu- 
tion, I may mention, if he fails. Here is one of his 
catches on an eight-ounce rod, a single leader, a " G " 
line, a fish weighing seventy-eight pounds, girt measure 
twenty-nine inches, length sixty-three inches, time in 
landing one hour and five minutes. Beat this and I will 
tell you more. 

Hon. A. CORNWALL, of Alexandria Bay. 

Cornwall & Walton were the original purchasers of 
the Thousand Islands, in the American channel of the 
river, from the government. Mr. A. Cornwall is the 
survivor of the firm and therefore the father of them, 
and I call him Pa. If you desire any information not 
in this volume, call on him at the old stone stores of 



31 

Cornwall Brothers, and he will give it to you cheerfully. 
He is an Encyclopedia of facts on the St. Lawrence or 
the Thousand Islands. 

WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA 
BAY. 

In 1.872 President U. S. Grant visited this delightful 
spot, a guest of Geo. M. Pullman, of palace car fame, 
Pullman Island. There was at that time inadequate 
hotel accommodations, for the tourist as well as the 
visitor who had been drawn to this, the most beautiful, 
natural scenery in the world. Messrs. Cornwall and 
Walton, of Alexandria Bay, with their usual display 
of sense and sagacity, as well as business tact, for 
which they have always been commended, offered to 
give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man 
who would erect upon it a first-class summer hotel. 
Mr. O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of 
this offer came, he saw, and how he conquered you 
shall know as we proceed with our narrative. Well, 
he concluded to father the scheme. Securing a man 
with money, a Mr. Nott, of Syracuse, the ground, or 
rock rather, was broken January 14th, 1873, ^^^d the 
Thousand Island House was completed and opened 
July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day of 
starting. Rumor says that although their money gave 
out a little above the first story. Staples' indomitable 
will saw it completed and furnished, ready to receive 
guests, just as soon and as well as if he had been 
a millionaire. During the next two years of the part- 
nership of Staples and Nott, everything did not go 
as smooth as a marriage bell, but still they went, and 
in the end Staples had the money and hotel. (I hope 



32 

the reader, if he knows Staples, will not be so unkind 
as to accuse him of parting with all his experience 
and make the pun that he took the money and Nott 
the experience). Staples bought out Nott, and, I 
believe, paid him what was agreed, and he run the hotel 
until April 15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. Southgate (the 
man of many hotels, too numerous to mention here) 
bought him out. The many changes that have been 
made, and those contemplated, when completed, will 
make this the Mecca of summer resort watering places, 
the Venice of iVmerica I desire to say right here that 
I hope Mr. Southgate will not lose sight of what has in 
the past made the Bay popular as a resort. I like to 
see the standard of visitors raised as well as prices. I 
would like it to be the place for fish as well as those 
who love the piscatorial art. No dust, no dampness, 
no malaria or hay fever, no mosquitoes ; light, dry air, 
cool and bracing. Thermometer never over 80 or below 
50 in July or August, and one can enjoy what is denied 
them almost everywhere else, a good nine hours of 
cool refreshing sleep linder a blanket. Those troubled 
with pulmonary complaints will find great relief here. 
Steamers, steam yachts and sailing vessels- abound, 
everything to animate the scene and enhance the pleas- 
ure of visitors is done. Fishing, fishing boats, bathing, 
etc., as well as fish abound, and we say here, if you have 
never been to the Bay, come. 

MY VISIT TO THE STATE FISH 

HATCHERY AT MUMFORD, 

NEW YORK. 

Mr. Monroe A. Green, the superintendent of the State 
Fish Hatchery, gave me a very kind invitation to visit 



33 

him and the State Hatchery, at the opening of the 
season, April ist, 1890, which invitation I accepted (the 
same was extended for this year, but I was unable to 
accept). The event will always remain Green in my 
memory for it was indeed a glorious trip. Mr. Lapey 
the Assistant General Passenger Agent of the Buffalo, 
Rochester & Pittsburg Railway, issued transportation 
for myself and stenographer over his road from 
Rochester to Mumford and return. While on my way 
to the depot on the morning of my departure, I was 
greeted by a friend who inquired as to where I was 
going so early in the morning. I informed him that I 
was about to visit the fish hatchery at Mumford. He 
then, with premeditation and malice aforethought, asked 
me if I was going to spawn. I replied, *^ No, but to see 
them manufacture fish." Arriving at the depot at 
7 o'clock and 30 minutes we boarded the train and 
started. A friend invited me to sit in the smoker ; but 
as I had just received my morning rations, and knowing 
that the fumes of the smoking car would have the 
tendency to force me to relinquish my grip on that 
meal, I declined his invitation and seated myself in the 
ladies' car. Arriving at Mumford we were met by a 
messenger and driven to the celebrated hatchery. Upon 
entering the main building we were received by Super- 
intendent Green and his son Frank. We also met the 
following gentlemen who were on hand to try their luck 
in capturing the finny tribe : Mr. Wm. S. Kimball, Dr. 
Hurd, Mr. Samuel Wilder, Mr C. C. Morse, Mr. Thomas 
Harris, of Rochester, and Mr. R. S. Coleman, of Sandy 
Hill, Washington Co , N. Y. The above named gentle- 
men were equipped with the necessary credentials and 
started out. Mr. Wilder was the champion of the day's 



34 

fishing, having caught at least fifty good sized speckled 
trout. But if his friend "Bowman" had been there 
he would have doubled the number. Myself and 
stenographer remained at the large hatchery to receive 
information regarding the manufacture of fish. Super- 
intendent Green has been interested in fish hatching 23 
years and has the last few years hatched ten million fry 
per year, which are sent to nearly every county in the 
state. Ninety-five per cent of the fish that are hatched 
under his supervision live. The largest number of fish 
are hatched during the months of November and 
December. The Salmon Trout seem to be in the 
greatest demand, although German Trout are becoming 
very popular. Mr. Green has raised six hundred thou- 
sand German Trout since receiving forty thousand eggs 
six years ago. There are five districts in the state all 
supplied from the Mumford hatchery. It requires from 
two hundred to two hundred and fifty pounds of hashed 
liver to feed the fish daily. While we were receiving- 
the above information a large gong sounded, which 
denoted the fact that Assistant Walzer had prepared a 
fine spread in an adjoining building. Seating ourselves 
at the table the fieshy man was requested to ask a 
blessing. He replied that the best he could do would 
be to recite the dude's blessing, which he did (a copy of 
which will be mailed to any one on receipt of a two 
cent stamp), and the party with a good will as well as a 
good appetite, did the subject ample justice. The next 
excitement was the catching of a two pound California 
Trout by the tail, and landing the same in 26 minutes, 
which act was accomplished by the short hand man with 
an 8 oz. rod. Thermometer, 4 degrees below freezo ; 
pulse, 115 ; eyesight good. 



35 

THE LARGE GATHERINGS. 

Round Island Park, Thousand Island Park and 
Alexandria Bay have, at different times, been honored 
by conventions, meetings of associations in convention, 
pilgrimages, etc., a minute description of which would 
fill a volume ten times the size of this one, so I can 
only mention what is uppermost in my mind, the Press 
Association of Vermont, under the guidance of S. W. 
Cummings, Esq., the general passenger agent of the 
Central Vermont Railroad. He and his associate, 
Mr. T. H. Hanley, made for them an ever to be remem- 
bered excursion trip The Librarians of America stayed 
in the midst of the Thousand Islands three or four days. 
They were, without exaggeration, the most refined and 
educated body of men and women that I ever' met. 
The Brooklyn Tabernacle, with its thousand pilgrims, 
were also delighted with everything they saw at the 
Thousand Islands, and were profuse in their expressions 
of its scenic beauty. I met the Rev. Dr. Talmage and 
had a personal interview. I don't wonder now that his 
magnetism holds such sway with his Brooklyn audience, 
and that the whole world receives so cheerfully through 
the telegraph his sermons. 

THEY DO IT EVERY TIME. 

When the average American's postage stamp does 
not stick he storms around and makes the air fairly 
blue until he secures the mucilage bottle and fixes the 
stamp to his letter. Not so with the average Canadian. 
He procures a needle and thread, sits quietly down and 
sews the darned thing on. 



36 

THE HUMORISTS OF AMERICA. 

Most of these jovial, good-natured souls have,- at 
some time or other, paid the Thousand Islands and the 
St. Lawrence River a visit, but it would be useless for 
me to try and remember each and every one of them, 
or their peculiarities. I cheerfully remember Mark 
Twain (Samuel L. Clemens, Esq.), and one of the fun- 
niest stories I tell was of an evening spent at Toronto, 
while a guest of a friend, and the little speech that he 
made introducing Senator Hawley, who was to make a 
political address at Elmira, N. Y. He was a passenger 
down the river. After naming over several towns and 
streets in the Province of Quebec, he remarked: "Are 
they all saints here ; no sinners ? " 

SALISBURY 

of the Fall River Advance^ going down the St. Lawrence, 
as a passenger, and his written description of the trip, 
is the most humorous that I have had the pleasure of 
perusing. '^Bob " Burdette's, of the Burlington Hawkeye^ 
description of the Victoria Bridge is very funny: Knox, 
of the Texas Sif tings, went down on the opposition line, 
so did not have a chance to meet him. Eli Perkins you 
cheerfully remember, and I have given a very definite 
description of an interview, in another part of this work. 

REPRESENTATIVE MEN 

of New York, New Orleans, Rochester, Buffalo, Pitts- 
burgh, Cleveland and Chicago, respectively who occupy 
cottages, etc., at the Thousand Islands during the sum- 
mer, should be mentioned here, but space alone pre- 
vents. This little volume is published expressly for 
Tourists who travel, and if it becomes large, burden- 



37 

some or cumbersome, it is useless for what it is designed, 
as a descriptive book of the St. Lawrence River. I 
therefore cannot lose sight of this fact, and must con- 
tent myself with publishing a book that will contain 
about i8o or 200 pages. 

H. H. Warner, of Rochester, N. Y.; George M. Pull- 
man, Chicago; N. H. Hunt, of Brooklyn, N. Y.; Royal 
H. Pullman, Baltimore, Md.; C. B. Marsh, Chicago, 
111., Judge Donahue, New York; Rev. W. Dempster 
Chase, New York; H. C. Wilber, Pres. Lehigh Valley 
R. R.; Rev. Dr. Saxe, Rochester, N. Y.; Fred W. Haw- 
ley, Rochester, N. Y.; C. H. & W. B. Hayden, of Colum- 
bus, O.; Judge Spencer, New York; W. J. Lewis, H. A. 
Laughlin, G. T. Rafferty, J. S. Laney, of Pittsburgh; 
J. C. Covert, the present Mayor Rose and Mr. J. M. 
Curtis, of Cleveland, Ohio ; Judge La Batte, New 
Orleans ; C. J Henderson, of New York ; Judge Thomas 
Troy, of Brooklyn; Hon. R. A. Livingston, N. Y.; M. 
B. Bettman, of New York; John Lowery, of New York; 
E. & T. H. Anthony, Mr. J. W. White, of White Plains; 
H. R. Clark and family, of Jersey City; Royal E. 
Deane, of New York; last but not least, my solid friend. 
Col. T. G. Carnes, of Gainsville, Texas, a man after my 
own heart and weight as well. He says he enjoys him- 
self more at Alexandria Bay, and can keep his three 
hundred and ten pounds cooler, than at any other resort 
in America, and when you are about to select a summer 
home think of me and my three hundred and thirty- 
three pounds, and after passing eighteen years on the 
St. Lawrence, I have not seen over two days in any 
summer that would cause me, through heat, to change 
my summer home. 



38 

THE PEOPLE WE MEET AT THE 
THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

Visitors going to the Thousand Islands will strike 
the river either at Kingston, Cape Vincent, Gananoqua 
or Clayton. The first of the summer resorts after 
leaving Clayton is Round Island, which is occupied by 
the Baptists. The Hotel has been enlarged, refitted and 
refurnished and the name changed to Hotel Frontenac, 
under the management of Mr. Almy of New York, a 
hotel man of note and ability, but the denominational 
sectarian barriers have been removed the same as at 
each of the other resorts, and all Christians, of what- 
ever sect, or no sect, are welcome. Even the dude can 
revel in his peculiarity. The next point is Grennell's 
Island Park, where is located a very nice hotel and a 
number of fine cottages. Beyond is Thousand Island 
Park. This is occupied by the Methodists, and they 
welcome everyone, except on Sundays, when no persons 
are allowed to land on the island. 

The Fine View House, Central Park and Kdgewood 
Park have no religious proclivities known to me, but 
^'Solomon Isaacs " would not be admitted at Kdgewood 
Park unless he would swear that he was a " Quaker." 

Westminster Park was founded by the Presbyterians, 
and is occupied by them and their friends. Summer- 
land by the Universalists and their friends. 

Alexandria Bay is cosmopolitan, where everybody is 
welcome and can stay as long as they behave them- 
selves and pay their board. 

Now, dear reader, imagine the Baptist, Methodists, 
Presbyterians, Universalists and all their friends com- 
bined, and now if you want a summer of pleasure with- 
out any baneful influences, you wouldn't miss it in 



39 

securing the Thousand Islands for your summer home, 
where there are no bad people whatever, such as drunk- 
ards, loafers, tramps, people of bad repute, male or 
female, and if they should drift in they would receive 
a cool reception among the people of the Thousand 
Islands. It would not require a Pinkerton or any other 
detective to select from, among those Christian people 
or their friends any bad character, but they come, 
nevertheless, though their stay is short. 

CREDIT TO WHOM CREDIT IS DUE. 

While we have spoken very pleasantly of the episode 
of H. H. Warner and George M. Pullman; of their 
returning to their respective islands and expending 
nearly a half a million dollars in beautifying them, after 
wandering from one end of the world almost to the 
other in search of comfort, proving conclusively that 
we have the finest watering place in America or we 
could not retain such men as these, I must say a few 
words in justice to those who remained with us during 
their absence; who bore the burden and heat of the day 
and lavishly spent their money in fitting up their islands 
to make the Thousand Islands what they now are. 
Among those people I will mention A. B. Pullman, 
C. B. Marsh, N. H. Hunt of Brooklyn, N. Y., H. R. Heath, 
Royal E. Dean, E. W. Dewey, C. H. and W. B. Hay- 
den, J. H. Oliphant, A. C. Beckwith, A. E. Clark, H. A. 
Laughlin, C. E. Hill, Hon. W. G. Rose, Mayor of Cleve- 
land, O., J. M. Curtis and a host of others, 

THE WHY NOT! 

I am asked almost every day why the Canadians do 
not occupy the islands in their channel of the river the 



40 

same as the Americans do. The only answer I can give 
is, that the American comes here to rough it, fish and 
enjoy himself during the summer vacation, and the 
Canadians have it rough enough the year round, so do 
not have to come. 

BOYS ON A STEAMER. 

Here is a genuine. His parents are with him ; he 
cannot keep still ; he wants chiefly to break his neck or 
fall overboard, or to get crushed by the walking-beam ; 
he has been twice dragged from the steps leading to the 
walking-beam used by the assistant engineer for lubri- 
cating purposes ; he would like to get in the paddle 
boxes, has talked every officer on board to death, and is 
now trying his best to worry the deck hands. How 
curiously constructed is a real boy, to go whither he 
should not, and especially where his anxious mother 
most fears he will go ; he is now doing his best to spoil 
his parents' trip. We can leave him for a moment ; he 
won't flag in his endeavor to get into trouble or to make 
his parents miserable. 

This is a smaller boy — not yet out of his petticoats, 
but very active ; he, too, has with him an anxious 
mother ; he has found another boy — a strange boy, of 
the same size and sex ; they have become acquainted ; 
the strange boy is allowed by his parents to roam 
about the boat at will ; he invites the nice little boy to 
roam also ; he wants him to roam as near the walking- 
beam as possible ; he has roamed there before himself 
and escaped ; he tells the nice little boy how cunning 
it is to come near being crushed ; the nice little boy's 
mother forbids any roaming at all ; she looks with 
disfavor on the strange boy ; but the strange boy 



41 

continues to hang around ; he knows, so does the nice 
boy, together they can fool any one mother ; united 
they stand, divided they fall ; now the nice boy edges 
away from the side of his mother, for her energies are 
momentarily concentrated on the set of her bonnet and 
the nice looking gentleman at the other end of the 
saloon, who is taking side glances at her through the 
mirror. Now the nice boy gets farther away ; they are 
on a forbidden part of the deck near the walking-beam. 
It is great fun. Now the cross man who keeps order 
on the deck drives them away. They go to the news 
agent's stand and help themselves to anything on the 
table when he is not looking. They are now running in 
and out the state rooms, where the passengers have 
gone to take a little rest, getting in everybody's way ; 
it is a wonder they haven't been killed twenty times. 
It is great fun for the boys, but almost death to the 
passengers. x\nd the mother is still so occupied with 
her bonnet and the dude who has made a mash or favor- 
able impression upon her that she has not missed her 
nice little boy. 

SIR JOHN A. McDonald, 

who is Canada's prime minister, has been a passenger 
upon the boats, two and three times during each season, 
until his face became a very familiar one to me, and I 
must say that it is as jolly looking as my own, and 
about as expressive ; while his is a Roman nose, mine 
is a pug. I remember his first trip down, after his 
election to the premiership, and my saying to him : 
" Now we have a change in politics and in government, 
I shall expect of course, a position under the new 
government." Sir John A. remarked : " Yes, you shall 



42 

have it. I shall make a change. We will have the 
rivers run the other way so you can be utilized day and 
night to make it pleasant for the people without extra 
pay or allowance." When giving my description of 
Barnhart's Island and the Canadian Channel passing 
around, the settlement of the treaty of 1812, and the 
ratification of the same by Lord Ashburton and Daniel 
Webster, he asked me if those were facts and I said, 
" Yes, and I am astonished to think that you would 
have to ask me about such an important point and 
treaty." When nearing Montreal I had finished giving 
a description of places and points of interest, and had 
described Bonsecours market when he told me that an 
Irish friend of his pronounced it different, he called it 
" Bone Scowered market." • 

A WORD IN FAVOR OF THE CROSSMON 
HOUSE. 

We now come to that which provides sweet and invig- 
orating rest after the varied river sports, country drives 
and sociabilities. We mean The Crossmon. The old 
hotel, under the same management as the new. It has 
been the stopping pla' e for visitors to the islands for 
more than a quarter of a century, and acquired during 
that time a reputation of which any hotel with similar 
facilities might be proud. The new, many-towered 
Crossmon consists of a five-story building, covering 
exactly the site of the old hotel of pleasant memories. 
It is a picturesque structure, surrounded by wide veran- 
das and traversed by spacious halls. 

THE SITUATION AND OUTLOOK. 

It is most charmingly situated, close to the river on 
the north and a little gem of a bay from which the 



43 

village takes its name on the east, thus having two water 
sides. Its windows, verandas and towers afford exten- 
sive views of the river and islands in three directions. 
Most of the prominent islands and cottages may be seen 
from it, together with miles and miles of the sweeping, 
bounding, gleaming river. The hotel has in reality two 
fronts (with their entrances); the one being toward the 
river, where boat passengers enter, and the other on the 
main village street, where carriages are the mode of 
conveyance. 

PRINCIPAL ADVANTAGES OF THE CROSSMON. 

The office, wine room, billiard room and barber shop, 
being on the street front of the hotel, are entirely 
removed from the water front where the verandas are, 
and where the guests like to assemble for games and 
promenading. An elevator runs from the basement to 
the top of the building, and the broad stairways, in both 
main building and wing, afford quick means of egress 
in case of fire. 

The hotel is lighted throughout with gas, and supplied 
with pure river water, which is forced by a steam engine 
into an enormous copper tank on the roof, and conveyed 
from there to the various floors by means of galvanized 
iron pipes., thus doing away with all danger oile ad poison- 
ing and other impurities. On every floor are water- 
closets and bath-rooms with hot and cold water. Elec- 
trical bells and speaking tubes connect the office with 
every part of the building. It will accommodate three 
hundred guests, and is adapted to satisfy those who are 
accustomed to luxurious homes. 



44 

WHAT I TOOK HEED OF. 

Having been away from my native city, Rochester, 
for at least a year and a half, crossing the continent 
from the rock bound coast of Maine to the jumping off 
place in Florida, visiting nearly every city in this coun- 
try, when I returned home I met my venerable pastor 
and beloved friend, the Rev. Dr. J. B. Shaw. 

This gentleman always took a good deal of interest 
in my personal welfare and would warmly shake me 
by the hand whenever we would meet. He would 
interrogate me as to my prosperity and adversity. On 
this particular occasion he asked me where I had been> 
and after answering his questions to his entire satisfac- 
tion he noticed prominent upon my expansive shirt front 
my pin. After looking at it a moment he said, " Mr. 
Babbage, is that a diamond ? " I replied in the affirma- 
tive. He remarked, "of the first water?" I replied, 
''yes, boiled in oil." He said, "that must represent a 
small house and lot." I said, "yes, sir, very nearly." 
He said, " why don't you sell that and give the money 
to the poor ? " In answer I remarked, " while I wear it 
at your suggestion, I may part with it if you desire to 
have me." He said, "did I ever tell you to wear a dia- 
mond ? " "No, not exactly; but in a sermon you 
preached one Sunday you remarked that some of your 
friends had bright spots about them, others had none ; 
some, the only one you could discover was a 
diamond they wore in their shirt front, so I went 
home and looked myself over in vain to find that bright 
spot, so I purchased this one. Does it fit me ? " 
Laughingly he said, "do you treasure up everything 
that I say as faithfully as you did this ? " I replied that 
I hoped that I did. He asked me if I was going to 



45 

publish an edition of my book this year. I told hinl 
that I was about to issue another edition and that I had 
a copy of last year's book with me. I asked him if he 
would kindly accept a copy and read it, and to give me 
his opinion of it the next time I met him. He replied 
that he would. In about three weeks I met him and 
asked for his opinion. He smiled and remarked that it 
was a very, very funny book. 

"GOING THAT WAY." 

Captain Sinclair, of the Steamer " Passport," was in 
a fog early one morning just before leaving Kingston 
and one of the passengers remarked to him that it was 
clear above, to which the captain answered, " Yes, but 
unless we have a blow-up we will not go that way." 

A GOOD ONE ON CAPTAIN ESTES. 

Everyone familiar with the St. Lawrence River will 
surely recognize the name of Estes, as it is one that 
has been connected with the River for the past forty 
years. Some one of the Utica, N. Y., daily papers 
mentioned Captain Estes of the Steamer " St. Law- 
rence " as a man extremely polite and scrupulously 
neat in his dress, and very attentive to those who are 
passengers on his boat ; a man who does not chew, 
smoke or drink, nor tell fish stories. An old gentle- 
man, accompanied by his wife and daughter, having 
heard of the captain's reputation, remarked that he 
would like to introduce him to his daughter. The 
gallant captain, who looks very young for his age 
answered, " No, thanks, I am a married man." 



46 

THE PHARMACEUTICAL ASSOCIATION 

of the State of New York held their annual conven- 
tion at the Thousand Islands two years ago, and when 
they made their excursion on the " Island Wanderer " 
around the islands I accompanied them and delineated 
the points of interest on the trip. Just before arriving 
at Central Park they noticed the large twelve-foot 
letters " C. P." which are used for illuminating posts at 
night, there being hung upon the letters one hundred 
lanterns. Some one asked what the "C. P." stood for. 
I answered, " Central Park," when one of the members, 
the president's wife, I think, answered "'C. P.' means 
chemically pure. I never knew it to mean anything 
else but that." This biographical incident is intended 
for druggists only. 

APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF 
THE ENGLISH. 

This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, 
but I am sorry to say in Free America, better known 
as U. S. I cannot find any fault with the Average 
Canadian, who is, as it were governed by Queen 
Victoria, and must have some reverence for royalty, 
in the aiping of their manners and customs, but in 
this land, where we bave an abundance of Queens, 
Princes, Lords and Sovereigns who are not flattered by 
titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are royal born 
and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that at home 
I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or " Phat Boy " (I spell 
it with "Ph" because it does not sound so greasy), but 
the moment I leave home, say for a trip through the 
South, I am called Captain for the first few hundred 
miles, then a little way on it becomes Colonel, and when 



47 

I get to Georgia it is Major ; South Carolina it is Judge 
or General, until I get to Florida, and I have heard 
them say there, "Great God, is that you?" But we 
diverge. Returning to the aping of the manners of 
Princess Louise, I wish to say right here that I firmly 
believe that it did the Canadian people a great amount 
of good, but fail to see where the people of the United 
States could, be benefited. I was told that at Kingston 
the Princess asked for her strawberries in a box with the 
hulls on, and when placed before her she took them up 
by the stem between the thumb and finger bit the berry 
off and placed the hull on the plate. Now everybody 
does the same ; previous to her visit they used to hull 
and wash them before placing them on the table. The 
same with grapes. They used to wash them in a goblet 
of water at the table before eating them ; now they take 
the grape between the thumb and finger, press it to the 
lips and squeeze gently, and juice as well as insides are 
soon on the way to digestion, and the skin laid away on 
the plate as the Princess did. Asparagus — it is almost 
painful for me to see Canadians eat in as many ways as 
there were people at the table, in fact, no two ate it 
alike until after the Princess came ; now everybody 
takes it by the hard green end, between thumb and 
finger, and putting it into the mouth, close the teeth 
down upon it and draw it gently from the mouth, 
leaving all that is digestible within, and the remainder 
is laid on the plate. The Princess once took a walk 
through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, took the 
vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked peas 
from the vine that had just been shelled, saying it was 
nonsense, if your hands are clean, to wash a virgin pea. 



48 

WE CALL THEM TRAMPS. 

During the Centennial year many foreigners were 
always found among the list of passengers from every 
country. The proverbial English tourist cannot be 
mistaken by any, but this year, 1876, we had many who 
were too green or unsophisticated to be in that class. 
Now this truthful occurrence which I am about to relate 
is original and occurred upon one of the Richelieu & 
Ontario Navigation Company's line of boats. The 
Englishman was relating to his newly found friend his 
opinion of the United States, etc., in his own peculiar 
style. " Hi don't like this blarsted country, you know !" 
"Why," said his friend, ''what fault can you find with 
America ?" " Oh, Hi've been all over it, you know, and 
can't find any sawciety there." " Society," said his 
friend, "what do you mean by society?" "Oh, dear 
me, yon have no gentlemen or gentlemen's sons in 
h'America." "Why, what do you mean by gentlemen 
and gentlemen's son's?" "Oh! Hi mean gentlemen 
who never did any work, you know, nor their sons, 
either." You make a mistake there, my worthy friend, 
we have millions of them here, but we call them tramps, 
and I have often thought it the best definition to a 
tramp I ever heard, for if there are gentlemen and their 
sons here who never did any work they will soon make 
good timber for tramps, if they are not already." 

"NOT A GEORGE WASH." 

He had told several very improbable stories border- 
ing on the Eli Perkins order, and then remarked to a 
friend that he could not tell a lie. But the friend 
replied that he could the moment he heard it, and to 
the best of his judgment he had told several. 



49 

ROUTE OF THE STEAMER '* ISLAND 
WANDERER." 

The dock from which the "Island Wanderer" leaves 
for her daily excursions around the Islands, morning at 
8, afternoons at 2.15, is in front of Cornwall Brothers' 
Stone Store, where tickets and all information may be 
had relative to any route by either rail or boat, to any 
part of the globe. Taking your position upon any part 
of the boat that will allow you to face the bow, upon 
your right will be Hart's Island, Westminster Park, 
Dock and Freight House, which is located at the lower 
end of Well's Island — this island ten miles long by four 
wide. A little above, hid by a cluster of trees, is the 
residence of John Winslow, next is Imperial Isle, owned 
by G. T. Rafferty, Chicago, III. The next is Linlithgow, 
owned by Hon. R. A. Livingston, New York. The next 
cottage on bluff is owned by Miss Lucy J. Bullock — 
the cottage a little above is owned by Prof. A. G. 
Hopkins. Next is Florence Island. Near the water 
edge is the boat house of St. Elmo, and the con- 
spicuous slate-colored cottage above and wind-mill 
below, is owned by Mr. N. H. Hunt, of Brooklyn, 
N. Y. It is presumed you have taken in the above 
panorama before starting. Immediately after starting, 
on the left, you pass the Thousand Island House 
and Little Staples Island — around the point is Otter 
Creek, Edgewood Park and Martin's Cottage. The 
Edgewood Park Company have erected an elegant 
hotel and several cottages are being built by the 
members of the company, who form a sort of social 
club for their families and friends, care being exercised 
in the selection of members as well as visitors, and 
if the project is carried out, as it is contemplated, 



50 

this Edgewood Park will be the summer home 
of some of the best people in America. On the right 
is Friendly Island, containing cottage, boat house and 
lookout, owned by E. W. Dewey, of New York. 
Next above is Nobby Island, owned by H. R. Heath, 
of New York.. Opposite, on the left, is Cherry 
Island (the reason they call it "Cherry" is because 
they raise their own strawberries from which they 
make their celebrated custard pies). The Island con- 
tains Ingleside Cottage and Melrose Lodge, owned by 
Mr. A. B. Pullman and C. B. Marsh, of Chicago, 111., 
also J. T. Easton's Villa, called Stuyvesant Cottage, 
and Rev. George Rockwell's Cottage. Opposite on the 
right, is the famous Pullman Island, " Castle Rest," 
where George M. Pullman spent one hundred and fifty 
thousand dollars on buildings, etc., and presented the 
whole Island and surroundings to his mother on her 
eighty-fourth birthday. Also where Gen. U. S. Grant 
visited in 1872. Next beyond on bluff is " The Towers," 
built by W. C. Browning, of Browning, King & Co., New 
York. Next is Safe Point, which is on Wells' Island. 
On the left is the famous Devil's Rock and Oven of 
historic fame. It is said that here is where Bill Johnson 
hid himself, as there is an opening in the rock large 
enough for the usual fishing boat to enter with its con- 
tents and be completely hid from view. This is what 
is called the Oven, and it resembles the old form of 
Dutch ovens. Beyond, on the left near the main shore, 
is Cuba, owned by W. F. Story, of Buffalo, N. Y. 
Opposite, on the right, is Craig's Side, owned by H. H. 
Laughlin, of Pittsburgh. Next, on the left, is Hill's 
Island and boat house, owned by C. E. Hill, of Chicago, 
HI. Next, on the left^ is Warner's Island. On the 



St 

right is Palisade Point, owned by A. C. Beckwith. Next, 
on the left, is Comfort Island, owned by Mr. A. E. Clark, 
of the Chicago Stock Exchange. Mr. Clark has lavishly 
expended a large amount of money for ''Comfort." It 
is joined to Neh-Mahben, meaning twin lakes or islands, 
owned by J. H. Oliphant, of New York. On the right 
is Louisiana Point, owned by Judge La Batte, of New 
Orleans, La. I desire to apologize for stating in a 
previous edition that Judge La Batte was dead. He 
came to death's door, and was so low that his physician 
had called his family to his bedside to witness his last 
moments, when he motioned to his son to come near, 
and drawing his ear down close to his lips, he whispered, 
" Take me to my summer home on the St. Lawrence." 
They started from New Orleans, La., the next day and 
he arrived at Louisiana Point in July, and the day of this 
writing, August 20th, he had gained sixteen pounds in 
flesh and was feeling quite strong and happy — a gentle- 
man living like the "Thane of Cawdor." Opposite, 
on the left, is Keppler Point, Buena Vista Lodge, owned 
by a gentleman from Cleveland, O., who purchased it 
last season. On the right is Seven Isles, owned by 
Gen. Bradley Winslow. Mclntyre's cottage "Photo," 
owned by H. R. Heath, of New York, is. in Dinsmore 
Bay, next to seven Isles. On the left is an Indian Camp 
and Allegheny Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pitts- 
burgh, Pa. A little above is Gypsy Island, owned by 
J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, Ohio. Rose Island is con- 
nected with Gypsie Island by a beautiful rustic bridge. 
Rose Island and cottage is owned by W. G. Rose, 
Mayor of Cleveland, O. Opposite, on the right, is 
Shady Covert, a beautiful villa owned by J. C. Covert, 
Editor of the Cleveland Leader. On the right is Point 



52 

Vivian, a delightful spot occupied by a stock company, 
mostly from Evan's Mills N. Y. Opposite, on the right, 
is Island Royal, owned by Royal E. Deane, of New 
York. Behind Royal is- Holton's Cottage, also owned 
by Royal E. Deane. Above, on the right, is Hill Crest, 
owned by General Shields, of Philadelphia, Pa. 

Nothing of interest, right or left, for the space of a 
mile, except Lindner's Island, until we come to Central 
Park (Woodbine and Crest Cottages are located here), 
where we make our first stop for passengers. The next 
island is St. Helena, owned by Harrison Stillman, of 
Westmorland, N. Y. Here is a faithful representation 
of the tomb of Napoleon. Brown's Bay on the right 
and Swan's Bay on the left. A little above on the left 
is Little Calumet, owned by J. D. Green, of Boston, 
Mass. Above, on the main shore, is the cottage of 
J. B. Collins. Opposite, on the right, may be seen the 
celebrated Limburger Cheese Factory. Opposite, on 
the main shore, left, is the farm and house of Captain 
Jack, the mill and dock somewhat dilapidated. Oppo- 
site is Island Blanche and cottage, E. E. Buckingham, 
owner. A little opposite is Paul's dock and Sunny 
Side, with three other villas ; also a dairy farm, which, 
from its fine looking barns, sheds and house must be 
considered very prosperous. Peel's Dock having been 
rebuilt, was memorable as the spot where the vessel 
"Sir Robert Peel" was burned in retaliation for the 
" Caroline " being sent over Niagara Falls. Next on 
the right, " Jolly Oaks," Twin Cottage Home, Pleasant 
View and San Souci's, four cottages and dock. The 
pretty little summer house on the Island passed, we 
arrive at Fern Cliff cottages and dock. A large stone 
cottage was erected here several seasons ago, called 



53 

Hiawatha Cottage. This is for sale. Beautiful villas, 
camps and cottages line the banks on the right, among 
which is Fair View, owned by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, 
of Redwood, N. Y., until we arrive at Fair View. 
Opposite, on the left, is Fisher's Landing, Robinson 
Island, Johnson's Light and Cottage, Hemlock, Cedar 
and other islands, around the point is Castle Chase, and 
we come in sight of Thousand Island Park — located at 
the upper end of Wells' Island, owned and controlled 
by the Methodists ; the neatest, most orderly and 
attractive resort among the Islands. Something should 
be said here regarding this, the most celebrated spot 
among the Thousand Islands. As it is impossible, from 
my limited knowledge, to do the subject justice, and, as 
I cannot steal, clip, borrow or plagiarize from any other 
work, I can only say, stay over one day, or until the 
boat comes back, and look over this delightful spot. 

Again on our way, we pass the head of Wells' Island, 
and havfe a view on the right of the finest avenue in the 
Park, a long line of boat houses, and a number of steam 
yachts, sail and fishing boats, windmills, etc., etc. 
Beyond, on the right in the distance, is Hemlock Island 
and Hotel, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. This 
Island, now calle.d Murray Hill Park, was purchased by 
the Thousand Island Improvement Co., and if the 
energy displayed continues this spot will in a short time 
become the beauty of the whole. The large body of 
water on the right is Eel Bay. On the right is Grennell's 
Island and House, where the boat stops for passengers ; 
beyond, on the right, is Otsego Point and Cottages. 
We next pass two cottages, after which Picton Isle. 
Next is the Berg group ; beyoud are the Packingham 
Islands ; in the distance on the left is Round Island 



54 

Park and the " Frontenac " Hotel ; many magnificent 
cottages line the shores all around the island. This 
is a favorite resort of the Baptists. On the right 
is Little Round Island, and on the left in the Bay is 
Washington Island ; opposite on the right is the 
celebrated Calumet Island, owned by Chas. G. Emery 
of Old Judge cigarette fame. In the distance, front, 
is Clayton. The depot and docks of the R. W. & 
O. R. R. are located here. Opposite is Gov. Alvord's 
Island. After leaving Clayton, on the left you will 
have a view of Prospect Park and Hill, a delightful 
resort. Next on the left, as we turn, is Blanket Island, 
on the right is Grindstone and Club Island ; next on 
the right is Hen Island, owmed by W. F. Morgan ; 
Whisky Island is owned by C. Wolfe, of New York, 
also Levetts Island, owned by H. G. Levett ; near by 
is Buck's Point, owned by Ives Crocker, and Rum 
Point, owned by Hervy and Hewett Morgan, of Wash- 
ington, D. C; Hicks, near -Amblers is owned b)^ rela- 
tives in the Bay at. Bucks Point, is the finest bathing 
beach among the Islands ; beyond is the celebrated 
Wolf or Long Island, the largest of the Thousand 
Islands, being twenty-one miles long ; next is Hickory 
Island. We now cross the dividing line, after which 
many islands appear, all sizes and shapes until we 
come to Ross Dick Island ; beyond is Burnt Island ; 
light in the distance is Red Horse Light ; opposite, on 
the right, is Kalaria, owned by Prof. Castle, of Toronto, 
Canada, and occupied by Wilmot Castle and his brother 
Arthur, and families, this season ; Wilmot Castle &: Co., 
of Rochester, N. Y., — the manufacturers of the Arnold 
automatic cooker. We have used one in our family for 
the past five years, and I think more of it than I do of 



30 

" my mother-ill-law," and she was one of the best 
women that ever lived. 

AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

It must not be supposed that these hundreds of 
islands are all occupied and have cottages on them, or 
laid out with walks or fountains. For every island 
that has a house on it there are perhaps twenty that 
have none. The number of houses are increasing 
every year, and I think that in time nearly every island 
will be occupied in the Canadian Channel as they are 
in the American. We next arrive at 

GANANOQUE. 

Here the captain announces a stay of twenty-five 
minutes for refreshments, remarking, also, that it takes 
twelve minutes to walk up town and twelve minutes 
back, with the remainder for refresh, which seems to my 
mind a little too fresh. Leaving Gananoque on time, 
we will return by the Canadian Channel, which is more 
wild and picturesque, as far as scenery is concerned, 
although not one island or point is inhabited here to ten 
in the American Channel. On the right is Kipp Island. 
Passing many beautiful islands and light houses, we 
arrive at Halstead's Bay — after passing which the 
islands come thick and fast, all sizes and shapes, from a 
little one for a cent to those done up in bunches, like 
asparagus, and you get a bunch for five. We pass very 
close to Ash Island, so near that moss has been plucked 
by passengers on the boat. We soon arrive at Lind 
Light, on the right, and are coming to the Fiddler's 
Elbow. Lay this book aside at this point and feast the 
eye, for no writer could do the subject of a description 



56 

justice. The King of Dwarfs, Gen. Tom Thumb, was a 
passenger on the ''Wanderer" one day when he asked the 
captain why he could not have an island. The captain, 
with his usual generosity, gave him one just his size, and 
to commemorate the event has placed a monument there 
to his memory. We soon emerge from our land, or 
island-locked channel, and approach Darling's Dock. 
The dock is visible, but we have never seen the darling 
— after which comes Echo point, where you can hear as 
many echoes as you pay cents fare. Passing a farm- 
house on the right, we soon arrive on the left at Rock- 
port ; here you will observe we have but two seasons of 
the year, Ice and Rock ; this is the Rocky season. 
Turning to the right, we make direct for Westminster 
Park. Looking backward over the left shoulder, you 
will have a view of Idlewild and Sport Islands, formerly 
owned by the Packers, of Pennsylvania, who expended 
seventy-eight thousand dollars to beautify this spot, now 
owned by E. P. Wilber, Pres. of the Lehigh Valley R. R. 
& Coal Co. A better view of those islands may be 
obtained after leaving Westminster Park for Alexandria 
Bay. After passing the point, Hayden's Island, Fairy- 
land comes in view. The little island with cottage, is 
owned by Mr. Hasbrouck, of Ogdensburg, N. Y., called 
Pike Island The next on the right is St. John's Island, 
owned by Judge Donahue, of New York. The next on 
the right is Manhatten group, owned by Judge Spencer 
and Hasbrouck, of New York. A wooden bridge joins 
them together. This is the first island inhabited for 
recreation, and was bought by Seth Green, the fish 
culturist of New York State ; on the left is Long Beach, 
and Anthony's Point, (the Ledges owned by C. J. Hud- 
son, of New York) and Bonnie Castle ; on the right is 



57 

Deshler and Hart's Island. We next arrive at Alexan- 
dria Bay, from which we started almost four hours ago 

'YES! A GREAS-Y STATUE." 

" How much do you weigh ? " Well I am asked that 
question many times every day, and as I am not sensi- 
tive will say my weight is three hundred and thirty-three 
pounds in the shade, just one pound for every mile 
between Toronto and Montreal via Grand Trunk Rail- 
way, The reason why I say in the shade, is because 
there has never been raised a mathematician with the 
ability to compute the weight of a grease spot, and 
were I compelled to remain in the sun very long would 
make one, and do not care to mislead people into an 
error. The fat of this land is about as unevenly dis- 
tributed as the wealth. Those who ain't got it want it; 
those who have it, have too much. I am therefore a 
Vanderbilt in grease, have a corner in lard, as it were. 

*'DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" 

Well, not often. You see, this ponderous body of 
mine does not fit the average fishing boat. My fears 
are not all bound up in that one fact, nor in the satis- 
faction that if the boat should upset that I would not 
sink, but the fear that is indelibly photographed upon 
my mind, that as I would float, and being so large, 
some steamboat captain or pilot would take me for an 
island, lay alongside and let the passengers off for a 
little picnic or an hour's pleasure. Think of it. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such 
water! — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a pen- 



sive or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be brought 
into requisition. Private yachts are numerous and ele- 
gant, and it is to the credit of the owners that they are 
not niggardly in exhibiting a spirit of generosity and 
courtesy. They are constantly inviting individuals 
and parties to enjoy the exhilarating excitement of the 
shooting around the beautiful spots. And if you, dear 
tourist, have no friend that invites you to share a 
cushioned seat in his graceful fairy like craft, then go 
to Capt. Reese, on the "New Island Wanderer," who will 
take you on an excursion among the islands that you 
will gladly recall as a cheerful reminiscence of your St. 
Lawrence excursion, for the opportunity will have been 
offered to bring within the range of your vision enchant- 
ing scenes that pen is not adequate to describe, but by 
purchasing one of the " Phat Boy's " Pictures of the St. 
Lawrence, you will be possessor of the only correct 
map, a perfect guide to the river. 

*' WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT?" 

A gentleman from London came on board the boat 
at Kingston one morning, rushed up to me and said, 
"Mr. Babbage, how do you do? Why, you cannot 
imagine how glad I am to see you ! Why, do yot know 
that before I left 'Home ' a lady invited me to take tea 
at her house, and when I told her I was coming to 
America she never stopped talking about you for over 
two hours; it is a great relief to meet you, I assure 
you." Meeting upon the street one afternoon, a very fine 
looking old gentleman, he said, " Hold on a moment, 
I have something to tell you. I have just received 
a letter from my daughter who lives in Australia, she 
said she found one of your books upon the table at her 



59 

friend's house where she was visiting so she inquired 
how it came there. 'Why, bless your soul, we took 
a trip with him down the St. Lawrence River and he 
made it pleasant for us for eight hours and I would 
not part with the book for an interest in the profits of 
the 'new version ' or revised edition." 

A lady wrote me from Trenton, N. J.: "While at 
Alexandria Bay in 1883, I bought a copy of the ' Phat 
Boys' Delineations of the St. Lawrence River (I think 
of the Author from the picture on the cover). Have 
read it over and over to my friends until it is completely 
worn out, can you forward me another copy?" I did 
as requested and at the same time inquiring what 
pleased her friends most, and she said in reply, that it 
was all good, but the articles upon myself were the 
most pleasing to her. I must, therefore, send her a 
copy of this, my last effort. The latter part of May I 
met a gentleman at the Sturtevant House, New York, 
while visiting Mr. J. C. Matthews, the proprietor, who 
said, " how do you do, Mr. Babbage ? I presume you 
do not remember me, but while at the Thousand Islands 
last season, and before going to Montreal, I purchased 
of you one of your books, and it would be an injustice 
not to tell you that we had more real pleasure and profit 
from its perusal than any one thing on our trip. I 
desire to thank you, and my wife would do the same 
were she here. The book is almost worn out ; more 
than fifty of my friends have read it. I want another 
copy ; if you will not send it, I will come to Alexandria 
Bay and get it." 

H.H.WARNER AND GEO. M. PULLMAN. 

Two of nature's noble men. Two of the greatest 
benefactors of the human race. Two of the greatest 



6o 

men born in New York State. One the inventor of the 
celebrated Pullman Car that has given ease, rest and 
comfort to the whole enlightened world. The other^ 
the Warner's Safe Cure, which has given relief to 
millions of sufferers from Kidney and Liver disease. 

Each in turn are spending a small portion of their 
immense wealth in building suitable cottages iipon their 
respective islands^ ''-Warner's" and "Pullman's," which 
they expect to occupy during the coming season. When 
such men as they are, do what they intend, it will prove 
to the world that the Thousand Islands, as a watering 
place, has no equal, and by next season we may look 
for a '' boom " beyond our greatest expectation. 

THE ^' LOTUS SEEKER.'* 

. This tidy little craft made its first appearance on the 
St. Lawrence three seasons ago and is owned by M.r. 
Holden, of New York, who has a very beautiful cottage 
at Thousand Island Park. Many times during the 
season she could be seen plying in and out among the 
islands, comfortably .filled with invited guests of her 
owner, and passing every thing moved by steam power. 
I felt quite badly one day while taking a ride upon one 
of the " cracked " yachts, to be passed so quickly by 
the " Lotus Seeker " that I did not have time to say 
good-bye to my friend, J. W. Burdick, Gen. Passenger 
Agent of the D. & H. R. R.-Co., who was one of her 
passengers. 

WALTER H. GRIFFIN, 

the present room clerk at the Thousand Island House^ 
(late of Hotel Marlborough, New York), was the winner 
of the prize for the largest pickerel catch of 1884. It 



6i 

was caught within one hundred yards of the hotel and 
weighed eighteen and three-quarter pounds. 

MR. J. C. MATTHEWS, 

who was the manager of the Thousand Island House in 
1884, is inquired after by visitors more than any other 
person. I hope to be saved some trouble, as well as 
time, by stating here that he is the proprietor of the 
Sturtevant House, New York. If you visit the city give 
him a call. 

LORD DUFFERIN, 

one of Canada's former Governor-Generals, and in my 
opinion the best they ever had, was a passenger down 
the St. Lawrence many times while I was guide to the 
River. How well I remember some one asking him 
why he left Toronto and his comfortable quarters at 
the Queen's Hotel to come to Montreal. He answered 
by stating, that over across the lake in the United 
States, they had just had an election, the Tilden and 
Hayes campaign, and as it was impossible to tell who was 
really chosen by the people, he was afraid they, the 
people, would rise in their might, send a deputation over 
to Toronto, kidnap him and place him in the presidential 
chair. Then what would become of Poor Little 
Canada. 

-A LITTLE ONE ON PERKINS." 

Two gentlemen at the Marsden House one day were 
talking, when the subject of truth was approached, and 
one of them who stammered, said, "There are t-t-three 
great li-liars i-i-in America." The friend said, "Who 
are they ?" "0-o-one of t-t-them i-i-is T-T-Tom Oc- 



62 

Oc-Ochiltree of Te-Te-Texas, and th-th-the other two is 
E-E-Eli Perkins." 

VISITORS AT THE THOUSAND ISLANDS 

who desire to see Montreal and return by boat (their 
time being limited), the following information will be of 
interest. All passengers arrive in Montreal between six 
and seven o'clock p. m., as there is little to see at night 
and very little time to see it in. The boat leaves her 
dock, Canal Basin, to return, every morning at 9 o'clock 
except Sunday. You can remain in Montreal until the 
12 M. train for Lachine from the G T. R. station (by 
taking the train, fare 25 cents, you will arrive at Lachine 
in time to take the boat and enjoy your dinner while 
passing through Lake St. Louis). Should you desire to 
prolong your stay, remain in Montreal until the 5 p. m. 
train leaves same depot for Coteau Landing. A car- 
riage in waiting will take you to the boat, fare from 
Montreal, including carriage, $1.25. You will take 
passage from there at seven o'clock, and have your sup- 
per on board the boat while passing through Lake St. 
Francis. It takes the boat sixteen hours longer to 
come back than to go down (reason they are compelled 
to pass through the Lachine, Beauharnois and Cornwall 
canals, which consumes the time). All passengers 
arrive at Alexandria Bay, every day, between twelve 
and one o'clock p. m., except on Monday. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. 

During last summer I was at Alexandria Bay, N. Y., 
and took note of some of the best catches of fish, but I 
have not the space to record them. Let me say that 



63 

anybody can catch fish of the following varieties any- 
where in the St. Lawrence River : Rock bass, black 
bass, perch, pike, pickerel and muscalonge. I have 
caught, off the dock at the Bay, in less than two hours, 
a black bass weighing three and one-half pounds and a 
pickerel weighing over six pounds. The largest fish 
caught last season was a muscalonge, weight ^8 lbs., 
caught at an Island opposite the bay near Rockport. A 
pike 7^ pounds, black bass 5}^ pounds, a pickerel 13 
pounds. Several fishing parties out for one -to three 
days brought in such enormous catches that if I men- 
tioned them they would be called fish stories. 

Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE. 

A REAL LIVE DUDE 

was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit 
for one thing, I could not for having either money or 
brains, but will say he was very attentive to the ladies, 
and it may be said to his credit, he never tried to cut 
me out. One fine morning he induced three of the 
nicest young ladies at the Bay to take a boat ride, and 
for the privilege of their company agreed to do the 
rowing himself. They had been out upon the water for 
some time, and he had done the rowing heroically, but 
getting into the strong current, his physical develop- 
ment was being tested to the utmost, when he asked the 
young ladies '' if it would not be better for him to hug 
the shore." After a pause of a minute, the girliest girl 
of the group exclaimed : "Well, if you can't find any- 
thing better to hug, do for heaven's sake 'hug the 
shore !' " 



64 

E. B. WARREN, OF PHILADELPHIA, PA., 

with his wife and daughters, have in the past paid the 
St. Lawrence River many visits, and been mentioned 
by me for their fish catches. One day in particular 
they brought in and exhibited at the Thousand Island 
House, i8 small mouthed black bass weighing seventy- 
four pounds. Since the completion of " The Sagamore " 
on Green Island, Lake George, and the building of an 
elegant cottage there, he stays at home, and I am con- 
tented with the old proverb, " Tho' lost to sight to 
memory dear." 

EDWARD INGRAHAM, 

the King of Connecticut Clock Manufacturers, whose 
immense factories are located at Bristol, Conn., was 
spending a few days at "The Sagamore," Lake George, 
in order to gain strength after recovery from a severe 
attack of "pneumonia." The bracing air of this 
locality, together with two hours spent in a social chat 
with a select circle of the guests (myself included), he 
said it would be sure to produce the desired effect — 
health and strength. I mean to time him with an eight 
day clock and see. I have timed him. And hope his 
health exceeds his generosity, which I know is very 
large, because we are indebted to him for the ticking of 
the prettiest clock that graces any mantle on our street. 

E. G. GILMORE, 

New York's greatest Theatrical Manager, has enjoyed 
many seasons of pleasure at Alexandria Bay. The last 
time I saw him, he wanted to know how it would 
do for him to bring his whole corps de ballet to the 
Thousand Islands for a season's recuperation, "don't 



you think it would give them vigor, such good bracing 
air as you have up there ? " 

MESSRS. RAYMOND AND WHITCOMB, 

America's greatest Excursion Agents, have probably 
brought more people to the St. Lawrence River, than 
have come directly from the reading of the several 
editions of my book that have been issued during the 
past nine years, which is saying a great deal for them. 
I hope to have the pleasure of meeting more of their 
select parties during the coming season. 

MR. AND MRS. CHAS. MAC EVOY, 

of New York, have been visitors at the Thousand 
Islands many times. Mr. MacEvoy has persevered and 
after many years succeeded in producing " Glazed Kid," 
the most superb of shoe materials, "out-vieing France." 
My Auntie May, who weighs two hundred and sixty-five 
pounds, after wearing a pair of shoes four months 
made of this material, says, '^ the wearing qualities of 
the glazed kid produced the best results of any she ever 
wore." One season, with a New York friend, they 
caught the largest catch of black bass I ever saw 
brought in by amateurs. 

DR. PERRY OF THE UNITED STATES 
HOTEL, 

Saratoga Springs, caught the largest muscalonge of 
the season, 1886. As the fishing is much better every 
year, on account of all illegal fishing with nets having 
been stopped, I hope to see him again at the Bay, as 
well as all other lovers of fishing. 



66 

THE NAMES OF THE INHABITED ISLANDS, 

. POINTS AND COTTAGES 
In the American Channel of the River, Alphabetically arranged. 

A 

Allegheny Point J. S. Laney. 

Arcadia and I na , S. A. Briggs. 

Alice Col. A. J. Casse. 

Ambler Mrs. Steal. 

B 

Bergshire Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Bay Side H. B. Mosher. 

Bonny Eyrie Mrs. Peck. 

Bay View C.S.Lyman. 

Belle Island Rev. Walter Ayrault. 

Bella Vista Lodge R. B. Chisholm. 

Bonny Castle (Main Land) Mrs. J. G. Holland. 

Birch Island W. J . Lewis. 

Bucks Point Ives Crocker. 

c 

Castle Fannie Rev. W. Dempster Chase. 

Covert J. C overt. 

Cloud Rest A. H. Greenwalt. 

Chillon A. H. Greenwalt. 

Calumet Chas. G. Emery. 

Cedar Island J.M.Curtis. 

Comfort Island A.E.Clark. 

Craig Side (Well's Island).. H . A. LaughHn. 

Crescent Cottages (Main Land) Blcecker Van Wagenen. 

D 

Devil's Oven H. R. Heath. 

Deshler Island W. G. Deshler. 

Deer Island Hon. S. Miller. 

Douglass Island ■ Douglass Miller. . 

Dinglespeil Joseph Babcock. 

Elephant Rock T. C. Crittenden. 

Easton, Stuyvesant, Cherry Island James E. Easton. 

Edg-ewood Park Edgewood Park Association. 

Edgewood Cottage G. C. Martin. 

Ella Islaad R. E. Hungerford. 

Excelsior Group C. S. Goodwin. 

F 

Frederick Island C . L. Fredericks. 

Fisher's Landing Mrs. R. Gurnee & Miss Newton 

Friendly E. W. Dewey. 

Florence Island. .... H. S. Chandler. 

Felseneck Prof. A. G. Hopkins. 

Fern N.& J. Wilson. 

Fairy Land C. H. & W. B. Hayden. 

c 

Governor's Island Hon. T. G. Alvord. 

Gun Island H. H. Warner. 

Goose Island Mrs. Lottie Simonds. 

Gypsy Island J. M. Curtis. 



67 

Helen's Island Mrs. O. G. Staples. 

Hemlock Hon. W. F.Porter and Wilson. 

Hub Island George W. Best. 

HoUoway's Point Nathan Holloway. 

Harmony Mrs. C. Berger. 

Hub Clark Island Will Clark. 

Hart's Island Hon. E. K. Hart. 

Huguenot L. Hasbrouck . 

Hen Island W.F.Morgan. 

Hicks Island J. Q. Holland. 

Isle Helena Mrs. Helen S. Taylor. 

Isle of Pines Mrs. E, N. Robinson. 

Island Royal Royal E. Deane. 

Island Gracie Miss G. Fox. 

Ingleside (Cherry Island) G, B. Marsh. 

Imperial Island G. T. Rafferty. 

Island Mary W. M. Palmer. 

Idlewild Mrs. R. A, Packer. 

Island Blanch Watertown, N. Y. 

J 

Jefferson Island E. P. Gardiner, 

Jolly Oaks (WellsMsland) Prof. A. H. Brown and others. 

1^ 

Killien's Point Mr. J. Killien. 

Kit Grafton Mrs. S. L. George. 

Little Calumet Oliver H. Green. 

Lone Pine Comstock & Co. 

Little Charm Island Mrs. F. W. Baker. 

Look Out Island Thos. H. Borden. 

Little Lehigh C. H. Cummings. 

Little Fraud R. Pease. 

Long Branch Mrs. C. E. Clark. 

Little Delight L.W.Morrison. 

Long Rock W. F. Wilson. 

Little Whortleberry Mrs. L. E. B. Brown. 

Lattimer Dr. C. E. Lattimer. 

Lindner's John Lindner. 

Louisiana Point Judge La Batte. 

Little Gem Mrs. V. Walton, 

Little Angel W. A. Angell. 

Linlithgow Hon. R. A. Livingston. 

Lily's Island L. B. H. Morrison. 

Levetts H. G, Levetts, 

Maple Island Joseph Atwell. 

Minium Rev. W. W. Walsh. 

Melrose Lodge (Cherrylsland) A. B. Pullman. 

Manhattan J. L. Hasbrouck, J. C. Spencer. 

Maple Island J. L. Hasbrouck. 

Nemah-bin J. H. Oliphant. 

Nobby Island H. R. Heath. 

Nett's Island W. B. Hayden. 

o 

One Tree Island William Wright. 

Occident and Orient . E. W. Washburn. 

Ours Island Mrs. M. Carter. 



'58 



P 

Peel Island Mrs. S. P. Lake and other 

Point Vivian R. T. Evans and others. 

Photo Island H. R. Heath. 

Pullman Island George M. Pullman. 

Point Lookout (Well's Island) Miss L. J. Bullock. 

Picnic Point Westminster Park Ass'n. 

Point Marguerite (Main Island) E. Anthony. 

Pike Island Frank F. Dickinson. 

Palisade Point A. C. Beckwith. 



Quartette Island Mrs. W, Egan. 

R 

Rob Roy Island . . ' A. H. Greenwalt. 

River Side Island James C. Lee. 

Resort Island W. J. Lewis. 

Round Island Baptist Association. 

Rum Point H. & H . Morgan, Wash & Co. 

s 

Schooner Island J.N. Whitehouse. 

Sunbeam Group Odd Fellows of Watertown. 

Spuyten Duyvel Alice P. Sargent. 

Summer-Land Summer- Land Association. 

Sunny-Side Island W.Stevenson. 

Seven Isles Hon. Bradley Winslow. 

Sunny Side (Cherry Islands) Rev. George Rockwell. 

Safe Point (WelPs Island) H. H. Warner. 

St. Elmo N.H.Hunt. 

Sun-Dew Island Chas. M. Slamm. 

St. John's Judge Donohue. 

Sport Island H. C. Wilber. 

St. Helena Harrison Stillman. 

T 

Two Islands, Eel Bay Dr. E. L. Sargent . 

Twin Islands I. L. Huntington. 

Throop Dock Dr. C. E. Lattimer and others. 

The Ledges Mrs. J. L. Hudson. 

Thousand Island Park Methodist Association. 

The Towers W. C. Browning, New York. 

u 

Una Island Mrs. M. E. Steele. 



Vanderbilt Island J.B.Hamilton. 

Vilula Island H. Sisson. 

w 

Walton Lsland J. N. & G. H, Robinson. 

West View Island, Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Welcome Island Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Whortleberry Island Mrs. Etta Still well. 

Watch Island... Mrs. Elizabeth Skinnfr. 

Waving Branches . . . H. S. Ainsworth. 

Wild Rose ..Hon. W. G. Rose. 

Warner Island ...H.H.Warner. 

Wau Winet , C.E.Hill, 

West Point John Mathews. 

Whiskey.. C. Wolfe, N. Y. 



Route A 



N. Y.C. &H.R.R.R. 



The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad, 
aptly termed "America's Greatest Railroad," reaches 
more celebrated health and pleasure resorts than prob- 
ably any other line in the United States, and has long 
been the favorite route with tourists to Saratoga, Lake 
George, Lake Champlain and the Catskill Mountains, 
Montreal, Adirondack Mountains, Tho.usand Islands, 
Richfield and Sharon Springs, Cooperstown, Niagara 
Falls, and hundreds of other noted resorts of New York 
State, New England and Canada. 

The New York Central is the only four-track railroad 
in the world, and enjoys the unique distinction of being 
the only trunk line with a passenger station in the City 
of New York, all trains arriving at and departing from 
Grand Central Station, Fourth Avenue and Forty- 
Second Street, the very centre of the city. 

With its magnificent roadway, easy curves, light 
grades, superb equipment and historic scenery, the 
New York Central presents the highest developments 
of the modern art of transport. 



Route B 



WEST SHORE ROUTE, 



N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R., LESSEES. 



THE TOURISTS' ROUTE TO THE NORTH. 

While many suppose that both sides of the Hudson 
River present equal attractions — and it would be hard 
to decide which is the most beautiful — it is a curious 
fact that all, or nearly all, the noted summer resorts for 
which the country adjacent is famous, are located on 
its western bank. Thus, starting from New York and 
following np the West Shore Route, we find the Pali- 
sades, Tappan, Rockland Lake, Stony Point, Cranston's, 
West Point, Cornwall, Lake Mohonk and Minnewaska, 
the Catskills, Saratoga, Mount McGregor, and the 
Adirondacks. 

In addition to the above points of interest, the trav- 
eler may be conveyed to Lake George, Lake Champlain 
and Montreal on the north ; Sharon Springs, Coopers- 
town, Richfield Springs, Thousand Islands and the 
Lake Region of Central New York, or take the New 
York Central Railroad from the Grand Central station 
and proceed on the world-renowned four track road to 
Utica, where direct connection can be made with the 
Utica and Black River branch of the Rome, Water- 



71 

town and Ogdensburg Railroad— N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R., 
Lessees — which in a few hours will bring you to the 
majestic scenery of the St. Lawrence. At Clayton you 
take one of the beautiful steamers of the Richelieu and 
Ontario Navigation Company, direct for Montreal, or 
continue on by rail to Rochester. Should you remain 
over, stop at the New Osburn House, kept by my 
friend, Elmer E. Almy, or continue to 

BUFFALO, N. Y., 

which is connected with Toronto by the Grand Trunk 
R. R., the new route, leaving Erie Depot at 8:15 A. M., 
by rail to Port Dalhousie, connecting with the steamer 
for Toronto, arriving at 12:55 P. M., connecting with 
Royal Mail Line for Thousand Islands and Montreal, 
— should you conclude to remain over at Buffalo for a 
day or more stop at the Hotel Niagara, kept by as 
genial a landlord as one wishes to meet, Mr. H. A. Dunn, 
— or proceed by rail to 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

When visiting this wonder of wonders at any season 
of the year, stop at the Spencer House. It is first-class 
and under the management of A. Hector Gluck. You 
are sure to be satisfied in every way. The internal 
arrangements of the hotel combine every advantage of 
quiet, comfort and convenience. The rooms are taste- 
fully and richly furnished and scrupulously clean. 
Viands that delight the eye and palate, linen, china and 
silver of unexceptionable quality, servants ready without 
impertinence, and prompt without bribery, render it 
a most agreeable place of entertainment. Charles 



72 

Dickens has praised its table, Wilkie Collins its beds 
and fine linen, Booth declares it his favorite hotel, 
Modjeska, Parepa Rosa, Barrett — that prince and king 
of good-fellowship, Chauncey M. Depew, — King Kala- 
kaua, the Grand Duke Alexis, Bartholdi, and hundreds 
of others have enjoyed its hospitalities. It is kept on 
the American plan. Its prices for rooms and board on 
the first floor are $4.00 per day per person ; on the 
second floor, $3.50 ; and on the third floor, $3.00. 

GRAND TRUNK R. R. 

Trains leave Niagara FaHs every morning, Sundays 
excepted, by Grand Trunk R. R. direct for Toronto, 
arriving in time to connect with the Mail Line for 
Montreal. Trains leave Niagara Falls every morning, 
except Sunday, at 9:45 A. M. via Central Hudson branch 
for Lewiston. Any information relative to the route 
or the purchase of tickets will be cheerfully given upon 
application to Mrs. L. Barber, who can be found at 
room No. i, of the International Hotel Building. 

At Lewiston connections are made with the fast 
sailing side-wheel steamboats 

'^CHICORA" AND *' CIBOLA," 

making three trips daily across the beautiful Lake 
Ontario, arriving at Toronto in time to connect with 
the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company for 
Kingston, Alexandria Bay, Thousand Islands and 
Rapids of the St. Lawrence to Montreal. 

TORONTO, 

the capital of the Province of Ontario, is situated on a 
circular bay of the same name, and was founded by 



73 

Governor Simcoe in 1794, and we advise all tourists to 
make a stay of one or two days here. It is the only 
Americanized city in the Dominion of Canada. The 
Queens Royal Hotel, situated at Niagara on the 
Niagara river, and the Queens Hotel, at Toronto, are 
presided over by Messrs. McGaw and \yinnett. This 
is one of the largest and most comfortable hotels in 
the Dominion of Canada, and, being adjacent to the 
Lake, commands a splendid view of Toronto Bay and 
Lake Ontario. It is well known as one of the coolest 
houses in summer in Canada, and is elegantly furnished 
throughout. Rooms en suite, with bath-rooms attached, 
on every floor. The Queens has been liberally patronized 
by Royalty and Nobility during their visits to Toronto, 
and among those who have honored it with their pat- 
ronage, are : His Imperial Highness, the Grand Duke 
Alexis, of Russia ; their Royal Highnesses, Prince 
Leopold, Prince George, Princess Louise, and the Duke 
and Duchess of Connaught, the Marquis of Lome, 
the Earl and Countess of Dufferin, the Marquis and 
Marchioness of Lansdowne, Lord and Lady Stanley of 
Preston, and the best families. If you desire a carriage 
while in the city, Telephone to No. 109, R Bond's 
livery, York street. His new establishment is the 
largest and most commodious in the Dominion of Canada 
and contains every style of equipage run on wheels, 
from the Dog Cart to the Tally-Ho Coach — everything 
first-class in that line. 

PORT HOPE 

is situated 65 miles from Toronto. A small stream 
which here falls into the lake, has formed a valley, in 
which the town is located. The harbor at the mouth 



74 

of the stream is shallow, but safe and commodious. 
Port Hope is a pretty town ; on the western side the 
hills rise gradually one above the other. The highest 
summit, called " Fort Orton," affords a fine prospect, 
and overlooks the country for a great distance. The 
village is incorporated; population about 5,114. A 
direct route to Rochester by the steamer "Norseman " 
leaves this port every morning, except Sunday, calling 
at Cobourg and connecting with Grand Trunk train 
from Toronto every week day morning and arriving in 
Rochester the same afternoon. The Grand Summer 
Excursion of the " Norseman " from Rochester to 
Alexandria Bay leaves Rochester every Saturday after- 
noon and passing through the 1,000 Island scenery of 
the St. Lawrence River, arrives at Alexandria Bay in 
time for dinner, giving the passengers about five hours 
at the Bay, and returns to Rochester early on Monday. 
I have advised many of my friends to make this trip, all 
of whom have expressed themselves as delighted. 

COBOURG, 

seven miles below Port Hope, contains 6,000 inhabitants. 
It has seven churches, two banks, three grist mills, two 
foundries, and the largest cloth factory in the Province. 
It is also the seat of Victoria College and Theological 
Institute. Midway between Port Hope and Cobourg 
is " Duck Island," on which a lighthouse is maintained 
by the government. 

FROM KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 

The Mail Line, or Richelieu Co.'s boats, leave Kings- 
ton every morning at five o'clock. As we proc eed down 
the river, a description of the city will be in order. 



75 

Kingston has a population of 15,000, was founded in 
1672, by Governor De Courcelles, receiving the name 
of Fort Cataraqui. Later, a massive stone fort was 
built by Count De Frontenac, and received his name. 
In 1762 the place was taken by the British, who gave it 
its present name. As a place of defense it stands next 
in strength to Quebec. The batteries of Fort Henry 
are calculated for the reception of numerous cannon 
and mortars of the largest calibre. These together 
with neighboring martello towers, form a formidable 
defense against any aggressive movement which might 
be directed against the city. These fortifications are 
seen to excellent advantage from the steamer soon after 
it leaves the dock. 

On the right is Garden Island ; on the left. Cedar 
Island, and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, also 
in view, the round stone towers referred to above. Near 
the middle of the river is Wolf, or Long Island, 21 miles 
long, and 7 miles wide near the western end. There is 
nothing either of romance or historical episode to weave 
into our story concerning the inhabitants of this, the 
largest of the the Thousand Island group. Suffice it 
to say, that the territory is a portion of the Dominion 
of Canada, and that the habits of civilized life charac- 
terize the people. A canal is cut through Wolf Island 
and the Steamer Maud runs through, forming a ferry to 
Cape Vincent, N. Y. Between one channel and the 
main land there is St. John's or Howe Island, of no 
mean proportions. 

Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on the 
steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in the 
channel where we must diverge either for Gananoque 
or Clayton. W^e are' bound for Clayton and the Ameri- 



76 

can channel of the St, Lawrence River. (For description 
of Gananoque and the Canadian channel, see Route of 
the " Island Wanderer," page 49.) 

The time is early morning, the sun quite bright, and 
the atmosphere remarkably clear. The scene is now 
attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little to the 
left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hundreds 
have been deceived with the idea that it was an actual 
live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring aloft to a 
height that the imagination can scarcely reach. It is a 
delusion ; 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, or 
rather beautiful foliage, has deceived the eye of the 
novice of this region. 

On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organ- 
ized community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for 
the education of whose children a school is maintained. 
The Island Grindstone derived its name from a vessel 
loaded with grindstones striking the Island under full 
sail, the vessel sank but the grindstones floated. Tell- 
ing this story one day to a crowd of passengers, one of 
the ladies, Mrs. E. P. Hannaford, wife of the chief 
engineer of the Grand Trunk R. R., added that she 
knew the circumstances and that the Anchor swam 
ashore. This caused me to smile, when she added, 
"That was the captain's name." On the right is Clay- 
ton. 

It may be well to state here that authorities (?) differ 
as to how many islands there really are. Some say 
fifteen hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others 
carefully write, ?iearly two thousand. • Life is too short 
for us to stop and count these natural beauties, and 
even the pilots have no desire to win fame as statisti- 
cians by asserting the correct rnimber. The " That 



77 

Boy " has just issued the only correct map of the St. 
Lawrence River published, which will not be misleading 
to the student of the minute details. But we digress. 

CAPE VINCENT 

is a pleasant little village in Jefferson county, N. Y., at 
the junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence 
River. It is also the terminus of the Rome, Watertown 
& Ogdensburg Railroad, and connections are made 
here with the Thousand Island Steamboat Company's 
line of steamboats. This company owns most of the 
steamboats which ply through, around, across or other- 
wise in the Thousand Islands. Among the fleet may 
be found the palace steamers "St. Lawrence," "Islander," 
"Maynard," "Maud," etc., etc., one of which will convey 
passengers arriving by R. W. & O. R. R. to Alexandria 
Bay. Connections are made to Kingston by steamer 
" Maud." 

A canal having been constructed through Wolf Island 
the steamer "Maud" passes through thus saving a trip 
above the head of Wolf Island or about the same dis- 
tance passing around the foot to reach Kingston, since 
the N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. became lessees of the R. W. 
& O. abridge is contemplated to cross the river at Cape 
Vincent, to connect it with Kingston, Canada. 

Let us here describe the American channel from Cape 
Vincent. 

As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long or 
Wolf Island. The next on the right is 

CARLTON ISLAND. 

At the upper extremity the land narrows into a rugged 
promontory, ending in a bluff sixty feet in height. 



78 

Here, lifting their ruined heads aloft, and plainly- 
visible to all passers along the river, stand a number of 
toppling and half ruined chimneys. These may be seen 
for miles around. So long have these old sentinels 
watched over the scenes that their history is lost in the 
misty past. Around them are the remaining ruins of 
an old fort, supposed by many to be the ruins of old 
Fort Frontenac. Its old redoubts and parapets linger 
antiquated historical legends and traditions enough to 
fill a volume, which has been lately published by the 
editor of the Sf. Zawrence News, of Clayton, N. Y., 
forming an interesting study. A copy was presented to 
me by the publisher, but has been mislaid and cannot be 
found. An ancient well, cut in the solid Trenton lime- 
stone down to the level of the lake, has been con- 
verted by the reckless imaginations of the natives into 
a receptacle of the golden doubloons which the French 
soldiers, upon evacuating the old fort, are said to have 
thrown there, with the brass guns on top of them. 
Upon either side and immediately in front of the bluff 
upon which the old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty little 
bay, which may once have supplied a safe and easy 
anchorage for the vessels that lay under its protecting 
guns. 

The fortress is supposed to have been one of import- 
ance as a military post at some time, having been built 
upon an excellent plan and in the most substantial 
manner. Numbers of graves still occupy a field near 
by, the remains of the brave soldiers who once occupied 
the fort. The scene is of deep interest to the student 
of history. This island has been purchased by the 
Folger Brothers, and laid out in villa lots A grand 
barbecue and sale was held here in 1889 and many lots 



79 

were purchased by wealthy parties who intend to build 
upon the Island the coming season, and I have no 
doubt this will be one of the most popular resorts of 
the Thousand Islands. It is also used for picnics and 
pleasure parties. 

About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay 
Island, the only one on the right between Cape Vincent 
and Clayton, except Carlton Island just spoken of. 

CLAYTON 

is in the American channel. In the distant front, just 
before landing, we have a magnificent view of Prospect 
Park and hill, a delightful spot for recreation and 
pleasure. No better view can be had of the islands 
and surrounding country than from the eminence of the 
hill. Clayton is our first stopping place. It is a village 
that derives its importance to tourists as being the 
terminus of the R., W. & O. R. R., Utica and Black 
River Division, and here it is where passengers from 
the East generally get their first glimpse of the St. 
Lawrence. There are three good hotels, the Hubbard, 
Walton and the Windsor ;"kept by as genial landlords 
as ever lived, and from the town many fishing parties go 
out daily. The steamer " St. Lawrence " runs from this 
port in connection with the above named railroads to 
Alexandria Bay and other landing places en route. 
Opposite Clayton, on the left, as we proceed down the . 
river, is Governor Island, owned by Hon. Thomas G. 
Alyord, of Syracuse. Next to Gov. Alvord's Isle, on 
the left, is Calumet, five acres, owned by Chas. G. 
Emery, of Old Judge cigarettee and tobacco fame, who 
has lavishly expended a large amount of money for 
comfort. His villa and apartments are quite striking* 



8o 

having i,ooo feet of dockage and a stone wall all around 
the island, 4,300 feet — the only island having an 
elevation of 35 feet and a perfect soil, all productive.- 
He purchased the steam yacht ''Calumet," said to be 
one of the fastest yachts on the river. The next island 
on the left, about 200 yards distant, is powder Horn. 
The origin of this "euphonious" name has not been 
handed down by tradition. On the right is Washington 
Island; on the left nearly opposite, is Bluff Island; 
behind which is Robin's Island. Next on the right, 
over two miles from Clayton, is 

ROUND ISLAND 



The Frontenac, Round Island, opens June 27th this 
year and will remain throughout the month of Septem- 
ber. This hotel has always been patronized by the ^ 
better class of tourists and Thousand Island visitors. - 
This season it will be under the able management of 
C. W. MacAvoy, and I am positive, after looking up his 
record as a hotel man, you cannot regret making a stay 
at the Frontenac. 



front, we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. 
About one mile from Round Island, on the right, is 
Watch Island or "Indolence," owned by S. T. Skinner 
On the left are Bluff, Maple and Hemlock, the three 
pretty islands fronting the foot of Grindstone Island. 
On Hemlock is the Cliff House, owned by Mr. Garrison, 
of Syracuse. The island has been purchased by the 



i,ooo Island Investment Company and is called Murray 
Hill Park. The energy displayed if kept up will soon 
make this the spot among the i,ooo Island^. About five 
-minutes after leaving Round Island, we come on the 
left in sight of Hub Island. A large hotel, the Hub 
House, occupied this sight, bnt was burned in March, 
1884 ; Grinnell's Island and House ; Otsego Camp is also 
on the left. On the rightis Fisher's landing, Robinson's 
Isjand, owned by Eugene Robinson, New York, banker 
and broker, (he broke Drew). This island was purchased 
by W. C. McCord, of New York. Johnson's Light, 
Washburn Island and Frederick Island. Mr. Johnson, 
the original light-house keeper, and after whom the 
island is named, was the man who burned the " Robert 
Peel," the English vessel, in retaliation for sending the 
" Caroline " over Niagara Falls. 

Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper 
end of Wells Island, is Twin Island, owned by J. L. 
Huntington Also Castle "Fannie" Chase owned by 
the Rev. W. Demster Chase, of New York. On the left, 
and in connection with the Thousand Island Park, is the 
bath house, (in a dilapidated condition), where the 
Methodists formerly received baptism, a la Bob Inger- 
soU, with soap. Said to be good for this world, if not 
ereafter. We now land at 

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. 

The boat stops at the western end of Wells Island, at 
a fine wharf and close to a large number of handsome 
cottages. You can tell what the place is the minute 
you approach it. There is no mistaking a Methodist 
Summer Camp, find it where you will. It is always neat 
and clean and orderlv. This is the Thousand Island 



Park, a Methodist resort, opened in 1873. Although 
the scenery is somewhat marred by the great number of 
solemn-faced clergymen strolling about the grounds, it 
is still one of the most beautiful spots to be found 
among the islands. Camp-meetings are held here ; also 
Sunday school and temperance and educational con- 
ventions, and other meetings all through the summer. 
A large and spacious hotel was opened July loth, 1883, 
and was destroyed by fire in August, 1890. The naijie 
was originally Thousand Island Camp ground, but was 
changed in 1878 to its present name. 

Again on our way, the first house on the left is owned 
by Harlow J. Remington, of Ilion, N. Y., whose fame 
and fortune are in rifles. The Island fronting the Bay 
was purchased by Messrs. Ocumpaugh and Furman, tw^o 
of Rochester's favorite business men. It contains about 
thirty building lots. I hope soon to see several fine cot- 
tages erected thereon. Next on the left is Fine View 
House and beautiful cottage. On the left, handsome 
villas line the shore of the island. About half a mile 
from Fine View House is Jolly Oak Point, with its four 
cottages, two owned by the Norton brothers, a third by 
Dr. Ferguson, and the fourth by Hon. W. W. Butter- 
field, of Redwood. From here to Lookout Point is 
about half a mile ; and next is Rood's place, with a fine 
dock and good accommodations for tourists. About 
two hundred yards below is Peel's dock, where the boat 
"Robert Peel" was burned in 1837. This dock was 
rebuilt in 1884. Robbin's cottage, one hundred feet to 
the left, is Island Blanch, owned by E. D. Buckingham ; 
a little below on the right is the farm of Captain Jack ; 
you can see the old saw-mill in a dilapidated condition 
on the bank. Opposite on the left is the celebrated 



83 

Limburger cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations 
held here weekly.) (This "goak" would take better if 
you were just introduced to Limburger for the first 
time.) On the right is Collins' dock ; below, a few feet, 
is Calumet Island and cottage, owned by Oliver H. 
Green, No. 6 Calumet court, Boston, Mass. On the 
right lies the remains of old Captain Jack's Boat gone 
to rest. * * * * Here you are expected to drop a 
tear. Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay on the 
right. The next island on the right is owned by Harri 
son Stillman and is named St. Helena, and has a very 
fine representation of the tomb of Napoleon. Passing 
the bays, we come on the right to Central Park, for- 
merly Grinnell's Point and parade ground, purchased 
by parties and laid out for a park. Several large and 
beautiful cottages were built last season and many con- 
templated for this season. On the left opposite on the 
bluff, is Hill's Crest, owned by General Shields, of Phil- 
adelphia, Pa. Foot of Central Park is Page Point, a 
former wood station for the N. T. Go's line of steamers. 
On the right is 

POINT VIVIAN, 

Point Vivian is situated on the main shore of the 
St. Lawrence River, about two and one-half miles 
froin Alexandria Bay. It was formerly owned by Cap- 
tain W. H. Houghton, and was purchased by Messrs. 
Geoige Ivers, John J. Kinney, Isaac A. Wood, Dr. L. 
E. Jones, R. Barnes, Rezot Tozer, and E. Hungerford, 
in the fall of 1877 (all of Evans Mills, N. Y.). They 
' had il surveyed into forty building lots, with parks, 
avenues and streets. A magnificent dock was built, two 



84 

hundred feet long, and any boat, from a skiff to an 
ocean steamer can land here. 

Opposite Point Vivian on the left is Island Royal^ 
owned by Royal E. Deane, of New York^ firm of Bra- 
mall, Deane & Co. Mr. Deane is a very enthusiastic 
lover of the scenery as well as the hunting and fishing 
in this vicinity, coming to this, his summer home, quite 
early in the spring, and often remaining until winter 
fairly sets in, for nowhere else can he get such a variety 
of fish and game, and have the surroundings so agree- 
able. Next on the left is Shady Covert, owned by 
Editor J. C. Covert of the Cleveland Leader. 

After leaving Point Vivian^ on the right is Curtice 
Point and Cottage, which joins Rose Island by a bridge. 
Here is where Mayor W. G. Rose, of Cleveland, Ohio., 
enjoys his summers. The next is Allegheny Pointy 
owned by J. S. Laney, of Pittsburg, Pa. The fence was 
built to keep the children from falling into the river. 
Opposite on the left is Seven Isles, owned by General 
Bradley Winslow. Next on the right is Ritter's Heights, 
owned by Mr. Frank Ritter, of Rochester, N. Y., 
beyond is Keppler Point, Bella Vista Eodge, owned hj 
F. A. Bosworth, of Milwaukee, Wis. This propert}^ 
Bella Vista Lodge, was sold to Mr. R. B. Chisholm, of 
Cleveland, O. Centennial, now Nah-Mahbin, meaning 
Twin Island or Lakes, is owned by Mr. J. H. Oliphmt^ 
of Brooklyn, N. Y. Comfort, in close pro'ximitrr i'^ 
©)Wned by A. E,. Ckirk, of the Chicago, Ilf., Boarf of 
Trade. His is the largest and finest cottage of the group. 
N'e-xt is H. H. Warner's Island, upon which $50,000 has 
been expended in the erection of his new cottage. 
Beyond this is Hill's Island. This gentleman has 
expended a large amount of money in building s stone 



8s 

wall around the same and in many ways beautifying the 
surroundings. Next on the right is Devil's Rock and 
Oven — owned by H. R. Heath, of New York. On the left 
is Louisiana Point, owned by Judge LeBatte, of New 
Orleans. Next on the left is Craig's Side, owned by H. 
A. Laughlin, of Pittsburg, Pa. On the right is Cuba 
Isle, owned by W. F. Storey, of Buffalo, N. Y. A little 
farther on is Edgewood Park, owned by a Cleveland 
stock company, who erected an elegant hotel, which was 
opened in 1887, and contemplate many changes the 
coming season ; also Edgewood Cottage, owned by G. 
C Martin, of Watertown, N. Y. Next on the right is 
Cherry Isle, upon which are erected several cottagt s ; 
the first is owned by the Rev. George Rockwell, of Ful- 
ton, N, Y. ; and J. T. Easton's Villa, of Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Mr. Easton, of Brooklyn, erected a handsome villa, 
colled Stuyvesant Cottage, which he occupied during the 
season. The two large cottages are owned by A. B. 
Pullman and C. B. Marsh, of Chicago, 111., named Ingle- 
side and Melrose Lodge. Here the Hon. John A. 
Logan and wife were entertained for several days in 
1885. Opposite on the left is " The Towers," owned by 
Mr. W. C. Browning, of Browning, King & Co., New 
York, Pullman, Nobby, Friendly,. St. Elmo, Welcome, 
Florence, Linlithgow and Imperial. This group may be 
seen in the order given ; beyond is Westminster Park, 
Hart's Island, Fairy Land and Deshler. We now shoot 
into 

ALEXANDRIA BAY, 

which is three or four miles long and one and a half 
miles wide, reaching from the shore on the American 
side to Wells Island. The chief feature around here is 



86 

the grand hotels. The Crossmon Flouse, which we 
have everything to say in praise of, will be kept up to 
the first standard of excellence during the coming 
season. The genial host, Mr. Charles Crossmon, will 
be ever attentive, as usual, to his guests, and you can 
rest assured of not meeting that obnoxious class so 
dreaded elsewhere. 

WESTMINSTER PARK. 

Opposite Alexandria Bay on the lower end of Wells 
Island. This island is eight miles long and from three 
to four miles wide. On the other side of this island is 
the Canadian channel of the river, about half a mile 
wide. The lower end of the island is separated into 
two parts by one of the prettiest sheets of water that 
ever rippled against the bows of a canoe. This is 
called the " Lake of the Island," and is connected with 
the river on both the American and Canadian sides by 
a narrow channel. The lake is five or six miles long, 
as smooth as glass, and is altogether too pretty and 
too romantic to attempt a description. 

Westminster Park was bought in 1874 by a Presby- 
terian stock company, and it now has about fifteen miles 
of drives and some fine buildings. It has two long 
water fronts — one on the American side of the river 
and the other on the Lake of the Island, on the Cana- 
dian side. There is a high hill on the island called 
Mount Beulah, though after climbing it I think the 
Hill Difficulty would be a more appropriate name. 
There is a large chapel on the top of the hill, known as 
Bethune Chapel, with seating accommodations for a 
thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet high, (was 
blown down in March, 1885). The name of the chapel 



87 

recalls the fact that the late Rev. Dr. Geo. W. Bethune 
was the pioneer tourist through this region, and until 
his death continued to come here summer after summer 
for recreation. 

BONNIE CASTLE. 

"Timothy Titcomb " (Dr. J." G. Holland, editor of 
Scribners Monthly)^ chose this place as a haven of rest 
and recuperation, and who does not commend his 
choice ? It will be remembered that he died in New 
York shortly after leaving his cherished Bonnie Castle 
in 1881, for his arduous winter's labors. Next is The 
Ledges, owned by C. J. Hudson, of New York. Light- 
house in the distance. 

Immediately opposite is Hart's Island ; back of 
which is Deshler. Next on. the left is 

MANHATTAN, 

the first island on which habitation was attempted. It 
was bought by Mr. Seth Green, the fish culturist of N. Y., 
in 1855. He built a cottage upon it and for several 
years spent his summers here. Mr. J. L. Hasbrouck 
and Judge J. C. Spencer, of New York, purchased it 
from him. They have spent $15,000 upon the island. 
The original cottages built by Seth Green still remain 
and are used by them as dining rooms, etc. Beyond is 
St. John's Island, owned by Judge Donohue, of New 
York. 

Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking backward, 
is Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hayden, of 
Columbus, Ohio. This is really one of the finest islands 
in the river. At a vast expense art has triumphed over 



nature, transforming a barren into the loveliest of green 
lawns. Next on the left is Deer Island ; then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland, one of the most beautiful groups of the 
"Thousand Islands," is located mid-way between the 
north and south channels of the St. Lawrence, about 
three miles below Alexandria Bay, having an area of 
fourteen acres, and is the largest of the '' Summerland 
group," which includes " Idlewild," " Sport," " Ida," and 
"Arcadia." The island is covered with a dense forest 
(furnishing an abundance of shade) and is said to have 
the finest groves on the river. At the extreme north- 
erly and southerly ends of the Island there are exten- 
sive sandy beaches, a great rarity in this locality, which 
are used by the "Summerlanders" for bathing purposes. 
The island is traversed from end to end by the most 
delightful natural avenue, densely shaded and lined on 
either side with a thick undergrowth of wild flowers and 
ferns. The island is owned by the Summerland Asso- 
ciation, a corporation organized under and by virtue of 
the laws of the State of New York. 

Between Deer Island and Summerland is Cedar ; back 
of Cedar is Sport, owned by the estate of H. A Packer, 
who died in 1884. The island, however, will be occu- 
pied this year by E. P. Wilbur, who has purchased the 
Packers' interest. Anthony Point is on the right. Also 
The Ledges, owned by J. C Hudson, of New York. 

Still continuing our course looking to the right, is 
the cottage of Mrs. Clark, of Watertown. Next, Goose 
Bay is the island owned by Dr. Carleton, near which is 
the Three Sisters' Island ; before the Three Sisters is 
Hume's Island. Next, on the left, is Whiskey Island, 



and on the right, opposite, are a number of large and 
small islands, the names of which we will not weary the 
tourist's brain with. 

Goose Bay is really beautiful, if its name is slightly 
homely. It is studded with islands and fishing abounds. 
It is here that Mr. Hubert R. Clark, of New York, in 
one day caught some 300 pounds of black bass, rang- 
ing in weight from i)^ to 6)4 pounds. 

On the right is Lyon's dock and Meeker's Island. 
Next, on the left is Three Sisters Light ; in the distance 
is Lone Star, or Dark Island ; Island No. 10, It is called 
by some. After passing, on the left is a small cluster 
of island shoals. On the right is Chippewa Bay. This 
is a superb sheet of water, where the fishing is a marked 
feature. It is a favorite resort of Ogdensburg people, 
who occupy the contiguous islands. This property, 
" Chippewa Point " and Allen's Park and dock, has 
been purchased by a wealthy syndicate who propose 
erecting a commodious hotel and each member build- 
ing for his own use a handsome villa. I look to see 
this the grandest resort among the Thousand Islands. 
All around the shore are camps, cottages, etc., and 
make an animated scene for the tourist. 

After passing Cross-over Light, and before reaching 
Cole's Light, we come in sight of Union Park. It was 
formerly a Methodist camp ground. It has been pur- 
chased by a Scotch syndicate, who erected a large hotel 
and many pretty cottages. Villas, camps and cottages 
line the shore until we arrive at Gallenas Place. This 
was built for the purpose of having a resort for " a class'' 
I am glad to say do not thrive on the St. Lawrence. 
Places where liquor parties, drunken sprees and such 
like have been started many times on this river, but 
have been short lived. 



90 

Hill Crest comes first, then Fern Bank, formerly 
McDonald's Point, with St. Lawrence Park on main 
land, Crossitt's Agricultural Works ; McCuUough ; Jno. 
F. Wood ; Bowie ; Parker Wilkinson ; Greenmore and 
Kincade. Then we come in sight of R. B. Hather's 
flower and fruit farm, his fine windmill and boat-house 
on the river bank. This gentleman supplies the 
Thousand Islanders and guests at the hotels with 
flowers. He is recognized as the florist of the St. Law- 
rence river. A Hather buttonhole bouquet is quite 
necessary to complete one's toilet, and many times has 
the author of this book become the admiration of many 
on account of the large bouquet which adorned his 
huge but magnificent physique. The next on the left 
is Smith's Island, owned by R. H. Smart, a hardware 
merchant of Brockville. On the main shore beyond is 
River Cliff and many pretty villas, including Bay View, 
Cole's Island on the left, and McLean's cottage. Just 
before reaching Brockville, is H. A. Field's and Geo. A. 
Dana's residence. 

In front of Brockville are the last three of the 
Thousand Islands ; being some distance from the rest 
it is presumable they drifted away, and finally rooted 
here. This, however, was " long befo' de wah ! " 

Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small lively 
American village of about i,ooo inhabitants, a station 
on the Utica and Black River R. R., connects with 
Brockville by two steam ferries. 

BROCKVILLE 

was named in honor of General Brock, who fell in the 
battle of Queenstown Heights in 1812. It is situated 
on the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence River, and is 



91 

one of the pleasantest villages in the Province. It lies 
at the foot of the Thousand Islands on an elevation of 
land which rises from the river in a succession of ridges. 
The town was laid out in 1802, and is now a place of 
considerable importance. The present population is 
about 10,000, 

After leaving the wharf, the boat passes the most 
beautiful cliff on the river, the Palisades of the St. 
Lawrence, on which are erected magnificent mansions 
and suburban residences and villas of Canada's dis- 
tinguished sons. The most prominent of these is the 
son of Sir Hugh Allen, whose residence is really superb. 
The sightseer can observe the winding stairs, boat and 
bath houses and other appointments for recreation. 

Having left Brockville, a magnificent view greets the 
eye ; islands are not now in view ; the river is a most 
beautiful sheet of water, running perfectly straight for 
about sixteen miles with the land on either side in good 
view, for the river is a little over two miles wide. 
Three miles from Morristown, on the right, is a camp 
ground of the Baptist persuasion, mostly from St. 
Lawrence County. Five miles on the left from Brock- 
ville is Maitland. At this point is a prominent object 
known as the old distillery, whose proprietor is said to 
have been worth, at one time, a million dollars, but 
whose cupidity during " America's unpleasantness " led 
him into selling "crooked whiskey," or rather disposing 
of his distillery products in a very "crooked" way. 
Without going into the details, the facts in brief are : 
He antagonized the Canadian government in the matter 
of paying revenue, and in his fight for stupid supremacy, 
he not only lost his distillery, but his fortune too, and 
he and his family became reduced to poverty, and none 



92 . 

of them remain around their former home. It is said 
he first induced his niece to marry the revenue collector 
of the district, that he might carry on the nefarious 
business in collusion and without detection, but you see 

" The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." 

About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue 
stone church, in the graveyard of which rests the 
remains of the founder of Methodism on this continent, 
Barbara Heck. One mile further, on the left, is 
McCarthy's new brick brewery. Half a mile beyond 
is the celebrated Rysdick stock farm, owned by J. P. 
Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the celebrated stallion 
Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. It is a farm 
of about six hundred acres, and is unquestionably the 
finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. The 
thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will not be 
wondered at when it is learned that he is of American 
birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated Labatt's 
brewery and 

PRESCOTT, 

with its nearly 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost 
their grip on the trade of the river, judging from, the 
dilapidated condition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on 
the wharves. The town, however, is handsomely laid 
out, has a fine city hall and market and new post-office, 
and there are many fine private residences. It is con- 
nected with Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, by the 
Canada Pacific Railroad, St. Lawrence and Ottawa 
Railroad Branch, distance 54 miles. Here many tourists 
who desire to visit the capital disembark for that pur- 
pose. We refer the tourists to Daniels' hotel as a good 
stopping place. L. H. Daniels has taken the hotel and 



9,3 

spent $8,000 in improvements ; he is. too well knownto 
the traveling public to need any praise from me. 
Opposite is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749. It now con- 
tains about 15,000 people, and of course ranks as a city. 
It is the terminus of the Rome and Watertown, Utica 
and Black River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake Cham- 
plain railroads. It is beautifully laid out, well planted 
with maple trees, and is called the "Maple City." It 
has a United States Custom House, post office, and a 
new opera house, costing $15,000, six fine church 
edifices, water works, gas works, a fire alarm telegraph 
and two daily newspapers, and possibly other modern 
improvements. Here the Oswegatchie River empties 
into the St. Lawrence ; its waters are of a dark brown 
color. At the lower end of the town are the big eleva- 
tors of the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain Railroad, 
now owned by the Central Vermont Railroad. Many 
tourists start from here in the morning, reaching every 
point in the White Mountains before tea time. 

One mile and a half below Prescott on the left, is 
Windmill Point ; the old-windmill has been turned into 
a lighthouse. Here, in 1838, the "Patriots," under 
Von Schultz, a Polish exile, established themselves, but 
from which they were driven with severe loss. Mr. C. 
Crossmon, proprietor of the Crossmon House, Alexan- 
dria Bay, N. Y., was one of the "Patriots," was taken 
prisoner and for several days took his chances with the 
thirteen selected to be shot, but before his time came 
he was released on account of his tender years, being 
only 16 years old. He is looking hale and hearty 



94 

to-day for one so young. Wc believe this Von Schultz 
was subsequently ' hung by the Canadian authorities, 
and his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. 
On the left, a little below the lighthouse, is the residence 
and farm of W. H. McGannon, the Oldest pilot on the St. 
Lawrence river, the man who first took the "Passport," 
of the Richelieu line, down the Long Sault Rapids, in 
July, 1847. I am also indebted to him for the correct- 
ness of my New Map of the St. Lawrence and other 
information of benefit to me and the public. 

About half a mile below, on the right, the eye may 
feast on the St. Lawrence State Hospital for the Insane 
in process of erection. About one half a million dollars 
was secured by General Curtis for the enterprise, and 
if carried out as projected, this will be the finest grounds 
and hospital in the countr}^ 

Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, 
with Johnstown — not a very important trading post — 
overlooking. This place has a custom house officer, 
commissioner of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the 
district ; but these important officials are concentrated 
in one man. 

We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed 
Chimney Island on the left, oil which are said to be the 
remains of old French forts, battlements, etc. The only 
ruins we have discovered of these supposed formid- 
able defences is an extensive moat around the island, 
twelve feet deep, filled with water. The chimney, from 
which it derives its name, is supposed to be on the 
island, but we have looked in vain to discover it. It 
may be, however, that it has floated down the river ; 
we will speak of it further on. 

In the distance, on the left, are Tick or Pier Islands. 
Some of the finest bass fishing: in the fiver is off this 



95 

old pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the inventor of 
rheumatic victor, and an enthusiastic fisherman of this 
section, last summer caught a black bass weighing 
seven and one-half pounds while enjoying the sport 
around the pier. 

Three miles from Chimney Island, in the distance is 
what is termed " the cut," forming the channel between 
Galop and Moore's Islands. It was the former channel 
of this line of boats, but the Dominion government is 
expending six millions of dollars for the enlargement 
of the canals of this route, and the survey party at pres- 
ent are blasting a channel through the 

GALOP RAPID, 

which may be seen in the distance. The reason of the 
change of channel is formed with an edict of the pilots 
not to interfere with the work of the engineer corps 
engaged on this necessary improvement of excavating a 
fifteen foot channel, to allow larger boats to pass, and 
dispense with the use of the Edwardsburg canal. After 
five years of waiting and trying to accomplish their 
purpose, the scheme of blasting out the channel was 
dispensed with and a portion of the canal was enlarged 
as the current in the river was too strong for boats to 
come up. This is the first and smallest rapid on the 
St. Lawrence river, and as the Phat Boy has termed it, 
"a little one for a cent." I will, however, give you an 
idea of what the rapids are. All the rapids on this 
river are caused by numerous rocks, large and small, in 
the bed of the river, and the swift current of water 
passing over these rocks, causes the fearful commotion 
that you observe. Now, to carry our philosophy a little 
farther, we say the larger the rock and the stronger the 



96 

current the better the rapids. No rocks, no water, no 
current, no rapids! This commotion which you see here 
is caused by a ledge of rocks, five and one-half feet in 
height under nine feet of water. You can see the swell 
and white cap which this rock occasions, and then use 
your best judgment to determine the height of the rocks 
in Long Sault, where we hope to arrive at one o'clock. 
(There are, let me state here, eight rapids on our trip 
to-day, which may be divided into two classes, first and 
second. The first class are Long Sault, meaning a long 
leap or jump ; Cedar, deriving its name from the trees 
in the vicinity, and Lachine. The second class is Galop, 
meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; Rapid Piatt, mean- 
ing in French, flat ; Chateau du Lac, meaning, foot of 
the lake ; Split Rock, derived from a fissure which 
makes the channel, and the Cascade, from its resemblance 
to a cascade). 

On the left, before arriving at the Galop Rapids, is 
the entrance to the Edwardsburg canal. This canal is 
seven and one-half miles in length, and is the first canal 
we arrive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It would be 
well here to say that we only have canals around the 
rapids, or where the current is too strong for a steamer 
to ascend. We here append a tabular statement of the 

ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. 

Edwardsburg canal, y^^ miles long, three locks, 14 
feet fall in the river ; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 2 
locks, II J^ feet fall ; Farron's Point canal % mile long, 
I lock, 4 feet fall ; Cornwall canal, 12 miles long, 7 
locks, 48 feet fall ; Beauharnois canal 11}^ miles long, 
9 locks, 84 feet fall ; Lachine canal, 9 miles long, 5 
locks, 45 feet fall. 



R. P. CANNONy Esq., for four years Chairman of the Com- 
mittee on Agriculture in the Ohio Legislature^ aftd six 
years on the Ohio State Board of Agriculture, writes : 

Aurora, Ohio, March 4th, 1891. 
Messrs. H. H. Warner & Co., Rochester, N. Y. 

Gentlemen : — In the winter of 1885 I was taken with Rheuma- 
tism and other troubles, and was treated for six or seven weeks by 
my family physician. I kept growing worse, and it was very evident 
that the treatment was doing *me harm instead of good. I then 
called another doctor in consultation, and he decided my difficulty 
was due to some kidney trouble, and prescribed and treated me for a 
month, during which time I steadily grew worse. I then sent to 
Cleveland, some 25 miles from here, and called a doctor who has the 
reputation of being one of the best physicians in that city, and after 
examining me he said I had Bright'' s disease in an advanced stage, 
with Rheumatic Arthritis, and that he thought he could help me 
some, but gave me no hope of a cure. He treated me for three weeks, 
and at the end of that time, finding I was no better, he said that my 
disease was absolutely incurable, and the other physicians who had 
been attending me agreed with him. They wanted to try some 
other remedies, and did so for two weeks more, but I received not a 
particle of benefit from them or their medicines. I was then very 
low, and I could not lie down in bed for fear of strangling. As a 
last resort a council of physicians, was held, with the unanimous 
decision that I had not a week to live. \ then discharged them all 
and commenced to take WARNER'S SAFE CURE. The first 
bottle gave me some relief and I began to mend slowly but steadily, 
until 1 fully recovered. My gain was slow but sure. I have been 
doing business for two years past with no trouble of my kidneys to 
speak of, and have not taken more than one bottle of Safe Cure in 
that time . I am now in usual health for a man of three-score-and 
ten, and weigh 185 pounds, being the same weight of ten years ago. 
I give all the credit of restoration of life and health to Warner's Safe 
Cure. Many friends within my knowledge have been cured, or 
greatly benefited, by the use of this great remedy, through my 
recommendation. I most heartily and sincerely publicly recommend 
it to all who are troubled with kidney or liver difficulty, but I would 
add, do not delay as I did, until disease so impairs the system that it 
requires months, and mayhap years, to restore health and strength 
again. R. p. CANNON. 



T 



HE SAGAMORE 



♦ ♦ 



On Green Island, Lake George. 



A LL that is rich, striking and gorgeous 

in nature, beautified by art, to inake 

the scefie sublime ajtd inspiring, has been do?ie. 



Connected with the Main Land by Bridge. 
ADDITIONS : 

Two Queen Rnne Cottages, 

piftg ^ooms for Guests, 

^Vlagnificent Extra Dlr;)Ir;>g t^oonQ, 

]VIusic flail ar;)d Ball I^oonn. 

This Splendid New Hotel is Open to 
Guests From 

June 20th Until October ist. 

IT IS SUPPLIED WITH 

Passenger Elevator, Electric Lights and Bells in 

Every Room, as well as Other Modern 

Conveniences. 

Its location the finest on the lake. The table is excellent, the service 
unsurpassed. Easy of access by Boats from the North or South, Baldwin or 
Caldwell, where trains with Palace Cars arrive from Saratoga, New York and 
intermediate points several times daily. 

For Descriptive Circulars and Plan of Rooms, address 

M. O. BROWN, Lessee and Proprietor, 

Bolton Landing, Warren Co., Lake George. 

N. B.— The Finest Livery in the vicinity of Lake George. 



I?LAZA^ HQIiL- 



A MARVEL OF LUXURY AND COMFORT. 



In addition to being the favorite Fall and Winter Hotel, 

it is most Desirable, Cool and Delightful for 

Spring and Summer Visitors. 




fi Hiw-tn ■-°"^'" f 



LOCATED IN THE 

HeHRT OF^ NE3a£ VORK CITV 

AT Fifth Avenue, Fifty-Eighth and Fifty-Ninth Sts. Overlooking- 
Central Park and Plaza Square. Convenient to places of amuse- 
ment and stores. Fifth Avenue Stages, Cross-Town and Belt Line Horse 
Cars pass the doors. Terminus Station Sixth Avenue Elevated Road 
within half a block. 

The Hotel is Absolutely Fire-Proof. Conducted on European 
and American Plans. Summer Rates. 



K. A. HAMIVIOND, 



L iA 



.lilllllli;i;::'-.^--r;i;j 

lj lilllllilli, 

liiiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip mi 




riuRR/iT Mill Motel, 

Park Avenue, Fortieth and Forty-first Sts., New York. 

(One Block from the Grand Central Depot,) 

!:lii!ii„ 




N. B. — Guests of the Murray Hill Hotel have their baggage trans- 
ferred to and from the Grand Central Depot 
FREE OF CHARGE. 



^ Tme WELbEN 



^i\ 



ST. ALBANS, 



VERMONT. 



^^HE WELDEN is located near Lake Champlain, and is 
^^ becoming an actual necessity to the traveling public. It 
faces a $25,000 park of 7 acres, contains 200 rooms, is 
modern in appointments, and is a convenient "half-way 
house between the 1,000 Islands and the Adirondacks, Lake 
George, White Mountains, &c. 

Bank, P. 0., Telegraph, Telephone Offices 
and Barber Shop in same building. 



Electric . 
Lights and 
Gas, . . 
Steam Heat 
Otis . . 
Safety 
Elevator. 
Baths. . 




Many Roonns 
En Suite. 
Good Livery 
Connected 
with House 
Free Bus. 
Ten . 
Daily Trains 



A summer house is also run in connection with the 
Welden at St. Albans Point, on the Great Bach Bay Fishing 
Grounds. Good boats and skilled guides. Fishing Parties 
every day. 

St. Albans has 10,000 inhabitants, good stores, public 
library and good society, and The Welden is the only house 
adapted to summer travel. 

RATES : [Same at both houses] $2.50 to $4.00 Per Day. 

For further particulars, pamphlets, diagram of rooms, 
&c., apply to 

W. B. JOHNSON. Manager. 



Under New Management for 1891. 



St. Louis Hotel 



Pa.troi7i2e<l by Tbeir Excellencies, tl^e Governor 
Cenerzil of Ca^ija^^Ia^ 2ii7<l Countess of Dufferin* 




This hotel, which is Unrivaled for Size, Style and Locality 
in Quebec, is open through the year for pleasure or business 
travel, having 

/leeommodatlo9 for 500 l/isitors. 

It is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of the most 
delightful and fashionable promenades : 

The Governor's Garden, The Citadel, 
The Esplanade, The Place d'Armes, 
Durham and Dufferin Terraces, 

1,400 ft. long, and 200 ft. above the River St. Lawrence, which 
furnishes the splendid views and magnificent scenery for 
which Quebec is so justly celebrated, and which is unsurpassed 
in any part of the world. 

WILLIAM E. RUSSELL, Manager, 

N. B. — Carriages should be engaged at the Hotel Office to avoid imposition. 



SE^ASON 1891. 



AusABLE Chasm, 

■■-■: V5y;|;^''- 

ONE OF THE 

NATURAL WONDERS 

OF THE WORLD. 



No Lover of Fine Scenery 

Should Omit Visiting It. 



Situated Three Miles from Lake Champlain. 

"M^ EW All-Rail Route direct to the Chasm Entrance. 
Take cars at Port Kent, a station on the 
D. & H. Railroad, and stopping place for 
all boats on Lake Champlain. : ; : : : 



Lake View House Under Same Management 
as the Chasm. 

W. H. TRACY, Proprietor. 







SEASON 1891. 

600 handsomely purnisl^Gd I^ooms, 

At $1.00 Per Day and Upwards. 

European Plan. 

First-Cl^ss Resteiureipt, 

Dining Roon75, CM^ 2iO<I 

Luncb Counter, a ia carte,* 

AT MODERATE PRICES. 

Guests' Baggage to and from Grand Central Station, Free. 

Rooms where Ladies and Gentlemen may Check Valises, 
Coats, Parcels, etc., without charge. 

Travelers arriving via Grand Central Station save carriage 
hire and Baggage Express by stopping at the Grand Union. 

All Elevated Railroads reached from this Hotel. Travelers 
can live well at the Grand Union for less money than at any 
other first-class hotel in New York. 

FORD, GARRISON & CO., Proprietors. 



If You Smoke ^ 

♦ ♦♦♦♦♦ 

Always Use the Best. 

Kimball's Fine Mixtures for the Pipe 

and Cigarette Always Stand 

at the Head. 

Mellow Mixture, Three Kings, 

Turkish & Virginia, 

PePique and Virginia, 

Vanity Fair, Old Gold, 

Genuine Turkish, 

Virginia Flakes, 

monte Cristo, 

Salttiagundi, 
Pot^^Pourri and Piccadilly, the latest. 




Premiere Qjialite Cigarettes, 

Incomparable. A Luxury. Not a low priced article. 
For Sale by all First Class Dealers. 



Wm. S. Kimball & Co., 

Branch, The Anrierican Tobacco Co., 
17 First Prize Medals. ' Rochester, N. Y. 



97 

In the distance, on the left, is the village of Edwards- 
bjiTg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the Edwards- 
burg starch factory, the largest in the Dominion of 
Canada. The president of the company is the Hon. 
Walter Shanley of Hoosac Tunnel fame. He was the 
great contractor who completed that wonderful piece 
of work, and was manager of the St. Lawrence and 
Ottawa Railroad. 

Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next point 
of interest. 

Distinguished among Indian names is that of Iroquois. 
Here, it names a village, formerly known as Matilda; 
but, like all other good Matildas do, she changed her 
name to Iroquois, in order to preserve the name. The 
Iroquois Indians formerly owned this section of country. 
One and a half miles below this village, is the narrowest 
point in the St. Lawrence River, from Kingston to the 
gulf. This broad expanse of water we are just passing, 
and the one we arrive at immediately after- leaving the 
point, are very shallow, consequently holds the water 
in check at the point — the depth of water in the shallow 
places being about 22 feet, while at the point it is 84 
feet. Width of the river 1,140 feet — 180 feet less than 
a quarter of a mile. 

On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is 
Cedar Point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly 
called Hemlock Point, on account of a fine hemlock 
standing there ; but on one fine morning the hemlock, 
the tree and the point all slid into the river, and have 
not yet returned. About fifteen feet back from the 
point is a rail fence, which is outside of the earth-works 
that were thrown up in 1812-13, and batteries were 
erected on Cedar Point. 



98 

On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of 
Canada, with a population of over six millions. On the 
right is the main shore of the United States of America, 
with a population of over sixty millions. When the six 
millions want the sixty millions all they will be obliged 
to do is to walk over and take them. Then will be 
verified that beautiful passage in Holy Writ which says, 
*' One shall chase a thousand and two put ten thousand 
to flight." Sing ! 

This was really a strong point, and was fortified on 
both sides of the river by the opposing parties. From 
the fact of the successful fortification by the Americans 
the Rideau Canal owes its origin. Guns and stores or 
merchandise could not be taken up the river. It was 
conceived by Colonel By, of the engineer corps, that a 
new canal would obviate the difficulty, and all his 
resources were immediately put into requisition, and the 
canal was completed at a cost of $5,000,000. It extends 
from Ottawa, formerly By-town, to Kingston, and is 
still in use. 

Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. 
On the left is the entrance to the Morrisburg Canal, the 
second canal in the chain, but it is not used by this line 
of boats. All tows and sailing vessels have to use the 
canals. In the distant front is Rapid Piatt ; on the right 
is Ogden's Island, the finest wooded island in the St. 
Lawrence. Beyond is Waddington, St. Lawrence 
County, N. Y. In front is this rapid we have just 
named; it is the second one, and is "a. little one for 
two cents." It has, however, eight feet more descent 
than the first, but is only a one cent descenier rapid. 



99 

MORRISBURG. 

After passing the point, Morrisburg comes into view 
on the left — the prettiest village in the Dominion of 
Canada. Look at its churches, public buildings, private 
residences, and hotels (the St. Lawrence Hall is kept by 
W. H. McCannon, and I can say cheerfully no better 
hotel in town), that greet the eye, for we are still in the 
Province of Ontario. At half past three o'clock we 
enter the Province of Quebec. You will have a good 
chance then to compare the two Provinces. Your espe- 
cial attention is called to this now, that you may be 
prepared to scan the change you will not fail to observe. 
Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's Island, which 
was rented by Mr. Oz Doran of the St. Regis Indians 
for one dollar per year, and they come every year 60 
miles to collect one dollar. A railroad bridge was to 
have been completed at this point during the present 
year. Opposite Morrisburg is Dry Island, used for pic- 
nics, etc. 

One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. 
We speak of this here, for it is about dinner time, and 
if you are lucky enough to secure a seat at the first 
table you will lose no point of interest, for it is presum- 
able you will finish within the hour. 

THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. 

It will not be amiss here to state that the meals were 
formerly served on the American plan, in the upper 
saloon, and to give you but a faint idea of the commo- 
tion created by the passengers when there was one 
more person on board than seats at the table, would 
require a volume ten times this size to describe. 
Therefore, please excuse me if I relate by way of illus- 



tration what an eminent writer said on the subject : 
''The waiters, like little puppets, would bob up serenely 
at any time and place, drop a dish or whatever the hand 
contained, and were as soon out of sight. This con- 
tinued for about one hour, while we were seated back 
against the cabin wall, with just space enough for the 
waiter to pass between us and the table. When the 
signal was given everybody made a rush for the table, 
and if the scene depicted could only be described, 
humorously or otherwise, I would like to read it." But 
the writer said it reminded him of the famous picture in 
her Majesty's gallery, "The rape of the Sabines." (I 
have never seen the picture, but presume it is that of a 
beautiful female poised as a central figure, and about 
ten soldiers ready to embrace her on a given signal.) 
Things have changed, however, and this season the 
meals will be served on the American plan, run by the 
company, who have secured the best stewards, etc., to 
superintend the service, to the end that everyone may 
be pleased. The upper saloon will not be used, but 
what was formerly known as the ladies' cabin, and the 
cabin below, has been refitted, containing ample table 
room for everybody, and will be the dining rooms ; 
there have also been added a new kitchen, steam tables, 
etc., which gives the whole saloon as a promenade and 
place of rest and repose for the passengers. I am pos- 
itive the change will be acceptable. 

About a mile below Morrisburg, on the right, is 
Gooseneck Island, so called from its resemblance to the 
neck of a goose ; the upper end is the neck ; the narra- 
tive is about nine miles long. Five miles from Morris- 
burg to 



CHRYSLER'S FARM, 

memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the 
year 1813. The Americans were the attacking pariy 
on this occasion, having arisen early in the morning, 
crossed the river into the little bay, landed and imme- 
diately gone into the contest by attacking the little 
house. The fight was desperate, lasting until eleven 
o'clock, when the Americans, under General Williams, 
were repulsed with great slaughter. The house was 
completely riddled with bullets. It has since been torn 
down and the chimney left as a monument to the battle. 
They retreated in good order, re-crossed the river and 
remained, having abandoned the trip to Montreal which 
they intended. I draw this mild because I am one of 
"God's people " myself. 

Next in interest is Farron's Point, opposite which is 
Croyl's Island. Six -minutes from here to Long Sault 
rapids ; we pass on the left Harrison's Landing. 

LONG SAULT ISLAND. 

At this point there are really two channels, the 
American Channel being on the right of Long Sault 
Island, the rapids forming the Canadian channel, and are 
on the left of the Island. The distinguishing feature 
about the American channel is, while it is swift in cur- 
rent, it has no rapids worthy of note, and the channel is 
used for tows, etc., and all the rafts naturally prefer this 
way, because it would be impossible for them to go down 
the Long Sault. 

In the distant front observe a light-house at the head 
of the Cornwall canal. The canal is twelve miles in 
length, and passes around the Long Sault Rapids. 



The boats are steered from landmarks on the shore 
by that small ball you see on the end of the pole, which 
is the bow-sprit. The target that you see in the dis- 
tance is used by the pilot to get his position in Long 
Sault Rapids. These targets will be seen frequently as 
you progress, and as they all answer the same purpose, 
this reference to them will suffice. 

LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's Landing, on the left, was formerly a very 
important point on this line, as it was the foot of navi- 
gation before the canal was completed, some forty 
years ago. Few changes have taken place since, that 
are apparent to the eye. The Long Sault is the first 
one of the first-class rapids, and the third one in line 
proceeding down the river, and as we set a price on the 
other two you can set your own price on this one. A 
description of these rapids has been given from time 
immemorial ; it does not behoove us to give any graphic 
or colored description of this scene, although we might 
do so satisfactorily, having seen depicted on the coun- 
tenances of thousands of passengers who have passed 
this way everything in nature, from the sublime to the 
ridiculous, as well as between the two, and as each indi- 
vidual's feelings differ, no one description would do the 
subject justice. One writer said : " It was sliding down 
hill on a steam-boat." x\nother said he felt as if he was 
being unglued! A third said he felt as if he had taken 
a large dose of ipecac. Still another, as if he was on a 
ship at sea in a storm. And yet one more was so exhil- 
arated that he imagined he owned Maud S. and would 
like to spend his days on the rapids. Another party 
who had ridiculed the trip a good deal, until the spray 



I03 

began to cover the deck, wetting them to the skin, 
drenching their store clothes, which, when dried, 
revealed awkward misfits, exclaimed that "it was the 
grandest sight they ever witnessed." 

I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer to 
give the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts— no 
"taffy." All the boats of this line are built of Bessemer 
steel or iron, with three and one-half inches of elm 
riveted close to the iron on the bottom outside to 
prevent accidents if we should strike against a rock. 
This precaution was found necessary, because the first 
iron boat that struck a rock became a total wreck. 
With the protection of elm no injury has resulted from 
the occasional striking of the boats against the rocks. 
There is no danger, however, in this rapid, for the water 
in the shallowest place is thirteen and one-half feet and 
we are dravs^ing about seven feet. During our passage 
through all the rapids, we have four men at the wheel and 
four men" at the tiller aft, who assist the men at the 
wheel. Any accident that should happen to the chain or 
the wheel, the pilot immediately goes to the right hand 
of the tiller. 

The Long Sault Rapid is nine miles long ; three 
miles of boisterous commotion ; six miles of current 
and sudden sharp turns. When we first enter the rapid 
the steam on board of the boat is slowed down until 
she gets her position in the rapids, as she draws less 
water than when under full head of steam. We are 
then compelled to put on full steam as the boat must 
go faster than the current in order to obtain steerage 
way. Many suppose that no steam is used through the 
rapids, which is an error. If we were to attempt to go 
down without any propelling power, we would be at 



I04 

the mercy 'of the current of this stupendous agitation 
called rapids. One couldn't tell which end of the boat 
would be first, and it is presumable that this would be 
anything but pleasant to the passenger, for she would 
go down the same as a log ; no one could tell which end 
of the boat would be first — anything but pleasure to 
the passengers. 

When we first enter this rapid the finest view is 
obtained on the right side of the boat. It is expected, 
however, that the passengers will distribute themselves 
equally on either side to keep the boat in good trim — 
the captain generally uses the " Phat Boy " for this 
purpose ; when he is not on board the passengers are 
expected to distribute themselves. The view, .however, 
soon changes to the left, and when nearing the point 
the swell and white caps run from seven to eleven feet 
in height. 

We have already explained the cause of the rapids. 
Now, will any one please explain to me what is the 
height of the rocks which create this commotion, and 
at the same time set their price on this rapid ? After 
passing this point and the swell and white caps that we 
have been describing, on the left is the passage to the 
Canadian channel of this river, which forms Earnhardt's 
Island. On the right is the American channel. This 
was formerly used by boats before they came down the 
Long Sault, which for a long time was known as the 
lost channel. This channel having been lost for some 
years, it was discovered by Captain Rankin, who 
received for that service a magnificent silver watch, 
the value of which at the present day would be about 
$6.50. The first steamboat of this line that passed 
through the Long Sault, was the " Passport " (1890 the 



*' New Passport ** took her place in the line), in 1847) 
and the pilot was W. H. McGannon, who is still in the 
employ of the company. The soundings were made by 
scows and rafts, with poles attached to the sides, of 
8 to 15 feet in length, and as either of these met an 
obstruction and became dislodged or broken off, the 
depth of the water was ascertained and a record made. 
The propelling power of these scows or rafts was oars 
or large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 men as the 
necessities of each required. 

The steamer " Gill " was the first boat through the 
rapids, and went down more by accident than otherwise, 
but it demonstrated the certainty of a channel. 

Earnhardt's Island, on the left, yj^ miles in length 
by 4^ miles in width, belongs to the United States. 
On the right is the main land. St. Lawrence County, 
N. Y. Both sides of the river for the next seven miles 
belong to the United States. The King of Holland, 
who was the arbitrator of the treaty of 181 2, from charts, 
maps, etc., furnished him, supposed that the main 
channel of the river passed around that island on the 
left. He. was mistaken however ; this is the main 
channel of the river, and the only navigable one ; the 
Canadian channel containing only about 3^ or 4 feet 
of water. 

During the next eight minutes we pass three very 
sudden turns in the river ; the first turn is to the right, 
then to the left ; next to the right again ; the second 
turn being the sharpest on the St. Lawrence River ; at 
direct angles turning to the left. Passengers on the 
left side of the boat, by looking backward, have a fine 
view of that portion of the river we have just passed, 
and looking forward see where we are compelled to go. 



io6 

and more easily note the sharpness of the turn. Rafts 
entering the American channel at the foot of the Long 
Sault rapids will drift nine miles in forty minutes, and 
are often throv/n on shore on either side in making this 
sudden turn. After making our next turn to the right, 
by looking in the distance, front, between the narrow 
point, we discover what is known as " The Crab." The 
current crosses here from right to left, then left to right, 
and from right to left, forming the letter Z. Rafts get 
entangled in this portion of the river, and are easily 
torn to pieces. 

There is a ferry boat plying between this point, on 
the right, Macenia Point and Cornwall Point on the left, 
touching at two places on Earnhardt's Island, to convey 
passengers who are desirous of visiting Macenia 
Springs, six miles distant. The steamboat is a side- 
wheeler, two horses tread the power that revolves the 
wheels ; it is therefore a two-horse boat ; they convey 
the steam on board in a bag well filled with oats. The 
deck hand is the cook ; the cook is the engineer ; the 
engineer is the mate, and the mate is the captain ; one 
man supreme commands ; no mutiny ever occurs, unless 
the mule should kick the deck hand overboard -that 
would be a '^ mi//i/y,'' would it not ? 

On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel 
at the end of Earnhardt's Island. Two miles below on 
the right is the last of the American shore on the St. 
Lawrence, lat. 45 ^ N. Some few years ago T was 
presented by one of the firms in the city, with an 
American flag fifteen feet in length, to designate the last 
of the United States shore on this river. Through the 
assistance of a friend at Cornwall, and thirteen dollars 
in cash, I succeeded in getting the flag in position. It 



107 

remained there for about ten days, when a party of St. 
Regis Indians, who - occupy a reservation six miles 
distant, the other side of the rivei — four of them came 
over to the point, filled themselves full of " ice water," 
climbed up the flag-staff and took down the flag. They 
cut it up into three or four suits of clothes, and went 
around this vicinity for about a week as full as a boiled 
oyster, singing " Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled 
up in the stars and stripes, full of fire water ; it was said 
to be the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no 
reason to doubt it. On June 7th, 1887, I was presented 
by Mr. S. Carsley, the leading dry goods merchant of 
Montreal, with another splendid American flag, and I 
hope when placed in position it may wave until I cease 
issuing this little volume, and on white wings, etc., etc. 

That portion of the river on the right is the dividing 
line for five miles ; afterwards an iron fence, or posts 
set at equal distance apart, mark the boundary line. 
The river passing around that way forms Cornwall 
Island, about six miles wide. Rafts enter this portion 
of the river where the Racket river empties in, and are 
here refitted preparatory to being towed through the 
lake. Both sides of the river from this point downward 
belong to the Dominion of Canada. 

In the distance, on the left is Cornwall, a village of 
8,000 people, with the. largest cotton and woolen mills 
in the Dominion. Since the 'protective tariff was inau- 
gurated by the Dominion Parliament, these industries 
have thrived wonderfully, and the town is correspond- 
ingly prosperous. The large round tower is the water 
works reservoir. Just before landing a fine view is 
obtained of both the old and new Cornwall canals, 
Looking at the old canal lock, and learning its dimen- 



T08 

sions, it is obvious why the steamers are the limit which 
the locks will admit, hence if they were five feet longer 
or a trifle wider, they would be compelled to remain at 
Montreal, not being able to work through the locks. 
The new canal which is alongside of the old one, will 
have locks loo feet longer than the present ones in use, 
consequently much larger boats will be able to ply the 
river. The old canal was considered amply large when 
built ; it was not supposed that the travel on the St. 
Lawrence would ever reach its present and constantly 
increasing numbers. 

After leaving Cornwall, on the right is Cornwall 
Island, six miles wide. Just beyond the Island, on the 
right bank of the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian vil- 
lage, which cannot be seen from the deck of the steamer. 
But there is just one point where the church roof can be 
observed for a inoment or so. There is, however, a 
tradition worth relating here : The bell hanging in 
this church is associated with a deed of genuine Indian 
revenge. On its way from France it was captured by 
an English cruiser and taken to Salem, Massachusetts, 
where it was sold to the church at Deerfield, in the same 
state. The Indians, hearing of the destination of their 
bell, set out for Deerfield, attacked the town, killing 
forty-seven of the inhabitants, and took 112 captives, 
among whom was the pastor and his family. The bell 
was then taken down and conveyed to St. Regis, where 
it now hangs. 

During the next ten miles of our trip, the river is 
beautifully studded with islands, and resembles the 
Thousand Islands scenery very much. Many of these 
islands are inhabited ; some of them elegantly laid out 
with drives, etc. Rev. Mr. Dickinson's, called after 



109 

himself, has a dock at which steamers of this size can 
land ; it has a hotel, number of cottages, and is quite a 
gay place in summer. On the left side is Summers 
Town, beyond which is Hamilton's Island. Just before 
reaching Summers Town is the residence of Captain 
Cameron, formerly of this line ; beyond is the magnifi- 
cent villa of Hon. Caribou Cameron, the finest on the 
St. Lawrence. It is built of Ohio freestone and cost 
f 80,000. Hamilton Island, on the left, is occupied every 
summer by camping parties, who come from great 
distances, even from Virginia and Ohio, and remain two, 
three and even four months. Day after day, one of their 
principal amusements is rowing out in their small boats, 
awaiting the arrival of the steamers, and then swiftly 
riding on top of the swell that is occasioned by the 
wheels of the steamer. The scene is exciting and 
picturesque. On the right we now have a fine view of 
the Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York, and 
beyond the Green Mountains of Vermont, except it be a 
smoky or misty day, when the view is slightly obscured. 
It is fifty-six miles from the river to the mountains, and 
intervening is the wilderness of the State of New York, 
known as the John Brown tract, more famous as the 
hunting ground of adventurous hunting and fishing 
parties. 

Continuing our course, we pass three small islands and 
enter Lake St. Francis, twenty-eight miles in length — a 
very picturesque sheet of water indeed ; but the trip 
through the lake is quite monotonous, therefore, for the 
next two hours, the guide, as well as the passengers, can 
"take a rest." This being a favorite route for honey- 
moon parties, there is now two full hours for these 
couples to enjoy the "honey" or the "moon," asseemeth 



no 

tt'i em best. After making this announcement one 
day, fifty-tliree left the deck ; one, however, was an old 
bachelor, who went to curl his hair. 

In the centre of the lake on the left, is the village 
of Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before 
reaching the village, is what appears to be a stack of 
hay, commonly known throughout Scotland as a 
Cairn. It is no more or less than a heap of stones in 
a rounded or conical form, placed in that way to com- 
memorate some especial historic event. This one. was 
built by the Glengarry Highlanders in 1847, to per- 
petuate the memory of Sir John Colburn, who was Com- 
mander in Chief of the Army and Governor-General 
of the province. It was built by putting cobble-stones 
one on top of the other — each individual inhabitant or 
stranger passing that way adding a stone. See Queen 
Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build 
a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, and 
one will get a better idea of how to build a Cairn. The 
county in which this place is located is named Glengarry, 
and is mainly or almost wholly inhabited by the sturdy 
Scotch Highlanders, whose farms are the finest in the 
Dominion. This is the last English speaking village 
on the route. 

Passing three lighthouses, showing that the channel 
across the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette 
on the right, a small French town. We are now 
approaching the boundary line between the Provinces 
of Ontario and Quebec. The lighthouses on either side 
show the geographical divisions. From the lighthouse 
on the left the line runs straight to the Ottawa River ; 
then the Ottawa becomes the dividing line. Just before 
arriving at the foot of the lake, where the river re-forms, 



Ill 

we pass San Zotique ; next Coteau Landing, where we 
call for the purpose of taking on a pilot, 

EDWARD WILLETT, 

whose duty it is to pilot this line of boats through the 
next series of rapids, and the Lachine, also through to 
Montreal ; we are now corning to four rapids ; first, the 
Coteau ; second, Cedar ; third. Split Rock, and fourth, 
the Cascades. The Canada Atlantic Railroad, running 
from Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, to Coteau 
Landing, the railroad ferry at this point conveys whole 
trains to Valley Field, where connections are made for 
Boston and New York. A bridge was completed in 
1890 and the ferry discontinued. The shortest route 
from the capital to those points. On the extreme right, 
at the foot of the lake, is the village of Valley Field. 
It is at the head of Beauharnois Canal, 11^ miles in 
length, which passes around this series of rapids. The 
river, in 11}^. miles has a fall of 84 feet. The finest 
water power privilege on the continent of America, 
except Niagara, is at this point. The largest cotton 
mill in the Dominion, the Canada Paper Co.'s mill, and 
several other manufacturing establishments are located 
at Valley Field. After leaving St. Francis Lake, we 
re-enter the river. With our pilot we go down the small 
rapid known as the Coteau, passing Prisoner's Island on 
the left, and on the left bank is the old French village 
of Coteau du Lac. On the extreme left, at the point, 
is an old French fort, where battles were fought in 181 2 
and 1813 ; the earthworks are still in a good state of 
preservation, behind which is the old saw-mill. Twenty 
minutes (or five miles) from this point to the Cedar 
Rapids, then you will "see der Rapid," that is a Rapid 



112 

—the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids. Opposite 
the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left and St. 
Timothy on the right, the Cedar Rapid, the finest upon 
the St. Lawrence River. Look at St. Timothy, bear in 
mind the view you had of Morrisburg, th'e impression of 
its beauty and thrift, and now you have the comparison. 
How does the former strike you as against the latter? 
It is a historic fact, and worthy of note, that no matter 
what town you arrive at in the Province of Quebec, this 
will be apparent to the eye : the finest buildings in the 
place will be the church, nunnery, school, hospital, and 
the priest's residence. Aside from these, the rest are all 
about alike. You cannot tell the palace residence from 
the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from the 
hotel. The church at St. Timothy has a seattng capacity 
of 1,500 ; the population of the village is 600 ; the 
church is always full on Sundays, and as Mark Twain 
exclaimed, "What large domes these worshippers must 
have to their pantaloons for 600 to fill a place capable 
of seating 1,500." But they come from all the country 
around, being, all of one persuasion. An opposition 
church is so far unknown in these rural parts, hence it 
may be inferred what the extraordinary power of this 
old church must be in the lower province. 

Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding the 
amount of money collected by them from the poor to 
build and maintain their institutions, I asked him how 
it was, and he remarked that the millions had more 
money than the millionaires, and by getting the dollar 
from the poorer classes they had the million, which the 
millionaires never give up. 

Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the 
Cedar Rapid and pass a distance of three and one-half 



113 

miles in the extraordinary short time of seven minutes 
By casting your eye shoreward, while passing an island 
on the left, and just before we enter the heaviest part 
of the rapid, you will discover how fast the boat is 
going. Lookmg to the right, you will see Hell's Hole 
and the greatest commotion in the river from Kingston 
to the Gulf. 

Leaving Cedar Rapid, which is the most picturesque 
and beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and 
one-half miles farther along, and passing Bockey 
Hayes' shoal, which is a peculiar formation in the bed 
of the river, making navigation somewhat dangerous. 
In illustration : One day the steamer " Corsican " 
suddenly lurched to the left, and evidently struck a 
rock ; whereupon the captain said to the pilot, " Edward, 
you are a little too far over to the left." Before he 
could complete the sentence the boat lurched to the 
right and struck another rock ; then the pilot replied, 
"Yes; and a little too far over to the right side." It 
is plain that the channel about here is at least precarious. 
The government engineers, however, are now at work 
removing these dangerous obstructions. The Napoleon 
hats you see in the distance, on poles about ten feet 
high, are the marks which enable the pilot to obtain 
his true bearings through the shoal. Turning to the 
right, we come in sight of the Split Rock Rapid, the 
most dangerous rapid of all. When we speak of danger, 
we don't mean to life or limb, as no person was ever 
injured on this rapid ; it is danger to property that we 
refer to, as this is the only one of the series that has 
cost the company one dollar. They lost one steamboat 
here, and have had others upon the rocks. On the 
8th of July, 1874, the steamer "Corinthian." of the 



114 

R. O. N. Co., when passing the SpUt Rock Rapid, was 
almost instantly enveloped- by a terrible thunder shower, 
accompanied by a hurricane. The wind was so powerful 
that the boat refused to answer the helm, and instead of 
turning to the right, as she should, the wind caused her 
to go straight ahead, and we struck a rock forward 
about five feet high and passed fifteen feet aft of the 
wheel over the same, and then stopped. I was upon 
the right-hand side of the boat explaining to the 
passengers and showing or pointing out to them the 
ledge of rock when she struck. Immediately four 
ladies caught hold of me (whom they thought was the 
boss life preserver). What a position for a nice young 
man. I was about to exclaim as my friend A. Ward 
did when he was surrounded by twenty of Brigham 
Young's wives, " I hope your intentions are honorable." 
However, through the assistance of some friends, I 
procured life preservers for them and was released from 
my somewhat precarious position. In the space of an 
hour most of the passengers were landed by the aid of 
the ship's boats and bateaux from the shore, and 
proceeded by rail to Montreal, where they arrived the 
same evening. I remained on board all night until a 
derrick was erected and two of the boats lashed 
together, and a platform built upon them, when I was 
let down by the aid of the derrick upon the same, and 
without further trouble taken to shore in safety. The 
second line of whitecaps which you see in the distance 
in front, is the Split Rock, a ledge of rock running 
from shore to shore, with the exception of a break of 
about sixty feet, which is a natural split in the rock. 
Formerly there was only a depth of nine feet of water ; 
it was blasted out and now gives a navigable channel 



TT5 

of thirteen and one-half feet. Passengers, by looking 
into the water on the right side of the boat, can see 
the ledge we have been talking about. 

One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the 
last of this series of four, and the last but one on the 
river — the Lachine being the last. The Cascade differs 
from all the rest, being a cutting, chopping sea, in 
which the boats are wrenched more than in any other 
rapid. On the right is the village of Melocheville, at 
the foot of the Beauharnois Canal, eleven and one-half 
miles in length, that passes around this line of rapids. 
The boats of this and all other lines are compelled to 
pass through this canal, as none of them could ascend 
this line of rapids. 

We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four 
miles by land from Montreal, In the distance in front, 
is Mount Royal, or Montreal mountain. The park 
mountain drive, the most famous drive in the world, 
is up the brow of the mountain through a park. On the 
left is II Perot Island, formed by the two channels of 
the Ottawa. The one we now see comes by St. Anne's, 
where Moore wrote his famous Canadian boat song. 
A resident of St. Anne's, Lieutenant-Colonel Dowker, 
says that every spring the freshets of the Ottawa cause 
the water to come down into the St. Lawrence with 
such force as to form an eddy to pass up the point of 
the island and down the navigable channel of the 
Ottawa, and he can take a pail from his house. Chateau 
Blance (where the famous poet Moore resided while at 
St. Anne's and wrote his Canadian poems) proceed down 
to the river and dip up a pail of pure, clear St. 
Lawrence water. Meeting Colonel Dowker, he told me 
that the freshets of the Ottawa in March and April, 



it6 

1885, were the most alarming and disastrous ever 
known. The sudden breaking up of the ice caused a 
jam. Houses were moved from their foundations, 
cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the ice and many 
drowned ; the ice piled mountains high. The govern- 
ment had an agent in the vicinity relieving the 
distressed inhabitants. The heavy flow of ice by the 
freshets in the Ottawa caused a jam a little below 
Montreal in the year 1887, consequently flooding the 
city, causing much damage to life and property. The 
oldest church in the upper Province and old forts are to 
be seen here. 

On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into the 
St. Lawrence. This is not, however, the main channel ; 
the navigable portion of the river is just the other side 
of II Perot. Note the difference between the color of 
the two waters ; they are as wide apart as green is 
from purple. The water of the Ottawa is of a dark 
brown color, caused by passing over low, marshy, peat 
bed soils, and the huge forests through which this river 
passes, the leaves falling and rotting, and swept along 
by the freshets, doubtless dye the water to the peculiar 
color observable. The waters of the two rivers do not 
readily mix, and each are distinct for many miles. 

In the distance is Lake St. Louis, or Lachine Lake, 
15 miles from the rapids to the foot of the lake, where 
we arrive at Lachine, on the left, and Caughnawaga on 
the right. The latter is the residence of the Indian 
pilot, St. Jean Baptiste, who discovered the channel and 
took this line of boats down the Lachine Rapids for 
over forty years. 

About half way through the lake on the right we 
come to Nun's Island. That mound or elevation of 



117 

ground which you see was a fort in 1812, and English 
and American warlike parties met in sanguinary contest 
around here. It commands the entrance to the Cha- 
teaugay River. The village of Chateaugay is six miles 
back. The Nun's Island belongs to the Gray Nuns, of 
Montreal, who have a" hospital for their own sick, and 
the spot is marked by a large cross, emblematic of their 
order. 

Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight of 
Caughnawaga, where we formerly took on board the 
Indian pilot, who has become of historical interest to 
tourists, as it was he who discovered the channel and 
took the first of this line down, August 19, 1840, and 
has been in the employ of the company ever since. He 
is 75 years old, weighs 240 pounds, and stands 6 feet 
high. I am sorry to say that on account of age, the 
company were forced to retire him, and his brother-in- 
law will take the boats through the Lachine rapids this 
year. Many of the passengers imagine he is the only 
pilot who can take a boat through Lachine Rapids. 
This is not correct for we have other pilots who can ; 
but as he is paid for this especial service they resign 
most cheerfully in his favor. He has never had an 
accident and the company believe in holding to that 
which is good, and therefore "stick to the old man." 
It'was his custom to emerge from shore in a small boat 
accompanied by his two sons. They row him to the 
steamers ; he comes on board and the boys row home 
again. He remains on board till the next morning, 
takes the first train for Lachine, where he is met by the 
boys, who take him home in a row boat. The Indian 
pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste de Lisle ; his Indian 
name, Ta ya ka, meaning in the U. S. language that 



ii8 

"he will cross the river," but he does not; he goes 
down the rapids. He has a family of six children, three 
boys and three girls. The girls are unmarried. I state 
this for the benefit of the young men on board, as the 
Indian pilot says he wants a -'heap Yankee" for his 
girls. I am engaged to my Mary Jane, and they can't 
have me. 

A description of Caughnawaga would not be amiss. 
Note the line of palatial residences along the bank 
beyond the church, the windows and doors kicked out 
to give them light and air, the palace gardens in the 
front part of the back end of the house. The laundry 
of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the fence ; it is not 
wash day to-day, as you can perceive. The bath-room 
is the whole water-front, but it is seldom used. The 
water-works is that barrel on the shore. The fair dam- 
sel waving her lily white hand is Mary Jane, my best 
girl. She comes out every day to welcome me, as she 
thinks I am on board. You can get her eye and have a 
flirtation, the same as I have had for years, and not 
make me jealous. That large brick structure is the 
centennial building, built during the centennial year by 
the celebrated Indian Chief, White Kicker. I think 
they used him to kick the windows and doors out of the 
palatial residences previously spoken of. 

Caughnawaga, signifying " Praying Indian " (my 
friend Ben Butler says they spell it with an e), is well 
laid out for an Indian village, wnth a population of 900, 
all Indians ; no whites can live here. 

The finest crops raised in this section of the country 
are raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise them 
with a derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, and of 
no use until it is. This notable quarry is where most 



119 

of the stones come from for the construction of the 
locks in the new Lachine canal — the entrance to which 
is at Lachine, the village just passed at the foot of the 
lake, on the left. 

THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE 

is a favorite resort for Montrealers in summer. The 
inhabitants number about 2,000, but it is frequently 
augmented in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note the 
large buildings, which are the church. Villa de Marie 
Convent, the School and University for the education 
of priests. 

Our pilot being on board, he will now show his 
Injin-uity in piloting a boat down the Lachine Rapids. 
Before reaching the rapids the tourists can see the 
aqueduct that supplies the city of Montreal with water. 

THE LACHINE RAPIDS 

differ from all the rest ; it is simply an intricate channel 
through rock. Take your position upon either side of 
the boat and you will know when we come to the most 
important point, as the boat will be headed direct for a 
little island, which is nothing more nor less than a few 
loads of dirt upon a huge ledge of rock. Keep your eye 
upon the bow of the boat and you will be led to 
exclaim, "why, we are going to strike the island ;" and 
if you are a betting person or a truthful one, you would 
almost swear we could not help but strike ; but when 
within less than ten feet, we make a very sudden turn 
to the right, with a grand pitch or lurch, in which you 
will think the boat drops ten feet. We pass alongside 
of a ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see Which 



I20 

you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; at the 
end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect miniature 
Niagara, a little water-fall for a cent. Do not allow the 
lurching of the boat from side to side, to cause you any 
uneasiness, as there is no danger, because a side wheel 
boat has guards from four to ten feet projecting over 
on each side from the hull, 60 to 90 feet long, so that 
when that flat surface strikes the water by lurching, 
that is as far as she can go, therefore, will always 
righten herself immediately. I have had a great deal of 
sport in this way. When the boat had lurched over as 
far as she could, I would immediately exclaim : " Oh ! 
I am on the wrong side," and proceed to the high side, 
when the boat would immediately righten up and the 
passengers would think I did it, but she would have 
rightened without my aid. Yet I have heard some very 
strong-minded women, after seeing the effect of my 
moving to the high side of the boat, exclaim : " Put 
that big man off ; he has too much weight to be upon a 
boat in the rapids." This is the last rapid built on the 
St. Lawrence, you can have it the best one if you like 
and I will not quarrel with you for it. All I ask you to 
do is to stop at the hotels who advertise in my book and 
tell them I was the cause of your visit, and if they do 
not treat you well I will proceed to sit down upon them 
not mentally, but physically, and they will never have 
occasion to treat any one else badly. Passing the foot 
of the rapids, a first view of Montreal on the left, and 
on the right is the village of La Prairie. The first 
mountain on the left is Mount Bruno ; second, Bellisle ; 
the third, St. Pie. The next and last sensation on the 
trip is passing under 



[ 



121 

VICTORIA BRIDGE, 

the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, 
was built by Mr. Stephenson in i860 for the Grand 
Trunk Railroad, by which it is owned and controlled. 
It is a mile and three-quarters of iron, two miles and a 
quarter with its approaches from shore. It is wholly 
of iron, top, bottom and sides — an iron tunnel or box, 
as it were. There are twenty-four abutments, built 
wedge-shaped (to crush the immense ice fields that 
pa^ through this section, which, previous to the 
building of the bridge, did immense damage to 
Montreal during the spring freshets. There are no 
such things as freshets on the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa 
flowing in some miles above causing such disasters), 
upon which rests the sections of iron. The spans are 
from 250 to 360 feet long each, and the center span is 
abo'ut 60 feet high. The bridge tubes are 16 x 22 feet. 
It contains no wagon road or foot path, and is used by 
the G. T. R. and its connecting lines. The cost of this 
immense work was $6,250,000, about one-half of which 
amount went to fatten the contractors. I was not one 
of them. I mention this on account of my size, and 
for fear some one might think I was wealthy. The 
bridge is constructed of sheets of iron with a two-inch 
edge turned up and riveted to each other. It is 
fastened to the center, loose on both ends on rollers, 
and is provided with a sliding track, so that there is no 
danger by expansion or contraction to passing trains. 
It expands and contracts from three and one-half to 
seven inches. The bridge is kept in thorough repair 
and well painted. The small holes, or perforations in 
the sides of the bridge, were originally intended to 



convey the smoke out, but found inadequate for that 
purpose ; therefore they caused to be erected a line of 
flues the whole length. Now if any smoke remains it 
is carried out in a hand-basket. The two movable 
scaffolds you see are used by the workmen in repairing 
and painting. It is not a draw bridge, and as we pass 
under the center span, and not over it, you need not 
remove your hat if you remain on the deck. After 
passing under the bridge you will have a magnificent 
view of 

MONTREAL HARBOR. 

The points of interest in the harbor will all be 
described to you as we pass over St. Lambert's shoal, 
a very dangerous passage, previous to landing at the 
Quebec boat, where we transfer such passengers as 
desire to visit Quebec. The island you see front on 
the right is St. Helen's Isle, used by the citizens 'of 
Montreal for pleasure, picnic parties, etc. A ferry 
plies between the city and island every half hour, 
from morning until 7 p. m. On Sunday from 3,000 
to 20,000 persons visit the island, mostly French 
Canadians, three-fifths of whom comprise the popu- 
lation of Montreal. In the distant front on the left 
is the oldest church in Montreal ; to the left of that, 
the largest building with the dome, is the Bonsecour 
Market and old City Hall. The new City Hall is 
that large building in the rear with the dome in the 
center and four columns — one in each corner. Across 
the road to the left, that long building, is the Court 
House. At the head of Jacques Cartier Square is a 
magnificent column erected to the memory of Admiral 
Lord Nelson. At the foot of the square lies a steamer 



123 

of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company. 
There are two steamers on this line, notably the 
'^Montreal" and ''Quebec." The company owns 
twenty-one side-wheel boats. The Quebec line has the 
largest boats that float the St. Lawrence River ; they 
will compare favorably with the boats of the Sound or 
the Hudson River — triple-decked palace boats, built of 
Bessemer steel ; one has a capacity of 360 state rooms 
— the other 280. The distance to Quebec is 180 miles 
and the fare on this line is only $2.50 — the cheapest on 
the continent. Beyond, on the left, the two massive 
towers you see belong to the French church of Notre 
Dame. It is not a Cathedral, but simply a parish 
church. (The Cathedral is on Dominion Square, in 
process of erection, and when complete will be one-half 
the size of St. Peter's at Rome). It is the largest on 
the continent, and has contained within its walls, front 
porch and stairways, on the 24th of June (St. John's 
Day), twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the 
Custom House, with the clock in the tower, and still 
further up, the examining warehouse of the Custom 
House, as well as the office, docks and steamers of the 
Allen line. The first stop is at Quebec boat ; passengers 
for Montreal remain on deck, as this line is compelled 
to enter the first lock in the Lachine canal ; the gates 
close and the water is allowed to enter, which raises 
the boat to the level of the dock, when the passengers 
are allowed to depart. Montreal is the commercial 
metropolis of the Dominion, with a population of 
160,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. 
The docks, piers, wharves, etc., of Montreal are the 
finest o.n the continent. It is the second city of 
commercial importance. New York being first. Six 



124 

steamship companies leave here weekly for Europe 
during the summer season, and a large amount of 
business must of necessity be done, as its channel is 
closed during five months of the winter. The water 
front is all lighted with the electric light, so that work 
is carried on during the summer months night and day. 
On top of the revetment wall was built in 1889 a dyke 
or strong barricade ten feet high ; it serves as a check 
to the water during the spring freshets to prevent the 
overflowing and damage of the sudden rise of previous 
years. Having selected your hotel and arrived at the 
same, our next duty will be to see the sights of 

MONTREAL. 

It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean 
vessels, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on 
the Island of Montreal, which lies between the two 
great rivers of the North, the St. Lawrence and the 
Ottawa. The island is about 32 miles in length, 
and at its widest some ten in breadth ; it is so fertile 
as to be called the Garden of the Province. The 
surface of the land is level, with the exception of the 
eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 feet above 
the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the 
city which lies at its base. The settlement of the 
town was originally determined by the first explorer, 
Jacques Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian village, 
Hochelaga, occupied the spot. The permanent found- 
ing of the place, however, did not occur until 1642, and 
in one hundred years of growth thereafter it gathered 
a population of 4,000. It was under French rule until 
1760, when it passed into the hands of the British. In 
1832 the cholera raged in Montreal with great violence, 



125 

carrying off 1,843 inhabitants in a population of about 
30,000. In April, 1849, a political mob burnt the Par- 
liament buildings, which were erected on McGill street, 
and the seat of Government was, in consequence, trans- 
ferred to Quebec, thence to Toronto, and finally to 
Ottawa, where it remains. In July, 1852, a destruc- 
tive fire laid waste a large portion of the city 
burning no houses, and consuming property valued at 
$1,400,000. Notwithstanding these reverses, the city 
recovered, and to-day numbers a population of 160,000. 
Years of industry and enterprise have produced growth 
and improvement in Montreal, such as but few Ameri- 
can cities can boast of, and perhaps one — Chicago — has 
exceeded. At the beginning of the present century 
vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to 
Montreal, and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs 
and barges. Now ocean steamships of over 6,000 tons, 
the floating palaces of the Richelieu & Ontario Naviga- 
tion Company, and ships from 700 to 6,000 tons from all 
parts of the world, occupy the wharves of the harbor 
which are not equalled on this continent in point of sub- 
stantial construction, convenience and cleanliness. The 
old part of Montreal, near the river, has narrow, incom- 
modious streets ; but the new growth of the city toward 
Mount Royal has been liberally laid out, with wide and 
cheerful thoroughfares. The architecture here is very 
fine ; the material chiefly used is a zinc-colored lime- 
stone, extensively quarried three miles from the city. 
The public buildings, banks and principal warehouses 
are solid and handsome enough to adorn a European 
capital. The great wealth of the Roman Catholic 
Church has enabled it to erect many magnificent 
churches, hospitals and convents, always in a very mas- 



126 

sive and enduring style. Other denominations seem 
to have been excited by emulation, and vie with each- 
other in the beauty and elegance of their places of wor- 
ship. Among the evidences of the French origin of the 
city are to be noticed a few curious old buildings to be 
found lingering here and there about Jacques Cartier 
Square, or occupying sites on the eastern part of the 
river front. The old houses are built somewhat like 
fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cellars, wherein 
treasure might be stored or a defense made against hos- 
tile foes, in the days when Indians and whites, French 
and British were fighting and plundering each other. 
The French Canadians in the city continue still to be a 
little more than half the population, and, although their 
language here has not been unaffected by the constant 
intercourse with English-speaking people, it is not as 
commonly supposed, a patois, but such French as was 
spoken by the polite and educated in France, when the 
emigrants who first settled Canada left the shore of their 
mother-land. The naming of many of the streets of 
Montreal after saints and holy things, reminds one that 
its founders were not exiles nor adventurers, but enthu- 
siastic missionaries. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The Post Office is built on St. James street, the chief 
thoroughfare of this city, opposite the New St. Lawrence 
Hall. The reason why I use the word new may be 
asked. Well, the hotel has been newly refitted, the 
corner building purchased, one hundred elegant and com- 
modious rooms added, with baths and closets, electric 
bells and elevators, ladies' reception room, new and 
elegantly furnished suites of rooms added. The old 



127 

proprietor, Mr. Hogan, pronounced by connoisseurs to 
be the best landlord in the Dominion, has assumed the 
proprietorship and has associated with him as manager, 
Mr. Samuel Montgomery, the best choice that could be 
made, as he is an American from the Pacific slope, 
where they know how to keep a hotel. I therefore 
cheerfully recommend you to stop at the new St. 
Lawrence Hall during your stay in Montreal, Starting 
from there, it being the center, every point of interest 
is within fifteen minutes' walk of this hotel. The first 
building to the left is the new Post Office, recently 
finished, with a richly decorated exterior, and every 
internal improvement which modern ingenuity has 
devised. Opposite on the right is the celebrated Ed. 
McEntyre, The Merchant Tailor of Montreal, ii6 St. 
James St. This location has been a. merchant tailoring 
store for nearly a century. Mr. McEntyre has made my 
clothes for the past i8 years; if he can fit me, further 
comments are unnecessary. Tell him I recommended 
you, he will treat you better for it. Adjoining is the 
Bank of Montreal, in the Corinthian style of architect- 
ure, with a sculpture on the pediment depicting native 
Indians, a sailor and settler with the emblems of the 
arts and trade. The corporation occupying this noble 
building is the richest one of the kind in America. It 
has branches in every town of importance in the 
Dominion, and has offices in New York, Chicago and 
London. It issues letters of credit on all parts of the 
world. Its capital and reserve fund amount to 
f 18,000,000. Adjoining it is the Imperial Fire Insur- 
ance. Co. 's new building. Crossing the street, on the 
left hand corner, is the commercial building of the New 
York Life Insurance Company. Adjoining are other 



128 

banks, having their offices on Place d'Arms, — the 
Jacques Cartier, Ontario, Quebec and National Banks. 
On the south side of the square, the great parish church 
of Notre Dame looms up. The dimensions of this vast 
Norman edifice is 225 feet in length and 134 in width. 
Its towers are 220 feet high ; the western one contains 
the largest bell in America, "Gross Bourdon," in weight 
29,400 pounds. The seating capacity of the church is 
10,000. It has recently been decorated in deep colors 
and gold, after the manner of the St. Chappelle at 
Paris, An elevator was added making the tower easy 
of access to visitors. Suspended over the western 
gallery, and near the grand altar, is an immense wooden 
crucifix. This was brought from France two. centuries 
ago, and first set up in the church built on the ground 
now Place d'Arms. Adjoining Notre Dame is the 
venerable Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gateway, 
courtyard and clock. The gentlemen of this seminary 
originally held valuable rights affecting the entire island 
of Montreal ; much of the land yet remains in their 
hands. With the. wealth thus brought to their coffers, 
they have liberally established and conducted many 
institutions of charity and education scattered through- 
out the city. We are now on Notre Dame street, for- 
merly the chief retail street in Montreal. Let us go 
on, we shall soon arrive at the Court House, a fine 
Grecian building of simple and massive appearance. A 
few steps further on the right brings us to Nelson's 
monument, setting forth in bas-relief the various 
victories which the great naval hero won without the 
loss of a single British ship. This monument is in 
Jacques Cartier Square, at the foot of which is the 
wharf of Quebec steamers. 



129 

Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the 
monument, we find opposite to each other two buildings 
which form a sharp contrast. The one on the left is 
the new City Hall, a lofty and ornate specimen of 
French architecture ; facing it is the "old chateau," a 
structure probably thought very fine a century ago, 
when Benjamin Franklin set up in it the first printing 
press ever used in the city. Now the old place is a 
Normal school, and the discoveries of the illustrious 
American are explained there, and let us hope his witty 
sayings repeated and acted upon. We can now take 
our way to the river side, and a block from Jacques 
Cartier Square shall find Bonsecours Market, a vast 
substantial Doric structure. Here, if it be market day, 
we may see a little of the French Canadian peasantry, 
clad in their homespun, and bargaining about their 
fowls, or eggs or butter, with many queer words and 
phrases now almost forgotten in the Normandy, whence 
they were first brought. Next to the market is Bonse- 
cours Church, a rough-cast building with a high pitched 
roof, and with a breadth of a few feet adjoining it, 
occupied by cobblers and cake shops. This church is 
the oldest Roman Catholic one in the city ; its entrance 
is at the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied by some 
worshippers from the adjacent market, who bring in, 
without ceremony, their baskets and bundles. Sus- 
pended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright tin, 
in which usually burning tapers are placed. Returning, 
on the water-front, we note the ships and steamers 
from Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, Rotterdam 
and other ports ; and on the right successively pass the 
Custom House, a triangular building, with a clock 
tower ; the office of the Allen line, also having a clock, 



130 

and the fine building of the Harbor Commissioners. 
Next to it is a curious looking pile, with external hoist- 
ways from top to bottom ; this is the Customs Examin- 
ing Warehouse. Before we leave this vicinity, we shall 
glance backward at the street from Allen's office to the 
Custom House. 

Taking a short journey, still upon the river front, we 
come to the great works of stone-masonry, which give 
to Montreal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so that ves- 
sels of m.uch greater tonnage than the ones at present 
used may be employed in the grain trade. This enter- 
prise is one of a series of canal improvements by which 
Canada strives to retain and increase^ its business as a 
highway for the shipment of western produce to the 
sea-board. 

Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running 
up from the river, McGill, and mark the fine ware- 
houses that adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, 
a little above, on the left, John Murphy & Co., branch 
houses in Glasgow, London and Ottawa. They buy for 
cash and sell for cash, one price marked in plain figures 
on all goods — which are the most reliable, who invite 
you to inspect their stock, styles and prices. Adjoining 
is Mr. S. Carsley, who occupies the six or seven stores 
in succession. Something should be said here relative 
to Mr. Carsley's establishment, which is admitted to be 
the finest as well as the largest in Canada. In doing 
so I shall not speak of the man but of the sterling- 
features adopted as a guide in the past, which gave him 
prosperity and success. To secure the finest and best 
goods, fresh from the factories or trade centers, this 
establishment has its principal house in London, Eng., 
as well as a resident buyer there. It also selects four 



of the best judges of goods required for the home 
market, who go to the trade-centers of Europe two or 
three times each year with "carte blanche" to make any 
purchases required. The imported as well as the 
domestic goods are all marked in plain figures, so that 
each purchaser may know the price ; therefore a child 
can buy as well as a grown person. I cheerfully 
request you to visit this model establishment and inspect 
the styles, goods and prices, and if you do not make a 
purchase it will be because you will receive so much for 
your money that you will be afraid you cannot carry it 
home. Retracing our steps back to McGill street, we 
turn to the right, and immediately in front, just one 
block, is Victoria Square, which contains a statue of the 
Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. James street, 
opposite, on the left, is the Albert Building. Turning 
to the right we enter St. James street. The first build- 
ing of note on the right is the Ottawa Building; on 
the left is J. J. Milloy, the tailor, where tailor-made 
suits for ladies are a specialty. A little further on the 
right is G. W. Clark, the Universal Souvenir Palace, 
where, if you enter, the sight of such rare curiosities 
and splendid souvenirs will cause you to wonder how 
you got in without a ticket ; and a little above is Drys- 
dale & Co., where cheap English reprints of all the 
popular American authors may be had. This is the 
largest book store in Canada. Opposite on the left is 
R. Sharpley & Sons, No. 225, their new store ; you are 
cordially invited to see and inspect their new stock. 
"Alexander's" is a little above, where is kept a first- 
class restaurant, confections, "bon-bons," etc., and you 
can be served with the best the market affords. On our 
way to the Post Office, from whence we started, at the 



132 

corner of St. Peter street is the Mechanics' Institute, 
This building contains a good library, the admission fee 
to which is only nominal, and a very good reading 
room, having on its tables the principal dailies of 
America, the London Ti?nes, the Glasgow Jierald, the 
Dublin Warder, the Edinburgh Scotsman, and all the 
weeklies,monthlies and quarterlies of both England and 
the United States. Strangers can have free access to this 
reading-room, for the period of two weeks, by applying 
to Mr. Hogan, the proprietor of the new St. Lawrence 
Hall. Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the 
Merchants Bank, built in modern Italian style, with 
polished granite columns at the entrance; the interior 
of this bank should be seen; the main office is carried 
up two stories in height and is beautifully frescoed. 
Diagonally across the street is Moulson's Bank, also of 
Italian design, and richly decorated. We are now 
nearly at the hotel again, where we may conclude for 
the present our inspection of the city. 

Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave behind 
us the business streets, and take our way to the upper 
part of Montreal. Our suggestion is, to take St. James 
street to the first crossing on the right as you leave the 
hotel, St. Peter street. ' After two blocks this street 
changes its name to Bleury street. At No. 17 Bleury 
street, we may enter Notman's studio, a large handsome 
building entirely devoted to photographic art. Here 
we may spend half an hour very pleasantly in looking 
over views of Canadian scenery, and portraits taken 
singly or skillfully grouped, representing the spores and 
pastimes of our winter. The chief of these pictures is 
that which shows a carnival held at the Victoria Skating 
Uink eighteen years ago, when H. R. H. Prince Arthur 



^33 

was present. This distinguished representative of 
Royalty was stationed in Canada when quite a youth 
for two or three years — during his absence has won the 
title of Duke, married a Princess and during the early 
part of June, 1890, paid Montreal a visit where he was 
right royally received. Mr. Notman photographed the 
Duke and Duchess in several styles of his art, and 
remarked to me that the interview was the pleasure of 
his lifetime. The photographic marvel spoken of 
above, with others now surrounding it on the walls of 
Mr. Notman, attracted great attention and admiration 
at the Centennial Exhibition. Mr. Notman was 
photographer to the Exhibition, and received its highest 
awards. 

Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach, on the 
left, the Church of the Jesu, with St. Mary's College 
adjoining it, conducted by the Jesuit Fathers. This 
church is modeled after one of the same name at Rome, 
where the remains of Loyola are entombed. The style 
of architecture is the round Roman arch. The interior 
is one of the most beautiful among American churches. 
Over the high altar is a fresco of the crucifixion. In the 
southern transept the sufferings of the first Canadian 
martyr, burnt by savages, are depicted. Leaving the 
elegant house of prayer, we shall continue on Bleury 
street until we come to St. Catherine street. A few 
steps bring us to the Nazareth Asylum for the Blind, 
attached to which (No. 1091) is a most ornate chapel, 
decorated in such a lovely manner as to lead one to 
suppose that it was done to encourage the suffering 
inmates of the asylum to see. 

Next building on this side of the street (No. 1097) is 
the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly 



134 

monument of wealth and munificence, containing all the 
modern appliances for the practical training of youth, 
and presided over by an able staff of professors. If we 
keep going eastward on St. Catherine street, we pass on 
St. Dennis street the immense parish church of St. James? 
with the tallest spire in the city. Near by is the new 
church which is dedicated to Notre Dame De Lourdes ; 
water and relics from her shrine at Lourdes, in France? 
are for sale in the basement. Adjoining the church are 
its conventual buildings. 

Returning on St. Catherine street, we soon come to 
Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England), unques- 
tionably the most beautiful specimen of Gothic archi- 
tecture in Canada. It is of a cruciform design ; 
its extreme width is loo feet. The spire, which is 
entirely of stone, rises to the height of 224 feet. The 
materials of construction are Montreal limestone and 
stone from Caen in Normandy, which latter, by exposure 
to the weather, has changed from almost pure whiteness 
to a yellow tint. On the grounds of the Cathedral are 
erected the residences of the bishop and his assistants, 
the Synod Hall, and also a fine monument to Bishop 
Fulford, the first Metropolitan of Canada. The street 
running on the farther side of the Cathedral is Univer 
sity Street, and No. 82, one block distant, is the Natural 
History Museum, containing a good Canadian collection. 
University street leads us down to Dorchester street, on 
the corner of which is the St. James Club House. On 
the opposite corner is the Free Fraser Library Building. 
Taking Dorchester street eastward, we pass on the left 
St. Paul's Church (Presbyterian). On the same side we 
soon have a view of the vast proportions of the new 
St. Peter's Roman Catholic Cathedral. 



135 

Across the square on which St, Peter's is building, we 
notice a beautiful church, St. George's (Church of Eng- 
land), and adjoining it is the Sunday School, the largest 
and best conducted in Canada. On Dorchester street, 
fronting Dominion Square on Peel street, is the Windsor 
Hotel. A little below on Windsor street is the new 
depot of the Canada Pacific R. R., the largest and 
grandest in Canada. Next beyond on Dorchester street 
is the Victoria Skating Rink, where immense carnivals 
are held in the winter — the grandest in the world. In 
the summer the spacious edifice is used for concerts, 
walking matches, public gatherings, meetings, etc. 

Two blocks distant is the foundling hospital of the 
Gray Nun, a visit to which is thus described : " A long 
procession of the nuns marched slowly into the chapel 
and knelt in prayer. Each nun had a crucifix and a 
string of beads attached, and whatever may have been 
the case with their thoughts, their eyes never wandered, 
notwithstanding strangers were gazing at them. Some 
were young and pretty, others old and plain, but the 
sacred character of their labor of love invested them all 
with beauty. We said the eyes of none wandered. 
Perhaps we ought to confess that the quick, sharp 
glance of one, apparently younger than the others, stared 
at us for a moment ; but it was only curiosity — wom- 
anly curiosity — and what woman has not the curiosity 
to look at me ? Yet that moment was fruitful of 
thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise 
in her place and mechanically follow her more staid 
sisters, our mind went back to the days of chivalry, 
when gallant knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded 
the heavy battle axe in heroic deeds that they might 
win recognition from the proud ladies who looked down 



136 

upon them. And as we thought, it seemed that the 
most gallant deeds that men of this nineteenth century 
might do, would be to rescue young and pretty nuns — 
who wanted to be rescued, from the silence and sadness 
of the nunnery." Again, on our way, we are arrested 
by an immense structure even larger than the institu- 
tion just passed ; it is the Montreal College, which 
educates ecclesiastics, and also day pupils, and is under 
the care of the Sulpician fathers. Two Martello towers 
in front of the college are relics of the times when 
incessant strife raged between the settlers and the 
Indians. Sherbrooke street is adorned with the private 
residences of which the citizens of Montreal are proud, 
and in your drive around the town, previous to or after 
returning from Park Mountain drive, it will repay one 
to drive through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester 
streets. The McGill College, University and spacious 
grounds are the next points. 

As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance 
we observe as we glance up St. Famille street, the 
enormous Hotel Dieu, with a large, bright dome, a free 
hospital for all, under Roman Catholic direction. 

Returning to the postoffice, preferably by Beaver 
Hall Hill, we shall not fail to be struck by the number 
of handsome churches erected there together. On the 
right is the Unitarian Church ; on the left, successively, 
a Presbyterian, Baptist and a Jewish Synagogue. Near 
by, on Craig street, is a towered building occupied by 
the Young Men's Christian Association. 

We are soon at the new St. Lawrence Hall, and before 
mentioning the drive that may be taken outside the 
city, it may be well to call attention to a few places 
near at hand a business man or student may be 



137 

interested in visiting : Tlie Corn Exchange, foot of St. 
John street, the Merchant's Exchange, St. Sacrament 
street, the office of the Telegraph Co., and the Open 
Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier street. Near the 
beginning of St. James street, on St. Gabriel street, is 
the Geological Museum, open daily from lo to 4, 
containing an admirable collection of North American 
minerals, and many interesting fossils. Here may be 
seen what many geologists regard as the most primitive 
record of life, the Eoxoon Canaddense, first noticed at 
Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. Wilson. From the fact that 
the oldest fossil bearing stratum, the Laurentian, is the 
backbone, geographically, of Canada, and because of 
the great variety of rocks found in the immediate 
vicinity of Montreal, this museum is particularly 
attractive to a lover of science. An effort is on foot to 
deprive the city of this collection, and for the sake of 
centralization, remove it to Ottawa. I offer this as an 
apology in case it should be removed. 

DRIVES. 

As I have said two or three times, by far the most 
pleasant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called 
the Park Mountain drive. There are, presumably, two 
roads ; the shorter returns by McTavish street, the other 
by Bleury. The park was laid out by Mr. Olmstead, 
the designer of Central Park, New York, whose achieve- 
ments there were recognized by a statue adorning one 
of the entrances. The river view from Mount Royal is 
delightful, and must be seen to be appreciated. I dare 
not attempt to describe it. A suggestion of how to get 
a hundred pictures of every conceivable shape or form 
of landscape views, containing mountain, plain, river, 



138 

lake, hillside, valley, etc., etc., is to close the eyes, place 
the hands on each end of the forehead, and every time 
the carriage moves a hundred feet open the eyes, and 
you have an entire new picture. Keep this up until you 
have had an elegant sufficiency of view. The next drive 
is around the mountain, and was the best until the com- 
pletion of the Park mountain drive ; it is pleasant and 
attractive, when it includes a drive to the Catholic and 
Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments 
and tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of 
interest. The drive to Longue Point, along the St. 
Lawrence in the opposite direction to the last, gives us 
an entirely different kind of scenery. It takes us through 
the village of Hochelaga, the terminus of the new rail- 
road, the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa & Occidental, which 
runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence, and 
develops tracts of country as yet unbenefited by the 
iron horse. About a mile from the depot is the beauti- 
ful convent of the Sisters of the Holy names of Jesus 
and Mary. Many young ladies from the United States 
have been educated at this convent. The next note- 
worthy building is the Lunatic Asylum. This immense 
house, containing nearly 300 maniacs, idiots and 
imbeciles, is controlled by the Sisters of Providence ; 
these ladies, with the exception of six guardians for 
desperate characters, and a physician, have sole charge. 
They find no trouble in the care of the numerous 
inmates, and by their kindness and tact restore mental 
balance, in all the cases where cure is possible, in a 
tithe the time it used to take in the old days, when the 
insane were treated with harshness and cruelty. On our 
way to Longue Point, the village of Longueuil, Boucher- 
ville and Varennes lie on the opposite bank of the 



1.39 

river. The drive to the Back River is an attractive one, 
and with citizens the most attractive of all ; the beau- 
tiful convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and 
its grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's 
edge. The bridge which spans the river at this place — 
a branch of the Ottawa — affords one of the character- 
istic sights of Canada, the piloting of a raft through a 
tortuous channel. The size of an ordinary raft, its 
great value, from f 100,000 to $300,000, the excitement 
of the captain and his French and Indian crew, with the 
constant perils threatening the whole structure, all con- 
join to make up a scene to be dwelt upon and long 
remembered. Thus hoping the same will be said of 
your visit to Montreal, I shall advise you to visit 

QUEBEC. 

Tourists can either take the Grand Trunk, the North 
Shore or the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co.'s line 
of steamers. Tickets can be procured of the company's 
agent opposite the new St. Lawrence Hall building, 
where state rooms, etc., may be secured. I assume that 
the river is the route selected, and that the reader is 
fairly on his way to that ancient city and former cap- 
ital. Passing a group of islands below Montreal and 
the mouth of the Ottawa River, we soon arrive at 

SOREL, 

forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the 
steamer. It was built upon the site of a fort built in 
1755, by M. De Tracy, and was for many years the 
summer residence of many successive Governors of 
Canada. Five miles below, the broad expanse of the 
river is called 



140 

LAKE ST. PETER, 

which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis River 
enters here. Large rafts are observed here slowly- 
floating to the great mart of Quebec. 

THREE RIVERS 

is situated at the confluence of the Rivers St. Maurice 
and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and 
the same distance above Quebec. It is one of the 
oldest settled towns in Canada, having been founded in 
16 1 8. It is well laid out and contains many good 
buildings, among which are the Court House, the Jail, 
the Roman Catholic Church, the Ursuline Convent, the 
English and Wesleyan Churches. The population of 
Three Rivers is about 9,200. 

BASTICAN 

is situated on the north shore of the river, one hundred 
and seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the last 
place the steamers stop at before reaching Quebec. It 
is a place of little importance. 

In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, the 
country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general 
scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The 
villages and hamlets are decidedly French in character, 
generally made up of small buildings, the better class of 
which are painted white or whitewashed, with red roofs. 
Prominent in the distance appear the tile-covered spires 
of the Catholic churches, which are all constructed in 
that unique style of architecture so peculiar to that 
church. 

During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis 
Hotel, and if carriages are desired the hotel will furnish 



141 

the same. This was made necessary in order to stop the 
imposition that is practiced by outside parties. N. B. — 
Fur Department and Indian Bazaar, St. Louis Hotel. 
Quebec. Tourists are invited to visit the Fur Wareroom 
adjoining the Ladies' Parlor, containing one of the 
largest and most valuable stocks of furs in Canada at 
moderate prices. Ladies' sacques, caps and muffs, etc., 
J. C. King, Supt. There are four splendid drives laid 
out for the visitor and tourist ; a neat little pamphlet 
descriptive of the same, entitled "Views of the City 
of Quebec," will be given you by asking the clerk, 
Mr. J. H. Phillips, or the news agent, of the St. Louis 
Hotel. They are instructed not to give them "/r^<?," 
unless you say I sent you for one or show them this 
notice. 

CITY OF QUEBEC. 

Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequaled scenery, 
is no ordinary or commonplace city, for though, like 
other large communities, it carries on trade, commerce 
and manufactures ; cultivates art, science and literature ; 
abounds in charities, and professes special regard to the 
amenities of social life, it claims particular attention as 
being a strikingly unique old place, the stronghold of 
Canada, and, in fact, the Key of the Province. Viewed 
from any of its approaches, it impresses the stranger 
with the conviction of strength and permanency. The 
reader of American history, on entering its gates or 
wandering over its squares, ramparts and battle-fields 
puts himself at once in communion with the illustrious 
dead. The achievements of daring mariners, the 
labors of self-sacrificing Missionaries of the Cross, and 
the conflicts of military heroes, who bled and died in 



142 

the assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read 
with ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her 
grandest and most rugged, as in her gentler and most 
smiling forms, will find in and around it an affluence of 
sublime and beautiful objects. The man of science, 
too, may be equally gratified, for here the great forces 
of nature and secret alchemy niay be studied with 
advantage. Quebec can never be a tame or insipid 
place, and with moderate opportunities for advancement, 
it must become one of the greatest cities of the New 
World in respect to learning, art, commerce and 
manufactures. 

The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de Cham- 
plain in 1608. In 1622 the population was reduced to 
fifty souls. 

In June, 1759, the English army under General Wolfe 
landed upon the Island of Orleans. On the 12th of 
September took place the celebrated battle of the Plains 
of Abraham, which resulted in the death of Wolfe and 
the defeat of the French army. A force of 5,000 Eng- 
lish troops, under General Murray, were left to garrison 
the fort. The city is very interesting to a stranger ; it 
is the only walled city in North America. 

Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is three 
hundred and forty-five feet in height, and derives its 
name from the quantity of crystal mixed with the granite 
below its surface. The fortress includes the whole 
space on the Cape. 

Above the spot where General Montgomery was 
killed, is now the inclined plane, running to the top of 
the bank ; it is five hundred feet long, and is used by 
the Government to convey stores and other articles of 
great weight to the fortress. ». 



143 

THE CITADEL 

will, perhaps, prove the point of greatest interest to 
many, from the historical association connected there- 
with, and from the fact that it is considered an impreg- 
nable fortress. It covers'an enclosed area of forty acres, 
and is some three hundred and forty feet above the river 
level. The zigzag passages through which you enter 
the fortress, between high and massive granite walls, 
are swept at every turn by formidable batteries of heavy 
guns. On the forbidding river walls and at each angle 
of possible commanding point, guns of heavy calibre 
sweep every avenue of approach by the river. Ditches, 
breast-works and frowning batteries command the 
approaches by land from the famed "Plains of Abraham." 
The precipitous bluffs, rising almost perpendicularly 
from the river three hundred and forty feet, present a 
natural barrier which may be swept with murderous fire, 
and the covered ways of approach and retreat, the 
various kinds and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers, 
and munitions of war, will be viewed with eager interest. 
Among the places of note may be mentioned the Plains 
of Abraham, with its humble monument marking the 
place where fell the illustrious Wolfe; the Governor's 
Garden, with its monument to Wolfe and Montcalm; 
the spot where fell the American General, Montgomery ; 
St. John's Gate, the only gate remaining of the five that 
originally pierced the walls of the city ; the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, with its many fine old paintings ; 
the Episcopal Cathedral ; the Esplanade, from which is 
one of the finest views in the world ; House of Parlia- 
ment ; Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieutenant 
Governor, Laval University, &c., &c. 



144 

The city and environs abound in drives, varying from 
five to thirty-five miles, in addition to being on the 
direct line of travel to the far-famed Saguenay, Murray 
Bay, Kamouraska, C-C-Seeacouna, Rimouski Gaspe, and 
other noted watering places. 

Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of those 
who like to fish, yacht, or shoot. Yachting, in fact, has 
become of late the leading recreation in Quebec. You 
can on those mellow Saturday afternoons of August and 
September, meet the whole sporting and fashionable 
world of Upper Town on the Durham Terrace or Lower 
town wharves, bent on witnessing a trial of speed or 
seamanship between the " Mouette," the " Black Hawk," 
the " Wasp,' the " Shannon," the " Bonhomme Richard," 
and half a score of crack yachts, with their owners. 

Let us see what the city contains : — First the west 
wing, built about 1789, by Governor Haldimand, to 
enlarge the old chateau burnt down in January, 1734 ; 
this mouldering pile, now used as the Normal School, is 
all that remains of the stately edifice of old, overhang- 
ing and facing the Cul-de-Sac, where the lordl> Count 
de Frontenac held his quasi regal court in 1691 ; next, 
the Laval University, founded in 1854, conferring 
degrees under its royal charter ; the course of study is 
similar to that of the celebrated European University of 
Louvain ; then there is the Quebec Seminary, erected 
by Bishop Laval, at Montmorency, in 1663 ; the 
Ursuline Convent, founded in 1836 by Madame de la 
Peltrie ; this nunnery, with the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, which was built in 1646, contains many 
valuable paintings, which left France about 1789; the 
General Hospital, founded two centuries ago by 
Monseigneur de St. Vallier ; in 1659, it was the chief 



145 

hospital for the wounded and the dying of the memor- 
able battle of the 13th September ; Arnold and his 
Continentals found protection against the rigors of a 
Canadian winter behind its walls in 1775-6 ; the Hotel 
Dieu Nunnery, close to Palace Gate, dating more than 
200 years back. 

As to the views to be obtained from Durham Terrace, 
the Glacis and the Citadel, they are unique in grandeur. 
Each street has its own familiar vista of the surround- 
ing country. 

THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF STE. ANNE. 

At the distance of about twenty miles below Quebec 
is the village of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, sometimes 
called Ste. Anne du Nord, and always called La Bonne 
Ste. Anne, to whom is consecrated the parish church, 
erected about four years ago by the Pope into a shrine 
of the first order, in which is a fine painting by the 
famous artist Le Brun, Ste. Anne and the Virgin, pre- 
sented by M. de Tracey, Viceroy of New France, in 
1666, to the church, for benefits received. The festival 
day of this Saint is the 26th of July, at which time 
thousands of pilgrims proceed not only by steamer and 
carriage, but on foot, to this holy shrine ; many walk 
the whole distance from Quebec to the church as a 
penance, or in performance of vows. The church is a 
new building, the old one having been found too small 
for the accommodation of the crowds of pilgrims who 
resorted there. In it are placed thousands of crutches, 
left by those who departed after being cured of the 
lameness and other maladies by the Bonne Ste. Anne, 
whose praises are world wide, for hither congregate 
daily thousands of pilgrims from all parts to be cured 



146 

of their infirmities. Deposited in the sanctuary is a 
holy relic, being a finger bone of the saint herself, on 
kissing which the devotee is immediately relieved of 
all worldly ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and 
misbelief vanishes on gazing at the piles of crutches ; 
there one beholds unmistakable evidence of the 
unlimited medicinal powers of the mother of the 
Virgin. Daily are the proofs of this power ; the 
stranger can see with his own eyes the decrepit, 
the halt, the sore, the lame, the wounded carried into 
the holy sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing 
the holy relic, cured and whole. Many are the scenes 
here witnessed of the despairing filled with renewed 
hope, and the feeble and faint glad again with strength 
and health. Countless are the anecdotes of the 
hopelessly blind and lame returning to their friends 
with sight and firm limbs, leaving behind them their 
bandages and crutches. Incredulity vanishes before 
such evidence, and the sceptic leaves the shrine of Ste. 
Anne with convictions deeply settled in his soul. 
Within three miles of the village are the Falls of Ste. 
Anne, which consist of seven cascades, one of which 
rushes through a narrow chasm, which can be leaped 
by one of strong nerves and sinews, but powerful as 
Ste. Anne is, and devoted as she is to miracles, it is 
doubtful whether even she could save the unfortunate 
who misses his leap. 

The fishing above and below the Falls is very 
good for both salmon and trout, and the scenery of 
that wild description generally characteristic of the 
Laurentian ranges. 



147 

MONTMORENCY FALLS 

are seven miles below Quebec. The road is very 
pleasant, passing through the French village of 
Beauport. Those who expect to see a second Niagara 
will be somewhat disappointed, as far as volume is 
concerned. The stream descends in silvery threads, 
over a precipice 265 feet in height, and, in connection 
with the surrounding scenery, is extremely picturesque 
and beautiful, but does not inspire the awe felt at 
Niagara. On June 8, 1887, with some friends we paid 
this delightful place a visit, and were entertained by the 
hotel proprietor, Mr. T. Bureau, in royal style, which, 
after the tramp over all the grounds and down the 
three hundred and sixty-five steps with the thermometer 
85° in the shade, will always be retained as one of the 
grandest spots in memory. 

POINT LEVIS, 

on the other side of the river, opposite Quebec, 
will interest the stranger very much, immense and 
stupendous fortifications being in process of erection. 
Most tourists visiting Quebec pay the Saguenay a visit. 
The ticket office of this line is opposite the St. Louis 
Hotel, where my genial friend, Mr. R. M. Stocking, or 
his assistant, Mr. Henry Harris, will cheerfully impart 
any information required, he being the agent for all 
railroads and steamboats in Canada or that connect 
with the same in the United States. 

TO SUMMER TOURISTS. 

Visit St. Lawrence Hall Caconna. This elegant and 
spacious hotel, situated at the beautiful and fashionable 



148 

Canadian Watering place on the Lower St. Lawrence, 
one hundred and twenty miles below Quebec, opposite 
the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay River, opened 
for guests June 15th, under the management of an 
American of hotel fame, who for many years has been 
connected with the leading hotels in the United States. 
Mr. R. M. Stocking's ticket office opposite St. Louis 
Hotel will secure rooms for you at St. Lawrence Hall 
Caconna by telegraph without extra charge. 

RIVER SAGUENAY. 

To the pleasure-seeker or to the man of science, there 
can be nothing more refreshing and delightful, nothing 
affording more food for reflection or scientificobserva- 
tion, than a trip to that most wonderful of rivers, the 
Saguenay. On the way thither, the scenery on the 
Lower St. Lawrence is extraordinarily picturesque ; a 
broad expanse of water, interspersed with rugged soli- 
tary islets, highly cultivated islands, and islands covered 
with trees to the water's edge, hemmed in by lofty and 
precipitous mountains on one side, and by a continuous 
street of houses, relieved by beautifull)^ situated vil- 
lages, the spires of whose tin-covered churches glitter 
in the sunshine, affords a prospect so enchanting that, 
were nothing else to be seen, the tourist would be well 
repaid ; but when, in addition to all this, the tourist 
suddenly passes from a landscape unsurpassed for 
beauty into a region of primitive grandeur, where art 
has done nothing and nature everything ; when at a 
single bound, civilization is left behind and nature stares 
him in the face, in naked majesty ; when he sees Alps 
on Alps arise, when he floats over unfathomable depths, 
through a mountain gorge, the sublime entirely over- 



149 

whelms the sense of sight and fascinates imagination. 

The change produced upon the thinking part of man, 
in passing from the broad St. Lawrence into the seem- 
ingly narrow, and awful, deep Saguenay, whose waters 
leave the sides of the towering mountains, which almost 
shut out the light of heaven, is such that no pen can 
paint or tongue describe. It is a river one should see 
if only to know what dreadful aspects nature can 
assume. in wild moods. Compared to it the Dead Sea 
is blooming, and the wildest ravines cosy and smiling ; 
it is wild and grand, apparently, in spite of itself. On 
either side, rise cliffs varying in perpendicular height 
from 1,200 to 1,600 feet, and this is the character of the 
River Saguenay from its mouth to its source. Ha ! Ha ! 
Bay, which is 60 miles from its mouth, affords the first 
landing and anchorage. The name of this bay is said 
to arise from the circumstances of early navigators pro- 
ceeding in sailing vessels up a river of this kind for 60 
miles, with eternal sameness of feature, stern and high 
rocks on which they could not land, and no bottom for 
their anchors, at last broke out into a laughing Ha ! Ha ! 
when they found landing and anchorage. 

This wonderful river seems one huge mountain rent 
asunder at some remote age by some great convulsion 
of nature. The reader who goes to see it (and all ought 
to do so who can, for it is one of the great natural 
wonders of the continent,) can add to the poetical filling 
up of the picture from his own imagination. 

This beautiful trip is easy and facile of acomplish- 
ment as new and magnificent boats, rivaling in luxuri- 
ousness with any in our inland waters, run regularly to 
Ha ! Ha ! Bay, on board of which the pleasure seeker 
will experience all that comfort and accommodation 



ISO 

which is necessary to the full enjoyment of such a trip. 

To the foregoing descriptions we append an extract 
from the letter of a. writer in the Buffalo Conwiercial 
Advertiser^ who has apparently gone over the " ground " 
with much satisfaction. Speaking of the great pleasure 
route he says : 

" There is probably no route in the known world 
presenting more attractions to the tourist than that 
from Buffalo to Montreal and Quebec, via Lake Ontario 
and the St. Lawrence River ; presenting, first, the 
visit to the great Cataract, next, Lake Ontario, the 
River St. Lawrence, and the romantic scenery of the 
' Thousand Isles ; ' then the sublime rapids, increasing 
in grandeur, to the great culmination of the ' Lachine 
Rapids,' and finally finishing with the beautiful scenery 
of and around the falls of Montmorency, at Quebec, 
and down the Saguenay — all combine to make up more 
of the wild, romantic and sublime than can be found in 
the same number of miles and almost any traveled route 
in the known world." 

Returning to Montreal for our trip down Lake 
Champlain and Lake George, to Saratoga, Albany, New 
York and Boston, as most of the tourists have tickets 
to these destinations, the routes need only be mentioned. 
The Delaware & Hudson Canal Company Railroad, 
and Central Vermont have ticket offices in Montreal, 
where information is courteously dispensed by obliging, 
gentlemanly clerks at all times. It would be useless 
here to print the lime tables of the different roads, as 
changes occur too often for such information to be 
reliable. As you are supposed to be quartered at the 
new St. Lawrence Hall, which is in the heart of the city, 
and contains the Grand Trunk Railroad and Delaware 



& Hudson Canal Company offices, where at all times 
may be found Mr. W. H. Henry, the Delaware & Hudson 
Company's genial Agent for the Dominion of Canada, 
directly opposite is the Central Vermont office, presided 
over by A. C. Stonegrave, any time-table required is 
easily obtainable ; a little above on right hand corner 
is the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company. 

ST. ALBANS, VT. 

The Welden is a 200-roomed house with modern 
improvements, located in the center of the most 
attractive region in America. From the Welden the 
tourist can easily reach in a day any of the following 
famous points : White Mountains, Lake George and 
Saratoga, Adirondacks, Thousand Islands, Ottawa^ 
Montreal and Quebec. But the attractions at St. Albans 
are not to be overlooked. Lake Champlain with the Adi- 
rondacks for a background produce those unparalleled 
sunsets which inspired Beecher to say : "The picturesque 
scenery of New England reaches a climax at St. Albans, 
a place in the midst of greater variety of scenic beauty 
than any other I remember in America." The Welden 
faces one of the loveliest parks in New England on the 
south, with the foot hills" of the Green Mountains on 
the east, and Champlain fast coming to be the lake resort 
of America, on the west. A short drive takes one to 
the lake, where will be found a summer hotel run under 
the auspices of the Welden, and fishermen are there 
within an easy row to the renowned black bass fishing 
grounds. 

Under the efficient management of the popular 
manager, Mr. W. B. Johnson, the Welden has undergone 
a wonderful change in improvements, and it now easily 



152 

leads all other Vermont hotels, and we take pleasure in 
calling attention of our patrons to this well-appointed 
stopping place. 

BLUFF POINT, 

one hundred and sixty-four miles from Albany, and 
fifty-three miles from Montreal, is the most sightly 
point on Lake Champlain. The new and elegant Hotel 
Champlain, with its spacious grounds, unrivaled views 
and superb appointments, is situated on this commanding 
promontory. The bluff is about two hundred feet above 
the lake, and the view from the hotel includes about 
fifty miles of the lake and the Green and Adirondack 
Mountain Ranges. There are s^s acres in the hotel 
grounds, mostly wooded, which have been laid out in 
walks and drives. The hotel is 400 feet long, having 
an average width of about fifty feet and a central width 
of about ninety feet. This immense and costly structure 
is surmounted by three towers, one at each end, and a 
central tower 125 feet high. 

It is intended that the "Champlain" shall be the 
model summer hotel of its kind. The house and its 
furnishings are of the highest class, and every conven- 
ience that can conduce to the pleasure and comfort of 
its guests, has been provided. Such has been the rapid 
growth in popularity of Lake Champlain that the open- 
ing of this fine home for summer pleasure seekers sig- 
nalizes an era of interest in this incomparable region 
that has placed its shores in the first rank of summer 
resorts. Trains on D. & H. Co. R. R. leave Montreal 
every morning and afternoon, when passengers, who 
have tickets by that line can stop over at Bluff Point 
Station, and visit the grandest and best of all the 



153 

Northern Adirondack Hotels, just opened this season, 
Hotel Champlain, and resume their journey when 
desired. 

Leaving Montreal in the morning-, by taking the first 
train on the Delaware & Hudson Canal Railroad, if you 
wish to make Hotel Champlain, Lake George, Saratoga 
or Albany, the same day, your tickets may read Lake 
Champlain Co. Steamers, but it is all the same — boat 
and rail belong to the same parties. Should you desire 
to take Lake Champlain, leave Montreal in the after- 
noon and go to Bluff Point or Au Sable Chasm, via Port 
Kent, remain over night at Lake View House, taking 
the boat at 8 a. m., from there to Fort Ticonderoga, 
and then down Lake George, or proceed on the train in 
the morning or by boat. By getting off at Port Kent, 
changing cars to the Keesville, Au Sable Chasm & Lake 
Champlain Railroad, you will soon arrive at Au Sable 
Chasm Station. The busses in waiting will convey you 
to the Lake View House, where "mine host," W. H. 
Tracey, will see that all your wants and desires are sat- 
isfied. I had the pleasure of passing over the above 
railroad in June last, and must confess it quite a novel 
ride, with very picturesque scenery. I am the heaviest 
Director of this -road, weigh three hundred and thirty 
pounds — Direct hundreds of passengers every year to 
pass over it. Hope the General Passenger Agent, A. 
W. Boynton, will note this, so I will not be obliged to 
count the ties next September when I return to visit Au 
Sable Chasm. Therefore, it may be said if you desire 
to make both lakes on the same day, you are compelled 
to le'ave Montreal in the afternoon, and go to A u Sable 
Chasm via Port Kent, and remain over night at the 
Lake View Hotel, which will be found to be an excel- 



154 

lent house, taking the boat in the morning. If tickets 
read by the Central Vermont Railway, you go to Bur- 
lington, where you arrive for supper, and as the boat 
does not leave until nine o'clock in the morning, you 
have plenty of time to see that beautiful city before the 
leaving of the boat ; at any rate you won't have to rise 
as early as you would if you were at Plattsburg. 

MY FIRST VISIT TO AU SABLE CHASM. 

As long as anything shall remain green in my mem- 
ory, I feel confident it will be the impression of that 
charming view and grand natural spectacle, Au Sable 
Chasm. 

Arising early in the morning, if not with the lark, a 
very good second in the race, I was invited by the man- 
ager of the Lake View House to visit the chasm. 
Accepting the same, we proceeded through the gate 
and down the steps which I did not stop to count ; 
but the number was sufficient for a man of my weight, 
and as large bodies move slowly, I was behind the 
rest of our gay, hilarious party, because I remained 
to drink in the beauties my eyes were feasting upon. 
Reaching the end of the chasm, where we take the 
boat for the rapids, I did not have confidence to pro- 
ceed the rest of the journey with my companions (as 
I felt I was. too large a crowd for the boat), but, 
returning, as I came, which very few people do, I was 
more impressed by the grandeur of the scenery — more 
than going down. Returning to the hotel some hours 
after my party, I had stories to tell that caused many of 
them to return and make the trip that I had. If there 
is any view on earth that will please you, it is the one 
obtained from any point at the Lake View House, Au 



t55 

Sable Chasm, looking at Lake Champlain and the Green 
Mountains of Vermont on one side, and the Chasm or 
Adirondacks on the other. 

Before the completion of the railroad, boats left 
Rouse's Point, on Lake Champlain, and a train left 
Montreal to connect ; but as the route on Lake Cham- 
plain has been discontinued from Rouse's Point to 
Plattsburg, really the most picturesque part of the trip 
down Lake Champlain being cut off, most of the 
tourists take the rail in the morning from Montreal and 
can pass through Lake Champlain by rail, or stop over 
if but a short time at Bluff Point station on D. & H. 
Co. R. R,, and visit the grand " Hotel Champlain " 
where all the steamers on the lake land and receive 
passengers every regular trip The rail passing close 
along the lake shore, one gets a very nice view, better, 
as I have often expressed it, than if the parties were on 
the boat, as they cannot see both shores on a boat at 
once, unless the tourist's eyes were cut out on a bias or 
cross, thus enabling them to see both sides at once. The 
rail is preferable and saves time. As it is immaterial to 
me how you reach Ticonderoga, it is presumed you get 
there. Lake George Junction is where you change cars 
and connect for Baldwin, which is a ride of about 
fifteen minutes. You are now supposed to have arrived 
on board the company's steamers " Horicon " or 
" Ticonderoga," and are sailing up Lake George. Now, 
if the reader expects me to describe Lake St. George, I 
shall simply say No ! with a large N. It is too much ; 
its praises have been written and sung for the past half 
century by thousands. I shall with pleasure and relief 
to myself, ask the loan of your scissors. Thanks ; now 
we can comply with your wishes : We have started on 



156 

our trip through the magical lake. It is difficult to 
describe the quiet delight one feels as he gazes on the 
expanse of the tranquil azure spread before him like a 
part of the sky inlaid on the emerald bosom of the 
earth. Peace is in the very air which lazily slumbers 
over the water, while the monotone of the silvery 
ripples rolling over the yellow sands, and the musical 
moan of the breeze in the cone-cented pines, seem to 
carry the soul back to other days. Lake George is, 
indeed, like a work of art of the highest order, for it has 
the quality of improving, the more one studies its 
attractions, and the ever harmonious flow of lines 
constantly suggests a composition of consummate 
genius in which every effect has been combined to 
produce a certain ideal. 

Now, dear reader, I have a favor to ask of you ; read 
this little book as far as Saratoga description com- 
mences ; then lay it asi e, and feast the eyes on Lake 
George for the next two hours, and, if you can describe 
its beauties, do so to the best of your ability, and 
forward to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y., and 
it shall have a place in this work, and you shall have 
the credit for the same ; — the task was too much for 
me. 

CAMPING OUT. 

The lake is a famous camping ground, during July 
and August, and its enjoyments, with bits of sound 
advice, can not be better given than by the following? 
unless you purchase one of the favorite Guides to Lake 
George, Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks — full of 
information, maps and illustrations, published at Glen 
Falls, N. Y., and for sale on all steamers and news 
stands. 



157 

'' The lovely islands are suddenly astir with busy 
throngs. Rocks are decked with blue and gray, the 
tree-tops blush with buntings ; shores put on a flannelly 
hue, and shadowy points blossom out in duck and dimity. 
It is safe to say that in the course of the season a 
thousand people taste the pleasures and overcome the 
difficulties that but season the glorious dish of camp 
life at Lake George. Among the necessaries are a 
light axe, long handle frying-pan, tin pail for water or 
coffee, tin plate, pint cup, knife and fork, and fishing 
tackle. A stove top laid on a fire-place of stones and 
mud, and supplied with one length of stove-pipe, is a 
positive luxurv to the cook. Spruce boughs for a bed, 
with two or three good woolen blankets for covering, 
will be found very comfortable ; a small bag to fill with 
leaves or moss for a pillow pays for itself in one night. 
Flannel or woolen clothing, with roomy boots and a 
soft felt hat, is ordinarily the safest dress. Ladies, 
wear what you have a mind to, you will, anyway — but 
let it be flannel next to you, good strong shoes under 
foot, and a man's felt hat overhead ; take the man 
along, too — he will be useful to take the fish off your 
hook, run errands, etc. 

"Boats and provisions may be obtained at almost 
any of the hotels. Bacon, salt pork, bread and butter, 
Boston crackers, tea, coffee, sugar, pepper and salt, with 
a tin box or two for containing the same, are among the 
things needed. Milk can be obtained regularly at the 
farm houses, and berries picked almost anywhere. Ice 
is a luxury which may be contracted for and thrown 
from the passing steamers daily ; a hole in the ground 
with a piece of bark over it forms a very good ice-box 
A drinking cup of leather, to carry in the pocket 



158 

comes handy at times. Broad-brimmed straw hats are 
a nuisance. A shanty of boughs will answer in absence 
of anything better ; it sounds well when you talk about 
'roughing it,' but it is bad in practice. A tent is best 
and may be made very comfortable with a little outlay 
of money and labor." 

THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The great wilderness of northeastern New York, the 
limits of which we will not try to define, is generally 
known as the North Woods, or as the Adirondacks, 
according to the view taken of its surface. The former 
title indicates merely, a wild, densely wooded region ; 
the latter, a region occupied by all the varied scenery 
pertaining to a most remarkable lake and mountain 
system. This wild region of dense forest, majestic 
mountains, magnificent lakes and beautiful rivers, lies 
in the counties of Herkimer, Hamilton, Lewis, St. 
Lawrence, Clinton, Franklin and Essex, and aggregates 
over 3,500,000 acres, a tract of land of an area of nearly 
100 square miles. This region is the only primitive 
hunting and fishing grounds left in New York State, 
and offering, as it does, rare health-restoring qualities 
combined with excellent deer hunting, and the best of 
brook and lake trout fishing accessible, is yearly more 
than doubling its number of visitors — in fact, the limit 
is only measured by hotel capacity. It is not our pur- 
pose, nor would it be possible in so small a work as 
this, to go into details as to the wilderness, but guide- 
books are easily obtained, and The Delaware & Hudson 
R. R., issues a large amount of information upon the 
subject, which is easily obtainable from their General 
Passenger Agent, J. W. Burdick, Albany, N. Y. 



159 

MY TRIP OVER THE GRAVITY RAIL- 
ROAD. 

In 1876, the centennial year, this country was visited 
by scores, yes, hundreds, of foreign visitors who came 
to our shores in quest of sights. Up to this time the 
Company owning and working the Gravity railroad 
persistently refused any one transportation over it. No 
matter how much they pleaded or petitioned there was 
not anything they could do to move the heart of that 
corporation. At last light came through the darkness ; 
a female lawyer conceived the idea that way back in 
1813, when the road was first built, the right of way 
was given as a public highway, and so she demanded 
transportation or they must abide the consequences. 

I have been a great traveler in my day and have seen 
almost everything on this continent that is worth see- 
ing. I was annoyed more by people asking questions 
about the Gravity railroad than as to any other spot in 
the country, so to the end that I might be in a better 
position to talk of it, I concluded to make the trip and 
see its beauties. Knowing that misery loves company, 
I determined to take my daughter along, to the end that 
she could have the misery while I would be in good 
company. 

We left Albany, N. Y., on Wednesday morning at 
8.30 o'clock, over the Delaware and Hudson Canal 
Company's railroad. Station after station was passed ; 
our eyes feasting upon the beauties of the mountain, 
valley, river, hillside and plain, but we had left that 
most beautiful of all pictures. Lake George, so could 
not drink in the ever changing scenes as we otherwise 
would. We were almost in dreamland when a party of 
hop pickers boarded the train ; a happier, jollier, good 



i6o 

natured crowd of country girls and boys we never saw 
before. The usual violin, guitar, bones and mouth 
organ accompanied them, and while they were with us, 
which was for over an hour, they kept up a continual 
revelry. 

In the beautiful agricultural districts through which 
we passed, the corn fields were almost a bright yellow 
with the thousands of pumpkins that almost hid the 
earth from view. Our thoughts went back to the days 
when we were boys and made hideous jack lanterns to 
frighten nervous females and timid boys. One passen- 
ger remarked to another, " Is the pumpkin a berry or a 
fruit ?" After a little discussion it was left to me, and I 
decided that it made berry good pie to say the least. 

Can't say what struck the train ; the effect of that 
joke, probably, was the cause of the train coming to a 
standstill and suddenly the brakeman called out 
'* Nineveh Junction, change cars," which we did, and 
were soon on our way toCarbondale, running under that 
greatest of stone viaducts, over which passes the Erie 
Railroad, and came to numerous coal pits, coal shafts 
and coal towns, and soon that long-looked-for announce- 
ment by the trainman breaks upon our ear-drum, " Car- 
bondale, change for the Gravity Railroad." This we 
did very quickly, and found we were noticed by a fine 
looking old gentleman we discovered to be the Superin- 
tendent, Mr. R. Manville. After looking us over for 
size, style and general appearance, he took us for some 
one of note, which we were, and ordered out an elegant 
new coach for our sole use, as there was not room in the 
regular. This was one occasion in my life that my 
weight and size helped me to gain a prominent position. 

"All aboard," was the next sound I heard and looked 



i6i 

around to see if I was all there, and we started. Our 
coach being in front, we acted as engine, and soon 
rounded at the first incline. Up to this time no pro- 
pelling power was used, simply our weight and the 
gravity of the roadbed. Now we were attached to a 
cable and taken at the rate of ten or fifteen miles an 
hour up an incline ; then a little way of our own 
gravity, we came to another incline, and so on to incline 
after incline, until we arrived at Far View, the top of a 
mountain 2,350 feet above the level of the sea. From 
that point we struck at what is called the ten mile level, 
but it has forty feet fall to the mile. And here we 
glide without any apparent power thirty or forty miles 
per hour; without the annoyance of the engine, with 
its whistle, dust smoke, and cinders, and so elated with 
our ride that we deem heaven but a little way off ; this 
huge body of mine was for a moment ethereal, imagin- 
ing that I had been flying instead of the train. 

Looking a little ahead I saw the village of Honesdale 
in the distance and a most magnificent hotel located on 
the top of a mountain or bluff in the rear of the village, 
and almost as quick as thought we arrived. Alighting 
from the car we were met by Mr. H. J. Conger, who 
took us in charge and escorted us to the Allen House. 
After a little preparation supper was announced, and if 
ever that word was appreciated it was on that occasion 
by myself as well as my daughter. After doing ample 
justice to that ever memorable meal, I was invited by 
Mr. Conger, and a lady guest at the hotel invited my 
daughter, to take a walk, as they desired to show us the 
village. It was on a Wednesday evening and all the 
different churches were sending forth their peal of the 
bell for the assembling together of the different congre- 



l62 

gations. Mr. Conger and myself were in deep conversa- 
tion and did not notice we were holding the crowd 
behind us at bay by our slow martial tread. Presently 
I heard a remark coming from a lady directly behind us 
to this effect: "Who is that large, fleshy gentleman with 
Mr. Conger?" " I don't know, he must be a stranger 
in town." " Oh, I am sorry, I wish he lived here." 
"Why?" "If he did I would form his acquaintance 
very quickly and invite him up to the house every 
evening six times a week." "What for?" "So he 
could sit down on our bible and press our autumn 
leaves." 

At this juncture we smiled and turned the corner, 
and proceeded up as far as the river bridge, then join- 
ing the ladies we passed through the principal business 
streets and returned to the hotel, after an hour and a 
half's walk. We parted with Mr. Conger, after spend- 
ing a very pleasant hour in the parlor of the hotel with 
some of the guests, when our watch denoted the hour 
of bedtime had arrived. We retired * * * awoke 
if not with the lark, we "got there just the same," and 
about seven o'clock went to the depot to take the car, 
where we were introduced to Mr. William Muir, the 
superintendent of the Delaware & Hudson Canal Com- 
pany at this point, who very kindly showed us the man- 
ner in which the cars were loaded with coal ; also the 
different screens used in selecting the different sizes of 
coal and the manner in which that commodity is placed 
on canal boats. We also saw the working of the steam 
shovel in loading from huge mountains of coal. 

At the time appointed we took our special car and 
proceeded to return to Carbondale. The distance from 
Carbondale to Honesdale is i6 miles, from Honesdale 



i63 

to Carbondale is 20 miles. Entering our car we arrive 
at the first incline, and were soon at that part of the 
road called Horseshoe Bend. This gorge was formerly 
spanned by a bridge 175 feet high. By gravity we pass 
around a curve. The sight of the autumn foliage is 
grand, and the beautiful little village of Seelyville in the 
distance. We arrive at incline number fourteen ; there 
are twenty-eight of these inclines in all. The sight of 
the track below, one hundred cars loaded with coal tak- 
ing their serpentine windings around the various curves, 
run by an invisible power, is a sight once seen, never 
forgotten. . Prompton Pass is the next place of note and 
we arrive at incline number sixteen, the engineer of 
which has made a beautiful flower garden amid rocks 
and coal which is very delightful to the eye. The large 
pond and station next in order is the feeder of the 
Delaware and Hudson canal. Waymart is the next sta- 
tion where trains are loaded, fifty cars each ; this place 
is 1,450 feet above tide water. Next is incline number 
nineteen, over a half a mile in length, on the top of 
which is Far View, where we were met by Mr. R. Man- 
ville, who invited us to take a ride in his democrat 
wagon with two spirited horses attached. Had the 
wagon been any smaller or the horses any less, we 
would not have had the pleasure of taking in Far View. 
After they had procured a derrick and some steps I was 
gently raised into the seat in the vehicle and we pro- 
ceeded on our tour of inspection. Everything that can 
be done, until the ingenuity of man is taxed to its 
utmost capacity for the pleasure and accommodation of 
visitors, has been done by the company. Hundreds of 
seats, chairs and benches are arranged everywhere. 
Observatories, where you can ascend 150 feet to 



164 

enhance your view ; grounds for base ball, croquet, 
lawn tennis ; in fact, everything to make it pleasant for 
picnic excursions or tourist travel has been done. We 
proceeded to the highest observatory, which we found 
was a little too high for our observation on account of 
a dense fog, so that we had to feast our eyes from below. 
The observatory is twenty-six hundred feet above the 
level of the sea, and from its summit may be seen nine- 
teen small lakes or bodies of water, springs as it were, 
upon the top of the mountain. From one the company 
use twenty-six thousand gallons of water daily. A mag- 
nificent view of the Adirondacks of New York, the White 
Mountains of New Hampshire and Green Mountains of 
Vermont, can be had on a clear day. There is some talk 
of building a hotel here for tourists, of which, when 
completed, I want to be one of the first guests. The time 
having arrived to depart, we were invited to inspect the 
huge engine, boilers and fan wheel, used to convey cars 
up and down the incline, and we should advise visitors 
to take in the Engineers' Art Gallery, which is really a 
curiosity. Our car being attached to the regular train 
we proceeded on our way to Carbondale, which is twelve 
miles. Again on our way three miles and a half we are 
at the Shepherd's Crook. The engineer, conductor and 
brakeman are in one person, occupying the front 
platform. He put on the brake and our car stood still 
and we had the pleasure of seeing the regular train 
ahead pass around the Shepherd's Crook. After 
witnessing that novel sight, Mr. Manville told his brake- 
man to catch the regular train, which seemed to us about 
three miles ahead. All he had to do was simply to let 
up on his brake, ano it seems as if we were there, for 
while I was taking in the scenes which greeted my eye 



i65 

we had joined the regular train, and I asked him how 
long before we would catch up to it, and I was informed 
we were already coupled on ; "for," said he, "the cows 
for the whole village of Carbondale pasture upon this 
hillside, and we have them educated for all the regular 
trains but not for "specials, and for that reason I didn't 
care to run over any of the cattle and be accessory after 
the fact of their demise, so we coupled on to save 
trouble and expense." Looking out I saw a woman in 
charge of about eight or ten cows, and truthfully she 
was the homeliest person I ever saw. I asked him if 
they had female herderesses here, and he remarked 
"yes." 1 then said they must use that one's face to 
wean the calves by. 

"Carbondale, change cars." 

After bidding everybody good-bye we took our seat 
in the D. & H. Company's regular train for Albany, 
arriving at five o'clock and thirty minutes in the after- 
noon. 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Every American, or tourist, should see it at least 
once. It is the largest of the Adirondack chain, 346 
feet above the sea, and 247 above Champlain, thirty- 
five miles long and from two to four in width, and fed 
from mountain brooks and springs coming up from the 
bottom, making it transparent. It is beautifully dotted 
with over 200 islands, and surrounded by high moun- 
tains, some rising 2,000 feet above the water, clothed 
with foliage and dotted with villas and picturesque 
camps ; one feels like leaving the boat and remaining in 
this bower of enchantment. The steamers touch at all 
points of note, and arrive at the Sagamore Hotel, where 
you can, if you desire, remain over. 



i66 

THE SAGAMORE 

stands among the trees at the south end of the Green 
Island, 40 feet above the level of the lake, commanding 
from its upper windows the grand scenery of the 
Narrows on the east, the broad lake and bays at the 
south and west, and the mountains on every side. 

The buildings comprising the Sagamore are of 
uncertain number, of varying levels, and picturesque in 
their grouping. The style is that popularly supposed 
to belong to the sixteenth century, — rising one back of 
another, with short flights of steps, between, connected 
by open corridors with charming outlooks ; its varied 
porticos, balconies and gables admirably displayed in 
colors that harmonize richly with their native surround- 
ings. 

Its interior finish is plain, but rich and substantial, 
showing massive beams, fireplaces of artistic designs 
in terra cotta, tinted walls and joiner work in native 
wood. 

The furnishing is all that can be desired ; chairs and 
sofas, multiform and inviting, of different woods, pol- 
ished, and of willow ware ; the upholstery bright and 
cheerful ; the beds of the best kind procurable ; in 
short, no effort has been spared nor cost considered in 
making this the ideal hotel. 

The main hall and office, and the principal parlor 
and reading and smoking rooms are on the main floor, 
looking out upon a semi-circular lawn, with flower bor- 
dered walks, leading down to the steamboat landing, 
and revealing between its stately trees delightful vistas 
of lake and islands beyond. 

In the office are electric bells, with a system of wires 
running to the various rooms, placing them in imme- 
diate communication with base of supplies. 



i67 

Telegraphic connection is made with the Western 
Union system at Caldwell by special wire in the office. 

The news and notion stand supplies daily papers, 
periodicals, guides, maps, photographs, fine candies and 
fancy goods. 

An elevator is here for the service of such as may 
prefer it to the short flight of steps by which the upper 
floors are reached. 

The Edison Incandescent Light is used throughout 
the entire establishment. 

Spring water is brought from the mountains two miles 
away and 500 feet above the lake, and carried to every 
floor, where hose and pipe attachment affords the best 
of protection against possible danger from fire. - 

The sleeping rooms are spacious — many of them en 
suite, with private balconies and outside as well as hall 
entrances. 

The sanitary conditions are perfect, made so by the 
employment of the most approved methods of drain- 
age, for the application of which the location is admi- 
rably adapted. 

Baths, hot and cold, may be had at the hotel and 
bath-houses outside ; while those who like open air and 
water for the sport, will find retired places and sandy 
beach near by. 

Amusements : billiards and bowling within, and cro- 
quet, tennis, polo and archery without. 

Riding and driving are provided for in the extensive 
stables on the island, and accommodations for those 
who may bring their own equipage. The drives are 
many and delightful. 

Fishing, rowing, sailing or " steaming " are all made 
attractive by respectful attendants, and a fleet of boats 



i68 

ranging from the tiny skiff to the comfortable steam 
yacht, 

A large hall for music and social gatherings has been 
built, connected with the main building at its highest 
point. Two new cottages also, and twenty-six new and 
desirable sleeping rooms have been added. 

The line steamers land on every regular trip through 
the lake, connecting with the trains at each end, and run 
from Caldwell to the Sagamore dock on the arrival of 
the evening train from the south. 

The proprietor, Mr. M. O. Brown, long and popularly 
known as a hotel man on the lake, will spare no pains to 
make your sojourn attractive in all respects. 

The cuisine is perfect. The Chef and assistants are 
frofn the leading New York hotels. The head waiter, 
with his excellent and full corps of carefully trained 
and experienced waiters, the best that could be 
obtained. 

As I have cheerfully recommended tourists for the 
last seven years to make a short stay at least at this 
delightful resort, the Sagamore (it is as near Heaven 
as many mortals will reach), get within its portals if 
but for a short time, that you may realize its beauties, 
then you can thank me for the suggestion, as many 
others have, and I will be well repaid. Connections 
are, however, arranged for, and you can if you wish, 
leave immediately for Caldwell. 

FACILITIES FOR LAKE TRAVEL. 

The Champlain Transportation Company run a 
regular line of steamboats the entire length of the lake, 
making three round trips daily (except Sunday), and 
stopping at all way landings. The " Horicon " of this 



169 

line, making the regular connections with the railroad, 
is a fine side-wheel steamer 203 feet long and 52 
feet wide over all, and is 643 tons burden, and 
will accommodate comfortably 1,000 people. I can 
truthfully say that upon no inland lake in the world is 
the passenger service so promptly and regularly done, 
and passengers so elegantly cared for as upon Lake 
George. 

Caldwell is the railroad terminus, and is the largest 
town on the lake. It is situated at the extreme 
southern end, or head of the lake (the waters flowing 
north and emptying into Lake Champlain, immediately 
at the ruins of old Fort Ticonderoga.) At Caldwell is 
located the handsome dock and station building of the 
railroad company, whose trains run down the dock 
immediately to the steamers — one of which leaves 
upon the arrival of each train, for all points down the 
lake. The railroad was extended to this point in 
1883, thus saving at least one hour of time, and 
better facilities for the accommodation of tourists and 
pleasure travel. The Adirondack R. R. has been 
purchased by the D. & H. Co., and hereafter will be 
known as the Adirondack Division of the D. & H. 
system. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

the focus to which the fashionable world of the United 
States, indeed, of Europe, is annually drawn. Here are 
intellectual men, stylish men, the beaux of society, and 
the man of the world ; ladies of social rank, the man- 
aging mother, the marriageable daughters, the fluttering 
bee of fashion, and the more gentle bird of beauty, are 
found amidst the throng, for Saratoga is cosmopolitan. 



As a gentleman said to me one day, " I can meet more 
of my friends in one hour during the season at Saratoga 
than I could at home in a week." The ladies here have 
ample opportunities to display their peculiar charms 
and graces. The sporting gentleman can also find an 
opportunity to gratify his peculiar tastes ; the philosopher 
may study human nature ; the invalid find perfect health ; 
in fact every one at Saratoga finds that peculiar pleasure 
they most desire. Of all the elegant hotels which here 
abound we have not space to mention. I will, therefore, 
speak of those that I know, the United States and the 
Adelphi, confident they can please any one paying them 
a visit. 

THE UNITED STATES HOTEL, SARA- 
TOGA SPRINGS. 

That magnificent Saratoga Palace, the United States 
Hotel, will open the present season on June 25th, and 
entertain many of the world's most distinguished people 
until October ist next. Messrs. Tompkins, Gage & 
Perry, the proprietors, form a trio whose reputation as 
hotel men is not excelled anywhere. During the 
season each gives his personal attention to a department 
of the hotel, even to the minutest detail, and the result 
is, that their concert of action has won for them fame 
and fortune. Workmen are employed throughout the 
year. Every winter the plumbing, furniture, in fact 
everything in the interior of the hotel, is thoroughly 
examined by the corps of competent men who repair 
and improve where necessary, and each spring the 
exterior of the building, and park, walks, fountains, 
etc., receive the same careful attention. Just now the 
outside of the hotel is being repainted. " Apropos " of 



this, a visitor said to me as we watclied the painters 
industriously applying the paint, '' Why, it seems almost 
a waste of money to paint that hotel this year, as it 
scarcely seems necessary ; " and then he added, " Every- 
thing must be the pink of neatness and perfection about 
that hotel." He was right, and struck the key note of 
the policy adopted by those successful hotel proprietors. 
One of the most notable features of this hotel is the 
service. Even the hypercritical guest cannot find a 
loophole in this department through which to make a 
complaint. Each succeeding season, with but few 
exceptions, occasioned, perhaps, by sickness or death, 
the same competent staff returns to take up their old 
duties. I met Mr. Hiram Tompkins and Dr. Perry, 
who had just returned from New York, and they said, 
" The prospects of the season are excellent. We have 
already rented over two-thirds of our cottages for the 
summer, which to this date is without parallel in the 
past ; of all the departments of the hotel the same can 
be said. Yes ! Stub's Orchestra will return, and about 
all of the old help." But little if anything can be said 
here to add luster to this world-famed hotel. Make it 
your home while in Saratoga and you will have the 
satisfaction and consolation that no other hotel can 
give. 

Next comes the Adelphi Hotel— this new, comfort- 
able and petite hotel is located on Broadway, contains 
over one hundred rooms, is convenient to the springs, 
etc., etc. Its piazza is elevated one story above the 
street and commands a splendid view up and down 
Broadway, as well as Phila street, opposite. The 
proprietors, Messrs. Hayes and Brushnihan, are too 
well known to the traveling community to need one 



172 

word from me, and the gentlemen connected with the 
office are of their own selection, and as they are young, 
like the proprietors, and brimming full of hotel business, 
and attend to the every want of their guests, you need 
not fear but you will be well cared for at the Adelphi. 
It s "my home" when in Saratoga; that is all I 
have to say against it. Under the Adelphi Hotel is 
the office of the Saratoga Kissengen Company. The 
Kissengen is "The King" of table waters. Drop in 
and examine its qualities ; I feel confident you will be 
pleased. It is the universal opinion of tourists that no 
watering place on the continent, of like size, can 
compare with the unwearying charms of Saratoga. The 
hotel arrivals some days are upwards of one thousand. 
One might become almost tired of the world and 
vote every other place a bore, but Saratoga scenery, 
Saratoga atmosphere and Saratoga life would still 
charm by its ever pleasing peculiarities. 

Mount McGregor, the place selected above all others 
for its pure air, etc., etc., as a residence for our hero. 
Gen. U. S. Grant, who arrived at Saratoga on June i6th, 
1885 (during my stay for health), so I had the pleasure 
of seeing the old veteran while he was being conveyed 
to the Mount McGregor R. R., which ascends to the 
top of the mountain, where visitors can go almost every 
hour and get a view that will well repay them. I left 
Saratoga on the morning of the 19th of June, and was 
informed by the conductor of the Mt. McGregor R. R., 
that General Grant rested well the previous night and 
slept ten hours. As all are aware, our hero departed this 
life July 23d. The cottage, however, is kept in the 
same manner as the day he left it, and will become an 
historic place for visitors who come to Saratoga from 
all parts of the world. 



173 

It is a fact, and worthy of note here, that for the past 
four years there has not been one day during the months 
of July and August, but they have had a heavy frost on 
Mount McGregor. I can vouch for the truthfulness of 
this item because I know him. He is the conductor of 
the train on the Mt. McGregor R. R., weighs 280 pounds, 
and his name is Frost. (He was a broad-gauge con- 
ductor on a narrow-gauge railroad). Mr. Frost having 
accepted the agency for one of Saratoga's celebrated 
springs, there will not be a heavy frost on Mt. 
McGregor this year. He will be mist j won't his 280 
pounds almost make a rain ? 

Saratoga contains 10,000 inhabitants and in the 
summer season every private house is turned into a 
boarding house of one or the other class, and therefore 
boarding houses abound — no space to mention all of 
them here. 

Next in order comes the Springs, Congress and 
Hathorn. 

EXCELSIOR SPRINGS AND PARK, 

some distance from town, as well as others I shall men- 
tion, you can visit when you take a drive. Washington 
Spring is on the grounds of one of the hotels. Crystal, 
Pavilion, High Rock, Star, Seltzer, Red, A Spring, 
Geyser or spouting spring, Robert Ellis, The Vichy, 
''The Champion Spouting Spring," Hamilton, Putnam, 
Flat Rock, Magnetic, Sulphur, Iron, Diamond, Kissen- 
gen and Patterson, as well as a number of others which 
have been discovered or may have been before this 
reaches you. If, however, you are not satisfied with 
the springs herein mentioned, all I ask is for you to 
visit the ones mentioned, as I did, and accept the cordial 



174 

invitation of each to take a glass, and if you do not 
feel the next day that there are springs enough at Sara- 
toga, your feelings will be different from the sensa- 
tions felt by the writer of this article, by a large 
majority. The drives in this vicinity are numerous. 
The road to the cemetery (which, I am informed by the 
oldest inhabitant, in order to start, they were obliged 
to borrow a corpse from an adjoining county, and now 
a select few who wish to die happy come and are 
decently interred), has been improved, so that the drive 
is very much enhanced thereby. By far the prettiest 
drive, however, is through Broadway from Highland 
iHill for two miles to Glen Mitchell The most fashion- 
able drive is that to the Lake. Immense sums of money 
have been expended to widen and beautify this drive, 
which is loo feet wide and shaded with trees, and is 
sprinkled to lay the dust. Visitors pass up one side and 
down the other. Saratoga lake is eight miles long and 
two and one-half wide. On an eminence on the western 
shore is Moon's Lake House, proverbial for its sump- 
tuous game suppers Parties fond of fishing or boating 
can enjoy this favorite pastime to their full extent. 
Mr. Moon retired some years ago, being succeeded by 
Messrs. Kinney and Foley. Its fitness for aquatic sports 
have been verified by the many events of that nature 
which have taken place on its placid waters since 187 1, 
when the Ward Brothers vanquished two English crews 
selected from the best professional oarsmen of Great 
Britain. Racing is the turf event of the year, and 
cannot be described here, only mentioned. 

Life at Saratoga is two fold— Home and flotel. The 
former is enjoyed by its citizens, who possess some of 
the most luxurious, refined and eleoant houses to be 



1 



175 

found in the United States. Hotel or fashionable life 
is ephemeral in its nature, and, like the beautiful butter- 
fly, its duration is short. In these few brief months, 
wealth, beauty, fashion and other ingredients not so 
desirable, intermingle, and amid the gay whirl and 
excitement of the ball room at night one is in a constant 
ecstacy. From his visit to the springs in the morning, 
promenades or drives in the afternoon, the music, lawn 
sociable and glittering fireworks at night one wonders 
what time there is for nature's balmy, sweet restorer — 
sleep. Anticipating your stay at Saratoga to have come 
to an end, you can depart for Albany any morning via 
Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R., or West Shore 
R. R., which run solid trains to and from Saratoga to 
New York, and New York to Saratoga, Pullman Buffet 
Cars. Some having tickets to New York by rail or 
boat, day or night from Albany or Troy. The general 
offices of all railroads or steamboats and bureau of 
information is in the Adelphi Hotel Building, presided 
over by my genial friend, Mr. C. E. Andrews. I advise 
every one to take the Fall River Line to Boston. If 
you have tickets to Boston via x\lbany, all rail, take the 
Boston & Albany railroad, which is first-class. 

NEW YORK. 

To those visiting New York for the first time, a few 
words of advice may not come amiss. I therefore 
suggest arriving, if possible, by daylight. Every one 
in the city minds their own business— a credit in some 
ways : but some people make it their business to fleece 
the stranger. I would therefore say, keep your own 
counsel. If information be required ask a policeman. 
Upon arrival, take cars or cab, if possible to destination. 



176 

If you desire any of the hotels represented in this 
work, you will always find one or more trusty porters 
at trains or boats. Avoid, if possible, the hacks, unless 
you make a fair square bargain before entering the 
vehicle ; your trunk or valise may accompany you with 
carriage. You will always find upon all trains or boats, 
courteous agents of the different baggage and express 
companies, who will take your check, giving a receipt 
for the same, which relieves you and saves you much 
trouble and annoyance, as their delivery system is 
prompt and their charges a stipulated price ; no 
deviation, except for quantity. 

Something should be said here regarding the metrop- 
olis of the American Continent, but space as well as 
time prevents. As everything seen here is in grandeur 
superior to elsewhere, the impression made upon the 
mind while here will be everlasting. I shall not try to 
befog the mind with as meagre a mention as I am 
capable of giving, but simply refer to the principal 
hotels. The first one at hand is the Grand Union 
Hotel, 42nd street, near the Grand Central Station, 
Money-getting being the chief aim of life, its proper 
expenditure should not prove of secondary importance. 
That travel consumes a much larger portion of our 
finances than it should, is evident from the fact that but 
a few possess the secret of retrenching in that direction. 
Two important factors of expense in travel are carriage 
hire and transfer of baggage ; and that the traveling 
public is more generally becoming disposed to throw 
off their former burden, is patent from the army of 
guests who daily register at and fill the 600 rooms 
(reduced to ^i.oo and upwards per day) at the Grand 
Union Hotel, opposite the Grand Central Station, New 



1 



177 

York City. Its European plan, elegant restaurants, 
cafe, lunch and wine rooms, unexcelled cuisine, 
moderate prices, courteous treatment, unchallenged 
management, coupled with its guests incurring no 
expense for carriage hire or baggage transfer, with 
elevated railway, horse cars and cabs to all parts of the 
city passing its doors,- render the Grand Union one of 
the most desirable of homes for travelers in the city^ 
and also established its success and world-famed 
popularity. 

PLAZA HOTEL. 

Fifth Avenue entrance Central Park. 

While announcing the completion of one of the most 
perfect achievements of hotel art in modern times, and 
its formal opening on October ist, 1890, it is appropriate 
to call especial attention to its peculiar advantages as a 
delightful residence for families and a convenient 
central and accessible resort for the transient tourist or 
business visitor to the city. 

Situated at the centre of city population, on the block 
between 58th and 59th streets, fronting on Central Park 
and 5th Avenue Plaza, it commands charming views of 
both. 

The location is unexceptionable, being accessible by 
5th Aveaue stages, 59th street cross and belt lines, pass- 
ing steamship docks and all ferries elevated and 
surface railroads in the city, within half a block of the 
6th Avenue elevated station where trains are made up 
always ensuring a seat down town. 

Its proximity to the park affords unequalled advantage 
for riding and driving as no rough pavements intervene. 



178 

The building is absolutely fire proof and thoroughly 
lighted and ventilated. Every sanitary regulation and 
every modern improvement in electric and hydraulic arts 
to ensure the comfort, safety and convenience of guests 
are supplied in each department at a lavish expense. 
The culinary and domestic arrangements are models of 
modern attainment. 

The furniture and appointments by the most cele- 
brated makers are of the class used in the finest private 
residences, while the decorations of the public and 
private rooms are not surpassed in ornate elegance and 
artistic taste by any hotel in existence. 

Hygeia — The Plaza Hotel uses water and ice, made 
from vapor, thus avoiding all chance of disease from that 
source. 

The evaporating apparatus and ice machine can be 
seen working on the premises at any time. 

Superior arrangements are made for conductmg the 
hotel on what are known as the American and European 
plans. 

Office staff : Henry W. Riddell, Thomas W. Adams, 
formerly of Windsor Hotel, N. Y. Jesse Hippie, 
formerly of Murray Hill Hotel, N. Y. Ira A. Swan, 
formerly of U. S. Hotel, Saratoga Springs. 

Inspection is earnestly requested and letters of 
inquiry will receive prompt attention, address F. A. 
Hammond, Plaza Hotel, 5th Ave. cS: 59th St., New 
York. 

A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL. 

The Murray Hill Hotel is situated on Park Avenue, 
in New York City, but one block from the Grand Central 
Station. A more convenient hotel site for the accom- 



179 

modation of the newly arrived traveler who would at 
the earliest moment find a home, could not have been 
selected. The house stands upon the highest grade in 
New York, and, of course, occupies the healthiest of 
locations. It is of great size, extending two hundred feet 
on the Avenue, more than two hundred feet on Fortieth 
street, on the one side, and on Forty-first street on the 
other. It is of granite, brown stone and brick, fire-proof. 
When the traveler finds a hotel in every way meeting 
his demand for his comfort, he may honestly praise it . 
while he disparages no other. For New York contains 
many costly structures, whose proprietors severally 
believe that their guests have reason to be satisfied. 
Hotels are not advertised as second class by those that 
manage them. The man who is used to comfort at 
home is perhaps as good a judge as any one concerning 
what constitutes a satisfactory hotel. But, if you 
come to New York in the summer, I recommend you to 
this house, for in all this city there can be no healthier 
place in the warm season. There is a satisfaction felt 
at once upon entrance to this beautiful house. The 
vestibule is apparently just large enough ; the hand- 
some, short flight of marble steps that lead to the office 
seem to be just long enough, the great hall seems just 
high enough to satisfy fully the idea that one has of 
proper architectural proportion. The floor is of marble, 
but not the hideous black and white inset diagonal, 
The Sienna is set against the slate and is a carpet pat- 



I8p 

tern. One rather expects it to be soft and yielding to 
the foot, it looks so like a Wilton. The office is roomy . 
not three or four only, but forty people may range 
themselves along its handsome counter ready to sign, 
in regular order, the register. The bookstand is no 
contracted affair, but space enough is given to allow 
display of, and easy access to, all periodicals and news- 
papers. Everything is on a grand scale, but altogether 
convenient. The great fire-place, which, with its burn- 
ing logs, in winter invites the guest to share its comfort, 
is an attraction that merits and receives enthusiastic 
comment. The electric clock, lighted at night, the 
chandeliers, which at the proper time, because of the 
light touch of a knob somewhere, instantly illuminate 
halls and parlors, have their supply of electricity from 
the great machines in the basement, and the ice that is 
used for any purpose through all the house is made in 
huge condensers there. All the departments seem to 
be at all times in the best working order. All the 
employees seem ever willing to do their best to please 
the guest. There is a painstaking to furnish informa- 
tion when it is asked; if one cleik does not know he 
directs you to one w^ho does. In the matter of meals 
they are ready at all hours. At the time of registry, 
the choice is made between the American and European 
plan, but the restaurants above and below stairs are 
always available. It would be easy for me to compli- 
ment the management and the efficient office staff, but 



i8i 

that g-oes for the saying. As space is limited, I need 
only advise you to give the Murray Hill Hotel your 
patronage once; they will see that you make it your 
home thereafter. 

The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, 
Broadway, one of the largest in the city. It has lately 
been refitted, redecorated and refurnished, and under 
the present proprietors, Messrs. Fayman & Sprague, is 
receiving the patronage its merits deserve. It is run on 
the American and European plans, so that anyone can 
be pleased. Its graded prices, its location and appoint- 
ments, together with the friends one meets here, as it is 
patronized by more Southerners than any hotel in New 
York, make it a pleasant place for tourist or traveler. 
During the past two months the whole hotel has under- 
gone a thorough change in sanitary condition and is 
now pronounced perfect. The new safety Otis Hydraulic 
Elevator, its broad and spacious halls (one is not 
obliged to dodge inside a doorway to allow a porter to 
pass with a trunk, like, many other hotels). I make it 
my home when in the city, and feel confident you will 
be pleased and recommend your friends there after a 
visit, the same as I do you. There was some talk of 
changing the name of this "landmark" on account of 
the thorough change in the hotel and management, 
although I confess it would be applicable to the situa- 
tion, as everything else has been changed, it would be 
better for its patrons to advertise the changes than the 
new name. Therefore, no matter what they call the 
Grand Central, it will please you as -a hotel, and its 
prices are not extravagant. 

While in New York, about the middle of June, I 



l82 

thought it would be a good idea if some one of the 
many merchants in the city were to advertise in this lit- 
tle volume ; knowing that it is not thrown away but 
retained as a souvenir, it will be a perpetual advertise- 
ment ; I called on Dr. W. L. Fleming, "The Cancer 
King," of "The Ariston," Broadway and 55th St., New 
York City, who showed me hundreds of cancers, which 
he removes without the aid of a knife. If this should 
greet the eye of an afflicted one, I feel positive after 
calling and being treated they would look upon me as a 
benefactor as long as they live for putting in my book 
this gratuitous notice. I received in April last from 
him a very neat pamphlet descriptive of cancers, their 
treatment and cure, which will be sent you free, pro- 
vided you mention this book or its author. I also vis- 
ited three of the leading dry goods firms. No. i stated 
that I was too late, they did no summer business. No. 
2 said my price was too high, but as I spend all the 
money I procure from advertisers on the printing of 
books and get my money off the sale, his point was not 
well taken. No. 3 invited me to call next season, which 
I hope to have the pleasure of doing. I would like to 
say here that I published this book and advised the 
advertisers therein to take the space, feeling it would 
bring back to them four-fold what they paid me. It 
will, therefore, afford me pleasure to have you mention 
to any of the advertisers that it was through my solicit- 
ation and this work that you favored them with your 
patronage ; it will do you no harm and benefit me. 

BOSTON 

is one of the most interesting of American cities, not 
only on account of its thrilling traditions and historical 



183 

associations, but for public enterprise and social cult- 
ure, educational and literary facilities. Boston is 
peculiarly Boston, and no one can describe its public, 
private or natural beauties in the space alloted me here. 
The principal sights are Bunker Hill Monument, Fane- 
uil Hall, the Common, Public Garden, Old and New 
State Houses, Public Library, Old and New South 
Churches, Natural History buildings. Agricultural 
buildings. Institute of Technology, New Trinity Church, 
Mount Auburn, Harvard University building, Music 
Hall, the Great Organ, City Hall, Hospitals and other 
sights too numerous to mention here. Trimountain, or 
Three Mountains, as Boston was originally called, is 
a peninsula of about 700 acres, almost surrounded by 
the sea. Its climate in the hottest part of seasons is 
deliciously cool, bracing and invigorating, and it is 
undoubtedly one of the healthiest cities in the world. 
Its harbor, one of the best on the coast, is about twenty 
miles long by eight wide. Its many islands and coasts 
are lined with thousands of delightful summer resorts 
reached by numerous railroads and steamboats every 
hour of the day, forming a panorama of busy life and 
pleasure to be seen nowhere else. Its drives inland 
are none the less interesting and picturesque, whether 
we visit the classic shades of old Harvard, the roman- 
tic walks at Wellesley, or the hundred delightful 
suburban villages, whose well-kept streets, bright 
lawns and elegant gardens simply reflect the elegance 
and taste within the homes of those who have made 
Boston what it is. The excellent horse-car service of 
Boston is one of the best institutions. Nowhere else 
in the country is this important convenience to visitors 
so complete as here. The broad, handsome, open cars 



1 84 

reach all points within ten miles of the City Hall, and 
give visitors a most delightful opportunity to see the 
attractions at the least possible charge. 

Boston, the Capital of Massachusetts, embraces 
Boston proper, East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, 
West Roxbury, Brighton, Charlestown and Dorchester. 
Boston proper, or old Boston, was very uneven in 
surface, and originally presenting three hills, Bacon, 
Copp's, the Fort, the former of which is about 130 feet 
above the sea. The Indian name of this, peninsula was 
Shawmut, meaning "Sweet waters." A narrow strip of 
land called the " Neck " joined the peninsula to the 
main land ; this neck was formerly overflowed by the 
tide, but has been filled in and widened, and. is now 
thickly built upon. East Boston occupies the west 
portion of Noodle's or Maverick's Island. Here is the 
deepest water of the harbor, and here the ocean steamers 
chiefly lie. The wharf now used by the Cunard steam- 
ers is r,ooo feet long. South Boston extends about two 
miles along the south side of the harbor, an arm of 
which separates it -from Boston proper. 

The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. 
John Blackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal 
clergyman, and to have arrived in 1623. Here he lived 
until 1630, when John Winthrop (afterward the first 
Governor of Massachusetts) came across the river from 
Charlestown, where he had dwelt with some fellow immi- 
grants for a short time. About 1635 Mr. Blackstone 
sold his claim to the now populous peninsula for ^30, 
and removed to Rhode Island. The first church was 
built in 1632 ; the first wharf in 1673. Four years later 
a postmaster was appointed, and in 1704 (April ?4th), 
the first newspaper, called the Boston News Letter, was 



i85 

published. The '* Boston Massacre " happened March 
5, 1770, when three persons were killed and five wounded 
by the fire of the soldiers. In 1773 tea was destroyed 
in the harbor, and Boston bore a conspicuous part in 
the opening scenes of the Revolution. The city was 
incorporated in 1822, with a population of 45,000, which 
had increased to 136,881 in 1850, to 177,850 in i860, and 
250,526 in 1870. By the recent annexation of the 
suburbs of Brighton, Charlestown, West Roxbury, etc., 
the population has been increased to 341,919 (in Febru- 
ary, 1876). Population 362,876 m 1880, and 448,447 in 
1890. On the 9th of November, 1872, one of the most 
terrible conflagrations ever known in the United States 
swept away the principal business portion of Boston. 
The fire broke out on Saturday evening, and continued 
until noon on the following day, when it was brought 
under control, but again broke forth in consequence of 
an explosion of gas, about midnight, and raged until 7 
o'clock Monday morning. The district burned over 
extended from Summer and Bedford street on the south, 
to near State street on the north, and from Washington 
street east to the harbor. About 800 of the finest 
buildings in the city were destroyed, causing a loss 
of $80,000,000. 

OBJECTS OF ANTIQUARIAN INTEREST. 

Among "buildings with a history," the most interest- 
ing in the United States, next to Independence Hall in 
Philadelphia, is Faneuil Hall. The famous edifice, the 
" cradle of liberty," is in Dock Square, which also has 
an historical fame, because of the meetings of the 
Revolutionary patriots that were held there. The 
building was erected in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a 



i86 

Huguenot merchant, and by him presented to the town. 
Its original dimensions were loo by 40 feet. Destroyed 
by fire in 1761, it was rebuilt in 1763, and enlarged to 
its present dimensions in 1805. A full length portrait 
of the founder, together with the pictures of Washing- 
ton, by Stuart, of Webster, by Healy, of Samuel Adams, 
by Copely, and portraits of John Quincy Adams, 
Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln and Governor 
Andrew adorn the walls. The basement of the hall is 
a market. The old State House, in Washington street, 
at the head of State street, was erected in 1748, and 
was for half a century the seat of the " Great and 
General Court of- Massachusetts," being the building 
of which such frequent mention is made in revolu- 
tionary annals. It has long been given up to business 
purposes, the interior having been completely remodeled, 
and the edifice surmounted by a roof which has wholly 
destroyed the quaint effect of the original architecture. 
Christ Church (Episcopal), in Salem street, near Copp's 
Hill, is the oldest church in the city, having been erected 
in 1722. It has a lofty steeple, and in the tower is a fine 
chime of bells. The Old South Church, corner of Wash- 
ington and Milk street, is an object of much interest. 
It is of brick, and was built in 1729, on the site where 
the first edifice of the society has stood from 1669. The 
church was used as a place of meeting by the heroes of 
'76, and during the British occupation of the city was 
used as a place for cavalry-drill. It barely escaped the 
flames in the great fire. The Old South Society having 
erected a new place of worship on Boylston street, the 
old building was offered for sale, when a patriotic effort 
among the people originated a subscription for the pur- 
pose of raising funds to secure its preservation. King's 



i87 

Chapel (Unitarian), corner Tremont and School streets, 
was founded in 1686, and the present building, a plain 
granite structure, erected in 1750-54. Adjoining the 
church is the first burying-ground established in Boston. 
In it are buried Isaac Johnson, "the Father of Boston," 
Governor Winthrop, John Cotton and other distin- 
guished men. On the corner of Washington and School 
streets is the Old Corner Book Store, a building dating 
from 1712. The Old North Burying-ground, on the 
brow of Copp's Hill, was the second established in the 
city, and is still sacredly preserved. Here lie three 
fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. Increase, Cotton and 
Samuel Mather. 

THE OLD CEMETERY IN THE COMMON. 

In that corner of the Common bounded by Tremont 
and Boylston streets, and lying directly between the 
Masonic Temple and the Public Library, is an old 
burying-ground, shut off from the Common and the 
streets by an iron fence. It was formerly known as the 
South, and later as the Central Burying-ground. It was 
opened in 1756, but the oldest stone is dated 1761. The 
best known name upon any of the ancient stones is 
that of Monsieur Julien, the most noted restaura?zteiir 
of the city a century past, and the inventor of the 
famous soup that still bears his name. This cemetery 
is the least interesting of the old burying places of 
Boston, and is consequently seldom noticed by the 
stranger. 

There are, according to the directory, nearly two 
hundred hotels in the city. With that fact in view, I 
shall mention, first, the United States. In suggesting 
to intendinp: visitors to Boston the name of the 



^'UNITED STATES HOTEL," 

the proprietor feels satisfied in recommending the house 
for just what it is, no more, no less. I am at home 
when in the United States Hotel ; it pleases me, and I 
am positive it will please you. 

The United States Hotel is one of the oldest and 
best of the well-established hotels of Boston. Its fame 
is wide-spread. Its seal dates back to 1826, and from 
that early date to the present it has been maintained 
up to the best standard, but never better than now. It 
is situated directly opposite the Boston & Albany, 
within two blocks of the Old Colony, and only a short 
distance from the New York & New England, and 
Providence Railroad stations, and is the nearest hotel 
to the retail portions of the city and the great com- 
mercial centers. 

The "United States" is occupied largely in winter by 
families owning their own private residences in the 
adjoining towns, who come into the city and make 
their residence at this famous old house for the winter 
months. During the summer season, therefore, their 
great family rooms are available for tourists, families 
and pleasure parties, giving accommodations that could 
not otherwise be afforded, and so allow guests the most 
extensive variety of rooms at the lowest possible 
charges. During the summer months the rates are 
reduced to $2.50, $3.00 and $3 50 per day, according to 
accommodations, with board ; rooms without board 
$1.00 and upwards, thus giving visitors an opportunity 
of making this hotel their permanent headquarters, 
from which to make daily excursions to the thousand 
places of historical interest with which the city and 
suburbs abound, and to the orreat manufacturing: cities 



i89 

which surround it ; while the fifteen hundred summer 
resorts and boarding houses down the harbor and along 
the coast are available every fifteen minutes by boat or 
rail. Thus the "United States" will be found not only 
a most accessible and convenient hotel on arriving at 
Boston, but will be found equally comfortable and 
economical for permanent as well as transient guests, 
while the facilities for reaching all the suburban local- 
ities and various sea shore resorts are unequaled by any 
hotel in Boston. 

My dear friend, John B. Schoeffel, will, I am glad to 
know, manage this year his summer home, ''Manchester 
by the Sea," the finest resort on the coast. If you have 
time for only a call, take the Boston & Maine R. R., 
Gloucester branch, only 35 miles from Boston. It is 
the summer home of Agnes Booth, John Gilbert, Joseph 
Proctor, Mrs. Bowers, Franklin Haven, Pres. Merchants 
Bank, and a host of others. Beautiful harbor and beach 
bathing nine months in the year, drives unsurpassed in 
America ; therefore if you are looking for the best in 
the land, visit Manchester by the Sea and be happy. 

One of the best traveling companions on a pleasure 
trip is a reliable Railway Guide, and we advise the 
tourist to get the best, as a cheap guide is like a cheaj 
watch — never on time. 

As we hold that this little volume is not thrown away, 
but taken home for future reference, a little advice of 
how to start upon a trip, etc., would not come amiss. 
We say 

1st, Select your route. 2d, Buy your tickets and 
secure your parlor car seats. 3d, Show your tickets to 
the baggage master and have your baggage checked. 
4th, Go to the news stand arid ask for The " Phat 



190 

Boy's" 18 years on the St. Lawrence, or the Pathfinder's 
Railway Guide, as it is the oldest railway guide 
published, and the July number will contain the best 
railroad map ever published. It is the only recognized 
mouthpiece of the Passenger Agents' Association ; one 
can be assured of ^ts reliability. The Phat Boy requests 
his friends to send to them next spring for a copy of 
their summer tours to select your vacation trip.' 
Address, Pathfinder, Boston, Mass. .5th, Don't bother 
the conductor by questions, as he has all he can do to 
attend to his train, and the Pathfinder's official tables 
and valuable maps tell the whole story. 

I have endeavored to describe faithfully and correctly 
the route over which you have passed, dear reader. 
There are, doubtless, some whose knowledge of 
particular points is greater than my ow^n ; to those I say 
most cheerfully, note them down, and forward to me, 
2T Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y., and I assure you, 
they shall have a position in the next edition of this 
work, as my object and aim is to make this a perfect 
guide for any person desirous of making this the finest 
trip on the continent. 

While it has never been published, to my knowledge, 
it is a cold fact that Grover Cleveland paralyzed Dan 
Manning with ingratitude, and last June I received a 
dose of that commodity from the General Passenger 
Agent of the Boston & Lowell R. R. that would have 
paralyzed Cleveland. Therefore I say to my friends, 
whenever you can avoid patronizing that railroad with- 
out injury to the Central Vermont, do so, and you will 
do me the greatest favor of a lifetime. This spring I 
was obliged to make my usual trip and visit all the 
advertising patrons in my books and maps. Meeting a 



friend who mentioned having read of the unkind treat- 
ment dealt out to me by the above railroad, suggested 
that I take a day off and study the railroad geography 
of the country and see if there was not some way 
around, that was just as sure to reach my destination. 
A happy thought, said I, and I was not long in deter- 
mining to take the Fitchburg R. R. via Bellows Falls, 
or Windsor, Vermont, where I made connections and 
arrived in Montreal on time. Therefore I say to my 
friends if you patronize the Fitchburg R. R. between 
Montreal & Boston, may you have as pleasant a journey 
as the subscriber and I know you will never regret it. 

After returning home and resuming the cares and 
position which you left behind for this trip, may you be 
filled with animation, life and health acquired by your 
excursion trip down the St. Lawrence, etc., and the 
pleasant memories of scenes witnessed, wonders visited, 
as well as the beauties of nature revealed, you will have 
double the vigor to prosecute the duties devolving 
upon you, with only spare time on hand to speak to 
your acquaintances and friends, recommending them 
to make the same trip, not forgetting to mention The 
"That Boy's" i8 years on the St. Lawrence River as a 
guide for hotel and all points of interest connected with 
the trip. I will now lift my hat to the tourist and others 
who have made the trip, and bid them a temporary 
farewell. Hoping to see, next vacation, yourself and 
friends, I only say 

ADIEU. 



]SfEW York Qentral 

liciD50N KivER Railroad. 



©REAT 4-TRACK TRUNK L-I^iE, 

© © AND © © 

Tl)e Or)Iy Lipe Ei}berii)^ bl^e Ciby of Ne\^ York. 
THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO THE 

WEST, NORTH-WEST, NORTH and SOUTH-WEST 

Eight Magnificently Appointed Passenger Trains Daily Traverse 

the Empire State between New York and 

Buffalo and the West. 

SCENERY UNEQUALED! 

EQUIPMENT UNSURPASSED! 

(/9a|t\er DraWin|-room, §le6pin| cind Dining ^ars. 

ON ALL EXPRESS TRAINS. 

DIRECT LINE TO NWQflR/I FALLS. 

ALL, TRAINS ARRIVE AT AND DEPART FROM 

^ GRAND CENTRHL STATION ^ 

4th Avenue and 43n(l Sti-eet, New Yoi-k. Largest and Finest Passenger 
Station in America, and the only one in the City of New York. 



Tickets over the New York Central and Connecting- lines can be 
obtained at the following places : 

New York— Nos. 413, 785, 943, 1 Broadway, 12 Park Place, 53 West 
125th Street, 138th Street, and Grand Central Stations. 

IJROOKI.YN— Nos. 333 Washington Street, 72G Fulton Street, and 398 
Bedford Avenue. 

John M. Toucey. George H. Daniels, 

General Manager. Gen^i Passenger Agent. 

GRAND CENTRAL STATION, NEW YORK. 



THe ••• 



DELAWARE & HUDSON R. R. 




THE_ SHORTEST LINE BETWEEN 

nOMTREflL *!iS NEW TORK, 

Selected by the Government as the Mail Route Between 
the Two Cities. 

The scenery along the shores of Lake Champlain, through Lake George, via 
Saratoga, and down the banks of the Hudson, is unsurpassed in the world. 

The only line to the new and superb " Hotel Champlain," at Bluff Point, 
ISl. Y., (Lake Champlain), and to Lake Placid, Saranac Lakes, etc., in the 
Adirondack Mountains. 

For Tickets, Maps, Time Tables, and all Information, apply to 



W. H. HENRY, Ticket Agent, 

Delaware & Hudson R. R., 

No. 143 St. James Street, - - Montreal. 



J. W BURDICK. G. p. Ag't., Albany, N. Y. 



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